I've never owned a dog with the problem, but if I did I would first have his ears and eyes examined by a specialist. I would suspect his hearing may be overly sensitive for some reason.

I'm dealing with a Shepard/Hound, about 100 lbs., with similar issues. I've had numerous dogs. From the beginning when I brought her home at 4 months, she has been a challenge to train. Typical training techniques that were successful for the other dogs (I have two others) simply do not apply to her. For the past 2.5 years, I've re-written what needs to be done, and still have not gotten her where she needs to be.

Most times, this type of behavior indicates some sort of "trauma". This is my problem. I don't think the dog was beaten, but traumatized mentally. Depending on the dog, this can take many forms. Some dogs do not have any side effects from their past, some like yours and mine, do. Finding the right way to deal with all of this is a huge challenge. I'll tell you what has worked for me, but it's taken a huge amount of patience and time.

*Consider some sort of "appeasement spray". DAP (Dog Appeasement Spray) is an excellent product available through your vet, you spray it on the dogs chest in severe cases and rub it in. It reminds dogs of a scent female's emit when they were pups to calm them. This should be effective, but, it may also not be. You should see results within a few minutes.

If this is not an option, consider a "calming collar". There are numerous things available through your vet or in pet shops.

Given the severity of the situation, you might also consider consulting with your vet and asking for a very mild sedative or some sort of anti-anxiety medication. I had to use anxiety meds for about 6 months.

Using the pinch collar is a huge mistake, it's adding to the problem, causing the dog pain.

*You need to completely re-think how you are dealing with your dog. When talking to him, do so in a very soft voice. Raising your voice in any way is just not the way to go. You could wind up dealing with submissive peeing or worse. Research behavior trauma on the internet, this will educate you and give you numerous ideas.

*When you look at the dog, avoid eye contact. Look at his nose, forehead or mouth. Direct eye contact is a threat.

*Consult with a Sheltie rescue league in or close to your area. Google should be able to help you with this. Lots of times they offer free advice or can put you in touch with someone who knows how the dog is wired. If this is not an option, tell your vet you need to find someone who can help you out in this department.

*When you start to make progress, go very slowly and build on this. Trying to make things happen to quickly also adds to problems. I have taken what I refer to as "itty bitty baby steps" dealing with my dog.

Good luck!

SG

Watch some Dog Whisperer, he deals with this kind of problem quite often. Buy a DVD if he isn't on any channels in your area.

What Cesar(The Dog Whisperer) has found is that trying to reassure a stressed dog usually has the opposite effect. It usually winds up reinforcing the unwanted behavior. The handlers attitude/emotional state during the situation also transfers to the dog---and anxious handler results in an anxious dog.

What you can try to start is to take the dog out the door to the garden---just outside. Stand/sit with the dog on a leash. Pay no attention to what the dog does---close proximity to the door inside should result in the dog sitting by that door. By paying no attention, I mean no talking to the dog, do not look directly at the dog, and think calm thoughts---enjoy the weather/yard/whatever.

At some point, the dog will relax---you need to know what signs it gives---ears drooping, lying down, eyes closed, jaw slack, tongue exposed----obvious signs of relaxation.

Wait several minutes to allow that relaxation and then simply reach down and pet the dog---you do not even have to say anything.If that causes tension---repeat until petting does not change the attitude for the worse.

Do that for several days and gradually increase the distance from the door.

Dogs do not reason how to get out of a stressful situation, they react to their environment. If that environment increases the stress, thay become more stressed. Owners/trainers/handlers can affect the state of mind of a dog by their own emotional state---calmness breeds calmness.

Humans can show love to a dog by simply being around the dog, they do not have to talk in any manner. A touch, calm tone when talking all have more impact than other forms of interaction.

For instance, I have a rescued Rott/GSD mix male. He was on the verge of being siezed by the local police and euthanized as a danger to society. I took him and in six months, the police officer who was involved swore he was a different dog. Nost of that change was with achieved with little speech and a lot of assertive posture without touching(early on if I would have touched Max in correction, he would have bitten me). When he needed correction, I simply stood up and backed him into his 'cave', the spare room with his crate, and stood until he relaxed. Never spoke, never looked directly at him, and never touched him. Once he relaxed and several minutes had passed, I simply left. A couple months of that and I could correct bad behavior with a grunt or 'No'.

