The system should have been Âpurged to remove the broken-away particles that occur during any service operation that rattles the pipes. Just as some are caught in the aerators, some are caught in the mixing valves. Anti-scald valves stop HOT water and allow COLD. You will need to open the valves and clean the cartridges Pinoke

Finally able to post an update... unfortunately our phone lines (which include internet) went down for three days only to be followed with the entire house coming down with the flu this week. Andy-- Yes, we have a guage at the pump. We have a 30/50 and the pressure switch seems to be in proper working order. I am told 3/4" plumbing. Justalurker-- the problem was not from day one, it was a gradual occurrence. Everything checked out as far as the way it was plumbed and with the bypass valve knobs. However, when we moved on to removing the element on the sediment filter, our pressure returned to normal. So our plan for tomorrow is to locate and install a 4.5" x 20" big blue with pressure gauges installed before and after... I realized after tonights troubleshooting (and further research on the web) that the existing filter is closer in size to the little blue filter when it should have been the big blue size that you suggested to me in a previous post. Also, after searching "filters" in other posts, I came across this information you posted regarding filter changes: "Filter elements should be changed when the pressure drop across the filter approaches 15 psi not by a calendar. you change the oil in your car according to mileage not months." So I will follow this recommendation unless you suggest otherwise. Thank you for the information on the filters bus driver. It would be great to only have to change our filter every 11 months. I am not sure how much of a need we have for the filter but based on the looks of the element after a month of use, it seems like a good idea. Also, I was told it was a must in our (Florida) location. Thanks again to all... your help and patients is greatly appreciated.

What kind of filter do you have? They will clog up more frequently with a new pool... You builder should have covered this in "pool school" when he showed you how to operate the equipment and what to expect. I backwash/clean my DE filter 4-5X / year. Depending on the size and type of your filter and what gets into your pool, it can be more, or less. Usually when your operating pressure increases by 8-10 psi over your start up pressure, it's time to clean or backwash.

skyclad- Let me again point out that a Pressure Reduction Valve (PRV) should not be buried and the city telling you that lines would have to be dug up sounds entirely bogus. PRV's do not last forever because they have an internal diaphragm that needs to be refurbished periodically (typically every 10 years or so). There is also an adjustment screw that you have to set to get the correct pressure, and sometimes you need to reset it if the supply pressure changes significantly. I'm not saying it's impossible that someone buried it -- in the concrete or behind some sheetrock -- but only an imbecile would do so. You may have a PRV somewhere and just be unaware of it. Or there might not be one, and you will need to have one installed. Finally, when the employee told you 130 PSI was "normal," all that means is that could be the normal supply pressure, not that it would be ok to have that pressure inside the house. Regardless of whether it's 150, or 130 or even 100 psi, as Jake said, you've got to get it adjusted down to no more than 80 psi.