Loose coping means it all goes and gets replaced. There is no patching. If some have broken free, the all will. Chances are the tile wil need it too since chipping the coping often results in chipped tile.

The same holds true for the deck. It also gives you the opportunity to top it with Kool Deck as it bonds best to green cement.

Scott

Dennis--what part of FL are you in
We have pool/lanai that came with house we bought in south of Sarasota FL recently...
lanai patio surface is badly done DIY stamped concrete by prior owners that is crumbling in some areas...very thin in some spots, thicker in others
We are getting estimates on replacing/redoing the surface--don't want to dig up the original concrete patio...
Everyone says use pavers vs a poured solid surface although that is probably less expensive option than pavers...

But now we are finding out (from research) that pavers tend to hold heat...
There is some shade on lanai but patio surface can be hot, hot...

The pavers would be 1" set on sand base and the smaller vs big rectangular pool would get new coping as well...
pool is original to the 70s house but surface is in good shape for now...

We don't have pool here in TX where our full time home is and most people with pools we know have stamped concrete done when pool was installed or cool crete...no pavers so don't have personal knowledge of pavers per se...

What is price difference between avg concrete pavers and travertine? Big difference?
Could we do the area on lanai that is under the roof in pavers since that is shade almost all the time anyway and do area around pool that gets more sun in travertine? Or are the surfaces too different to work together?
Anyone have good website with lots of patterns/products so you can experiment with designs?

@loves2 read. Part of our decking gets direct sun through our screen for most of the day. The pavers have never gotten uncomfortable to walk on.

Tampa area.

ML

Update to original posting: We have now talked with two concrete companies, a pool company and a rep from SunDeck. The first concrete company rep said he could go over everything with 2 inches of new concrete (adding new coping pavers to replace old coping), but all others who've seen the deck suggest that even 2" of new concrete will also crack. The upscale pool company owner said he would break up and remove the old concrete and replace it with light colored white cement pavers (which should remain cool due to light color and white cement and are more cost effective than pumping concrete to the backyard where the pool is). The SunDeck rep said we should break up just the end of the deck that sank and add new concrete, then go over it and all the old cracked deck with SunDeck. He said the new concrete would need to cure for about 6 months before we go over it. Finally, the second concrete company rep said he would just go over the whole deck with new pavers. He would add concrete fines (crumbled bits of concrete) over the lower end, then put on the new pavers, including coping pavers. He also quoted white cement pavers and suggested a light color to keep it cool. This seems to be the most cost effective at about $5800 (our deck is not very large). Finally, our pool maintenance company seems to prefer that we keep the old concrete in place under the pavers. He suggested that removing the old concrete will allow water to pool in places under the new pavers, this can cause some erosion that may cause it to sink in some spots. He also said the concrete (being several inches below grade) will keep the deck cooler. So, that is the direction we are leaning towards. On the question of whether you can put a coating over stamped concrete: we have been told that will not work. The concrete will need to be replaced, or you must go over it with pavers. Hope this is all helpful to those who've been reading!

I have spoken to 5 people who do pavers and other surfaces, two of whom do pool remodeling too. They all said that as long as the pool deck is whole--meaning it isn't really having problems with subsidence/big cracking---that it is better to lay pavers on sand base over the current surface..

First guy from Angie's List who works out of his house gave me estimate for the pool/lanai area that was just $50 off from guy with more tradition presence with storefront/website...
kind of surprised me they were so close

Also surprised me that redoing the driveway which the second guy quoted--which involves removing all the old concrete, taking away the debris, and laying sand/gravel base then driveway pavers (thicker than patio ones)...was going to run about the same price...expected that to be a good bit more from labor if nothing else...

Waiting to have bids from other people...
Are your bidders giving you suggestions for specific brand of pavers?
I want something that is not that slick when wet but that is not so coarse your feet get sore walking on them...
Seems like some companies make pavers that have a surface more like travertine than brick...
Also wondering about sealing--a lighter material could stain more than darker--but don't want a sealer that becomes slippery...
Do you have pool cage--how are they addressing that problem?

Did your guys mention effloresence? the white stuff that leaches from the pavers because of moisture inside the pavers---that can be problem at times but not sure if it can be avoided by buying certain mfg over others...

thanks for giving a detained explanation of your situation
What part of FL are you in?
We are in Nokomis area south of Sarasota--
IF you are interested in travertine--check out Travertine Mart online
apparently some people who post here have ordered from them and they say they have less breakage with their orders...
have read enough to think that for vacation home travertine might have maintenance problems like mold that might start up if we aren't there for longer periods...