My new neighbor has a Shih-tzu---cute little dog. But it has no manners and little training(not a problem since they owners do not require much and it is not a problem). But, she talks to the dog in baby talk. Fine, but when she tried that with Max, he simply walked off. She thought the dog did not like her----I had to explain Max had no idea she was addressing him---no one ever talked to him in that manner. Once she talked in a calm manner, Max returned her attention.

Now I have a rescued whippet mix with a huge lack of self confidence. It took threeks to get her to not fight the leash---I started by sitting in the house with the leash on her and simply sitting. Then I stood. Then I walked three steps---tightening the leash(simple choke chain collar) and standing until she sidled to me. Never said a word, never looked at her until she complied and relaxed. Then a pet or
three and calm 'Good Girl' She still has issues with leading, but not nearly as difficult. We go to the vet and she leads quite well.

All that is to simply illustrate how being calm and resisting the normal human to human communication works much better when working with a dog.

I agree with all of the previous post's. But, keep in mind that you are searching for a way to fix the problem. What might work for me and others here, might not be right for your dog. Understanding how your dog is wired and what he is responding to is very important.

As for good 'ol Cesar (The Dog Whisperer).

He does have some good advice. He also has a show. Keep in mind that when you watch his tapes, he has a whole staff of people helping him. He makes it look quick and easy, which has cause me lots of grief.

I've dealt with more than one human who does not understand why fido is still peeing and pooping all over the house, even though Cesar has given specific instructions (BTW, it IS easy, just lots of work to house train a dog). Total confusion ensues lots of times, and fido and humans are forced to completely back up and start all over in the potty department which takes nine months. Not always a pleasant thing when the dog has grown and matured and should be well on its way to being weaned from the crate, and the humans have put so much work into the process, only to see failure.

Good luck!

SG

Yes, the time involved does not register on CM's shows---sometimes rehabilitation takes months.

Okay here goes - I am an owner of a super chicken in a dog suit. In fact when people ask me his breed, that is what I tell them. Add hearing sensitivities and most walks or camping trips turn out to be just long car rides.
First off, throw away the pinch collar, you are adding stress and pain to an already stressful situation. You can buy harnesses which will help more than a pinch collar. People say well put it around your arm, it does not hurt at all - but it does not go around your dogs leg, try it around your throat sometime and you will rethink it quickly.
Second - stop coddling your dog. No more talking to it in a sweet voice - you are inadvertently reinforceing your dogs skittish behavior (us humans want to fix things this way and for other humans it usually works, for dogs - forget it).
Next kudos to you for leaash walking your dog. it may be a tough road to hoe, but keep it up, even a couple of minutes out there will be good - Try and end on a positive note.
Next - is your dog food oriented?? Let him outside your fenced back yard, hide some pieces of Natural balance meat sticks around your back yard. Close the door and go hide behind something so your dog can not see you. It is best if your dog does not see you hiding the treats either.. just put a couple of diced pieces of meat sticks in a cheapo plastic strage container. I think at least 5 containers should do it. Lets hope they get his interest.
Next - go get yourself a doggie backpack. You can find them on line - check craigslist and ebay if you have trouble finding one locally. You will want to put only one bottle of water -regular 8 ounce in each side, nothing bigger, put the pack on, grab the other dog - this will help your sheltie stay calm, the other dog does not react to ANYTHING, YOU DONT REACT TO ANYTHING - just keep on walking. Dont let your dog boss you around.
Next - try and find a dog park or go to the training class you attended and ask if they will let your dog socialize with some of the other dogs before or after training (if someone has a really energetci dog and you guys can find a place where your dogs can play safely together, you will be helping each other out, since a tired dog is easier to train.
Don't give up. Promise collars should not be used alot in your dogs case. You might try it for awhile, but take it off after a bit, like crate training it should be used sparingly. This is going to take perseverence and patience on your part. Have your pup i a sit stay before you go walkies, take some natural balance meat sticks - diced up in small cubes for rewards...no need to say anything to your dog. If he starts bolting or stopping, just keep on walking - pretend you are deaf. Your dog will so get it that there is nothing to be afraid of. Good luck and pleaase repost I would like to know how you guys are doing. Also, if you can find a fly ball, or sheep training or some other type of dog agility to put your dog through, he will do much better - his brain just needs to focus...thats all.

