Hi Scrappy, Turning the sink around enabled the disposal and drain trap to be in a single plane. If the drain had been at the back, the trap would have had to go either left or right, and would have interfered with the deep drawers and garbage cans. I'm out of town so can't measure the sink, but I'm pretty sure the depth is 10" (excluding the depth given by the countertop). We installed the Badger compact disposal. I am on septic, so it gets very light use. Yes, I think the same set-up could be accomplished with a 30" sink. If this is your main sink and you have a DW, keep in mind that you will have to allow for the connection of the DW to the drain. The hose might interfere with one of the pull-outs. Sorry, my contractor has moved to Florida.

@davidro1, I'm not concerned with the pop-up mechanism at all. I was concerned with the pop up housing being level with the drain line. I was worried that if water stayed in the pop up housing, that the housing might be prone to leaks (at the point where the ball and rod go into the drain pipe). I was also concerned with any code issues. I remember reading somewhere that there is a maximum allowable distance the p-trap can rise from the low point to the drain line. I assumed that reversing the j-bend would result in too much of a height difference to be code compliant (I'm still assuming this, since nobody has chimed in on this issue). However, more than the legality of it all, I really just wanted to know what bad consequences might happen as a result of reversing a j-bend. @jimsonburg, Thanks for the SPAM. Not. @homebound, I was concerned about the connections. The waste arm has the flared tip, but it doesn't seem so different from the plastic washer thing that goes in the tailpiece. I've went ahead and reversed the j-trap, and everything fits fine and feels really solid. I filled up the sink, drained it all at once, and there are no leaks. I've even opened up the pop up housing (where the ball goes in) and to my surprise, there is no standing water in there (the water line sits just below that). I'll keep an eye on it to make sure nothing leaks. If it does, I'm sure we'll notice it right away, before there's any major damage. Aside from a few bottles of cleaning supplies, we don't really use the cabinet under the sink, so maybe I'll just leave an old aluminum lasagna pan down there. At least that way, it'll catch any leakage should any occur, and it will alert me to any leakage by amplifying the sound of any drips.

Thanks Bruce. Your comment was helpful. It gave me a hint to look into the kind of fitting I have there and it seems it is a push fitting like here:https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-dia-90-Degree-Male-Elbow-Push-Fitting/50284269 But I noticed a surprising thing today. Yesterday night I had shut down the water supply under the sink and confirmed that no water was flowing from the regular tap and filter tap. But today morning when I checked, water is again flowing out from both the taps normally without changing the supply knob and water is not leaking from the airgap hole also. So, not sure what's going on. But it doesn't make sense. I guess, I will not touch the drain tube for now until the leak starts again. Thanks.

It depends on what you mean by "fix" and how bad the damage is. I could probably get a Blanco chip to be a bit more inconspicuous, but finish matching isn't happening. The Cambria can be repaired, but the quality of the repair depends on the location of the chip, the color, particulate (if any), and/or "movement". Pictures please.