sewer gas usually smells like rotten eggs. Did you put a cloth in the drain to when the toilet was removed? Run your water so the p trap can fill with water and block the gas coming back up in the tub and sink. What water was there proba bly evaporated after weeks of no activity.

Our tile guy stuffed some plastic in the drain pipe while the toilet was removed. I'll run all the water tonight and see what happens. Thanks for the idea.

It is likely that your P traps are dry. Just run the water for a few seconds to re-fill. If the smell does not go away then get down on the floor and stick your nose near the floor where the toilet is mounted. If it is a bad fit on the wax ring you will know it. But I'm 99% sure its your P traps that have dried out. I have a basement bath that does not get used much and I run the shower for a few seconds once a week to prevent just what you are experiencing.

I think we can easily rule out dry traps. The post states that they removed the toilet but there is no mention of removing the tub or lavatories to install the new tile. If such is the case then the water would have remained in the tub and lavatory traps. Typically it would take at least 5 or 6 weeks of no use for the water in those traps to dry out, and the water in those traps would automatically refill the first time those fixtures are used again.

The toilet trap is built into the base of the toilet and there is no trap on the line under the toilet. The water in the bowl is actually the trap water for the toilet and the toilet tank refill valve has a trap primer line that feeds a small amount of water into the top of the standpipe and down to the bowl during the tank fill cycle. Therefore if DH turned the water on and the toilet tank filled the toilet trap is also filled.

What is more likely is that the new tile built up the finished level of the floor above the height of the closet flange. This would then leave the top of the flange flush with or slightly recessed below the level of the new floor tile. This condition is strictly prohibited by the plumbing codes.

Per code specifications the underside of the closet flange is supposed to rest in firm contact with the finished floor, which then leaves the top of the flange approximately 3/8" above the level of the floor.

Understanding that physically moving the flange can be an expensive proposition they make a "Buildup Flange" which is simply a flat plate of PVC in the exact shape of the flange top. The closet mount bolts are installed in the existing flange in the conventional manner, then the build up flange is laid on top of the existing flange as a spacer. (The underside of the buildup flange has a rubber gasket to seal it to the existing flange.) The buildup flange will now extend the height of the flange above the new tile in the code prescribed manner. The toilet is then set on top of the buildup flange with a wax ring in the conventional manner and as the closet bolts are tightened they hold the buildup flanged sandwiched in place between the existing flange and the underside of the toilet bowl.

You can usually find the buildup flanges in Lowes, HD or your local hardware store for about $10 or less. If not, check with a local plumbing supply house and they will have them in stock.

Be careful here though. Be sure you get a build up flange and not a repair flange as they are somewhat different. I would not wholeheartedly trust the knowledge of those working in the home supply house to know the difference so if in doubt go to your plumbing supply house and explain what your problem is and they will know exactly what you need. Also, You will need to lift the toilet to install the buildup flange and wax rings are not reusable so be sure to grab a new wax ring when you get the buildup flange.

NOTE: They make a double thickness wax ring and many people will tell you that it will work but that is not true. Be sure to get a buildup flange and install it as described above and your problem will be solved.