"I took him to an obedience class"

Did you go to one class? ... are you still attending? I would talk to the instructor.

Ironically every obedience class I've attended, the instructors dogs were Shelties. One very smart dog!

When Sheltie's were really popular they suffered from questionable breeding. I would suspect that one of the parents is very timid. Purebred means you can check their lineage and have some idea what they look like.

Saying that, my middle sheltie, was just like her mother. I knew it was questionable breeding but my son was determined to get another dog. He went along and viola we had a puppy! Her mother was very timid and her dad was a goofball. HA! So I knew we could have a shy dog. She was very shy/timid. She was also one of the smartest dogs I've had. But she was my dog and only really minded me, and did not like going with anyone else.

You need to make him look forward to going outside. Buy a harness so you are not choking him while he struggles when he's out. Then I would get some kind of food that he will just drool over, such as rotisserie chicken. Shelties aren't nose driven (i.e. hounds) so it takes something really good to keep their attention. My shy sheltie was a very picky eater. She hated dog treats and was very picky about what human food she would eat.

So before feeding I would put both dogs on a leash to go outside. The idea is you want them hungry. Before going outside I would make a big deal about going out to have a cookie, bite, whatever you want to call it. Then take them out and take turns feeding each one a nibble (very small bites) of food. Start with the other dog. You want to keep his mind on the fact that the other dog might get more than him. Plan on feeding them quite a bit. Each time you feed say your "word". Example: Lassie, do you want a cookie?!! Be upbeat and when they are done, pet them, telling them "what a good dog" and bring them back in the house. You want him to associate "the word" with the food and actually look forward to going outside. Don't try to make him do other things. Just do this one simple exercise then return to the house. Depending on how he is doing, you can probably take just him out around the fourth day. Once you have at least a week, maybe more, depending on how he's acting, then put something else in the mix. Just have him at the state where he wants to go outside and eat his "cookie" before you add anything else.

You should find that shelties can easily pick up tricks in a few days with very little effort on your part. Just be consistent and use the same hand motion and word for each trick/command.

Start with the "cookie" then feed a few bites and then walk him around. Use the "cookie" as enticement. You're trying to keep his mind focused on you. Don't let him pull at the leash. STOP and make him sit. Use your "cookie" to get his attention. Each time he pulls stop and go back through the sit routine.

The goal is to make him like going outside. So use the harness to take him out to do his business. But don't mix the two together at first. So for now just harness put on a leash and stand out with him kind of doing what you've been doing. Eventually when you get to the walk, stop, treat session, then you can throw in going to the potty. Hopefully, he will be less stressed by then and it will get easier for the dog and you. If he does happen to go, I would definitely praise the dog. You'll always have a timid dog, but he if you can get him to look to you it will help with his fears and help with your problems. By keeping him on a leash when he's "doing his business" you can keep him from running off at every little sound he hears. The goal is to eventually change the running behaviour so you won't have to leash.

With the weather being what it is, I feel for your predicament. Saying that, my first sheltie was a prima dona. She didn't like getting her feet dirty. She didn't like the rain. So it was always a problem to get her to go outside when the weather was nasty.

Purebreds in gen are messed up, every one of them from Grate danes to pugs has risks for some type of abornomality

My guess is instinctively this dog knows its a runt/weakling and will always be a High stress/High fear dog. Hopefully he can be helped but if not putting to sleep may be the kindest thing. As pet owners its our job to not have pets suffer fear or pain. only do it as a last resort though.

Purhaps the best thing- tough love- would be to tie him out with food and water, on a warm sunny day so he gets used to outside..

