xc60 - sounds great - I know just enough to be dangerous. I love this forum. I learn more from it than going to the plumbing showrooms. katmomma, you will have to search this forum for air tubs. I can help you with selecting drop in tubs based on shape, size, quality. You basically want a good quality air tub without the price tag. Mirabelle tubs are well designed, deep and I see that folks on this forum have purchased them as air tubs. They are private label for Ferguson (made by Clarke). I like the feel of their acrylic better than Kohler. I don't see folks talking about Kohler air tubs but they make a solid whirlpool and are priced right. I do not know how the Jacuzzi air tubs are but I personally like their designs - they are priced right for you too. Jason, owned by the former Jacuzzi folks, can get pricey. Same with MTI, Hydrosystems, and Americh. Maax tubs are nice but I see on this forum that folks say that their air tubs are loud.

After having everything purchased by contractor and plumber... The cable-operated drain/overflow valve was installed on our Bain Ultra oval-shaped tub - at the end, where it should logically go. This tub has a 5" rim that we were planning on putting all fixtures on the rim on the one end, not on the corners as it looks awkward. There is now no room to mount the Kohler Memoirs Stately filler in that centred location - it pushes the faucet base out over the tub edge. It is also not long enough to mount on the deck to pour over the edge into the tub. Has anyone dealt with this before or does anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Shari 'n Pete

The Bain Ultra tubs (and I would think most airbubble tubs) are very low maintenance unlike many whirlpool tubs that need monthly cleansing cycles. Resale-wise I think alot of people are looking for a master bath with a tub that does something therapeutic, so I don't think it matters if it's air or whirlpool. If you're not worried about resale, I would say do what you feel is right for your lifestyle. Having the air gives you the choice of using the tub as a soaker or as a therapeutic option if your back is hurting, you've pulled a muscle, etc. With the soaker, soaking is the only option you have. I personally, like to leave my options open. Just my $0.02.

Basically there are two types of waste & overflow kits. If your finished tub will have a 12"x12" access hole,eihter through and adjacent wall or up through the floor from underneath you may use the common waste & overflow kit which has an overflow body with a long tube attached that makes the vertical riser from the overflow down to the Tee. The top of the Tee has a slip joint fitting so the tube from the overflow can be cut to length to fit tubs with different depths. The side opening of the Tee also has a slip joint fitting so the waste arm from the drain shoe can be adjusted for length. (Note: the drain shoe is the casting that fits directly under the tub drain hole) The Tee has an extended tailpiece which then drops down to the P-trap. The rough in fittings are universal however you will need to chose which type of drain stopper you want. They have the cable type, the wire rod type that connects to a lever on the overflow trim cap. a toe kick type which is opened or closed by tapping with your toe, or a lift & turn type that fits in the drain opening and requires lifting and turning it by hand. You will also need to chose which type of finish you want on the metal trim parts to match your tub spout and faucett handles. If your finished tub will be fully skirted and there is no access panel the code requires a "Glue In" type waste and overflow kit. The glue in type kits will have a cast overflow body, a tee, and a cast tub shoe. The installer then custom fits the connecting lines from standard schedule 40 DWV grade pipe and glues it in place. This type of waste & overflow also requires a glue-in type P-trap. These kits are also available with the different types of drain stoppers mentioned above as well as a broad choice of metal trim to match your faucett & spout. The advantage of the glue-in type is that all joints are glued permanent joints so there is little to no chance of a leak once it is installed. Although it is rare today, there still are some local codes that require all metal DWV piping. In those instances there is a tubular brass type waste & overflow kit available that is fitted the same way as the glue in type, but the brass joints are all soldered.