We *almost* ordered from perfect plank - had been in contact with them many times as we were approaching the point where we needed the product. They strongly advise to not order until you are ready to receive and immediately begin your finishing project. We followed their advise, and unfortunately, when it was time to order, they then had an issue with their supplier and couldn't manufacture what we wanted/needed. I was disappointed, but I also respect and understand that it's just one of those things that can happen. I heard about them from GW and we live close enough that we could have gone and picked it up to save ourselves on the delivery charges. Please share with us if you order from them - would love to know the outcome.

FWIW, I agree that lighter is better, although I think it depends both on the size of your kitchen and on your flooring... I do love kitchens where the colors in the island are directly inverse to the colors on the perimeter cabinets. In other words, a blonde wood would be lovely. Have you considered bamboo or Lyptus? I'm putting those out there as an plug for green choices; although, honestly, I'm not sure I'm crazy about bamboo countertops. (For the other greenies out there, I believe coconuts will be available sometime in the next few years as a woody countertop option.) I'm attaching a link to a woodworker who has a good page with pictures of many woods and with a chart (scroll down) that compares the hardness of the woods. Everytime I post a comparison chart it seems like it gets blasted down - they are by nature generalized, and we here on the Kitchen Forum are PPP (pretty picky people - but it's still a useful tool. Good luck, Cate Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Colors and Hardness Comparison Chart

My DH and I DIY'd a large walnut island a while back and used Waterlox. I finished the underside with three coats for several reasons, but not for cupping. Our island is constructed of planks, has a 45" under mount sink and a dishwasher which adds much moisture, plus the 15" overhang. It made sense to finish the underside. I'm very pleased with the the Waterlox finish. I used the original formula, not marine and it has held up to water very well.

I'm also wondering why not Maple? Traditionally, butcher blocks (Like this one) were made of maple and the block was set up so that your working surface was the end-grain which took the chopping. End grain on any type of wood will take the cutting punishment better than edge or face grain. Cherry is soft and Red Oak's grain is too open for this. Even with Tung or Mineral oil sealing it. You want a wood that has a closed grain like Maple. White Oak is certainly more closed grain and more durable than Red Oak but is not cheap. Your contractor is probably specifying Red Oak if price is a factor. If you're using it only for dining and not for cutting on, Cherry will be OK. Define "food Prep", if you're actually cutting on it, the edge-grain cherry will be marked up in no time.