Sorry but don't listen about putting your dog to sleep. He basically has a bad habit that needs to be changed. They tend to be very smart dogs, so with a little work on your part, you should be able to change this behavior. The reason I am saying that is you said he was frightened at class, but seemed to overcome the problem with time.

Is your yard fenced? I wonder if he became frightened by another animal. Right now we have coyotes in our neighborhood. Basically the coyotes have wiped out the outdoor cat population. I don't allow my dog to go out with me to get the paper in the early morning because of the coyotes.

I don't agree that purebreds in general are more messed-up. Actually with pure breeds you have a good idea of what characteristics you are getting. Mutts can have the good and bad traits of each breed.

As far as your dog being a runt, you need to check on the actual stats for a sheltie. He may have been the runt of the litter, but actually is probably in confirmation for size. Most shelties you see are actually too large. I grew up with a multitude of animals, both tame and wild, and the only problem with runts is they had a tendency not to get their share of food. Therefore, they were sometimes taken back to the house and bottle fed.

I'm not talking about.. "Reputable breeders", they are not as at fault as other breeders. I'm talking about the pet store purebreds or the ones you see in the paper- these FAR outweigh the population of "purebreds".

Whenever you limit breeding population size or control breeding you end up with issues.. take the Lions in Gur park in Asia for example- the last Asian lions., decended from 13 lions, the population is now about 400, and so inbred sons mate with moms or daughters , moms mate with sons, fathers mate with sisters... ect. Science thinks the population will die off in another 40 years or so because there's just not enough new blood to help.

Take note that these are also wild animals that are being tested and fighting for survival from tigers and other predators-our dogs don't even have that pressure- unless you count the breeder- if its a good one- some breeders don't even care how many dogs they produce.

Only PTS as a last resort... try everything you can at first.

I have no advice better than what was given. Or to seek the services of a board certified Veterinary Behaviorist to help. A Behaviorist is a veterinarian with an extra 4 years of training, so s/he can prescribe a behavior modification program and also anxiolytic medications if needed. When a dog has a phobia, I believe that is outside the realm of simple training, and into the realm of experts.

I wanted to see the picture of the pure bread shelty; I was picturing a gingerbread cookie in the shape of a sheltie in my mind LOL!

I hope everything can be done to help this dog. But we should put the quality of life before anything else.

quick question...does your dog react differently to being outside during different seasons and or night time, or is this an occurance that takes place anytime the dog is outside?
How you answer this will make a huge difference on what may be going on with your dog.

Sorry that I mentioned about putting your dog to sleep, it was mean and unwise.... I do hope you can cure her problems

My beagle was (IS!) a huge chicken. She is now brave enough to stand in the yard and listen to the noise instead of barreling head first into the sliding doors with her tail tucked, but she's still a little scardey cat.

What has helped us the most in helping her progress, is exactly what others have said, no coddling her at all. On walks if she is scared and pulling to go back, we keep going forward. No talking to her, no looking at her, we just went.

She walks well 95% of the time now - she isn't afraid of the water grates, or cars, or strollers or trees or leaves or anything anymore.

She is also better in the yard with the wind and noises - and in the house she is much better. She used to be TERRIFIED of water bottles, the vacuum, garbage bags, boxes, paper towel tubes - really, you name it, she was scared of it. We just stopped coddling her, and we made a point to expose her to everything she was afraid of, as often as possible. We'd shake a garbage bag and she'd run, then we'd lay it on the floor, if she came near it and sniffed at it, we'd praise her.

Someone also once told me dogs need to know you are in charge and are in a position to protect them. And I believe this - each and every time something scares her, and nothing happens to her because we're there, the better she gets.

The other day I hopped in the shower and almost instantly she started barking and screaming like I have never heard - so I rushed out, thinking someone was breaking in, or on fire or something - someone was loading a HUGE flat bed truck with stuff and it frightened her - the second I walked in the room, she settled and stopped panicking. I didn't even say anything to her, or touch her. She just quit. She knew her 'leader' was there, and she was safe.

I agree with Munkos