Interesting thread. I have an 11 y.o. frigidaire that has had the same issues listed in this thread. After defrosting the ice maker one too many times, we bought a new one through a parts dealer on ebay. The shape/style of the ice maker purchased after-market was a bit different, but we've had zero problems with the ice maker since (knock on wood). Also had a temporary problem with the temperature and found it to be what Kaseki mentions a few posts above. In our case, keeping the refrigerator side cool, requires keeping certain pathways free- we found those particularly to be in the back of the shelf under the ice maker on the freezer side, and on the top shelf in the fridge side- so that must be where the circulation takes place. We have to keep that middle shelf in the freezer loosely packed with nothing pressed all the way to the back, or there goes the temp in the fridge side- just the way it's designed, but sheesh. I'd be especially frustrated if I didn't have a deep freeze in the garage and depended on that freezer for more packed/long term storage. Wayne, I'd try to get the contents of the fridge and freezer down to a minimal level and away from the back of the interior-- and see if doing that allows more circulation and hence the fridge cabinet cooling to a greater extent. Also, keep in mind that if you are opening the door frequently to check the air temperature, you can get misleading readings. We used a high quality mercury thermometer placed in a glass of water in the refrigerator- this gives you an accurate reading of what the contents of your refrigerator are being kept at. This morning I had the door open for a while to clean the shelves, so the air temperature in the refrigerator had increased somewhat, but the temps of the milk/meat/etc. didn't have a chance to rise much before the cabinet cooled again.

OK we have the Electrolux Icon, (key word is Icon) to find that cooktop on the Electrolux web-site. Mine is the 30 inch model E301C75FSS4. We Absolutely Love it. Really fast, completely quiet (even thou it has a fan it has never come on--even with 3 burners going--alto not on high). We just can't recommend it enough, alto keep in mind we have only been using it a week or 2. Based on our other 3 Electrolux products that we have had for 3 years---we expect the cooktop to be as trouble free as those. I Think some folks don't believe the Electrolux is a Premium brand as Sears now sells them. When we bought the other 3 Electrolux) appliances They were not sold by Sears. When we bought the appliances for our kitchen, We completely ignored price Waited 30 years for this kitchen and figured waiting that long---we deserved what we wanted--(Ya Think?).So we are thrilled by all four Electrolux appliances now. Gary

In your TOP VIEW picture the two white rectangles are valves that turn to bypass the appliance. Right now, they are both pointing to the control valve. That is the in service position. Turn both white rectangles 90 degrees so they point at each other. That is the bypass position. In that position no service water will enter the appliance. Living on a well requires some learning and maintenance and responsibility because you don't just want the water nice you have to make the water SAFE. Get a water test from an independent lab. An independent lab has no agenda and won't be trying to sell you water treatment equipment. Go to http://www.epa.gov/safewater/labs/index.html to locate a certified lab near you. This is a MUST DO because without it everything is a guess. A quickie water test from Sears or a water softener company won't be as accurate (and possibly not as competent) as from a certified independent lab. Hit the Yellow Pages and call at least three local water treatment pros. Make sure you call at least one of the big dogs like Kinetico or Culligan for comparison and at least a couple independent pros. DON'T TELL THEM YOU HAD YOUR WATER TESTED. Give each an opportunity to offer suggestions and provide you with a quote to meet your water treatment needs. IGNORE ANY THAT DON'T TEST YOUR WATER THEMSELVES as they can't speak intelligently to water treatment without knowing what needs to be treated. Ask lots of questions. Softening the entire house or just the water heater (IMO a bad idea)? Warranty, parts & labor or just parts, how long and on exactly what? Install, permits required, licensed plumber? Routine maintenance and costs? Do they stock parts? Response time for emergency (water leak) calls? If they don't explain things to your satisfaction that is a good indicator of how you'll be treated after the sale. After they've gone use your water test to compare with theirs. Are all your treatment needs being addressed? Ask your neighbors if they have any water treatment experience. They might tell you who's good or who to avoid. Come back here and post the specific recommendations and hardware components with the costs and we'll give you our opinions.

Jeannie, I'm sure the Culligan will serve you well. Salt (NaCl) in any form... chunks, pellets, or blocks used as a regenerant is not conducive to happy plants. The higher the hardness of your water the more sodium ions are exchanged into the water to make it soft. You should GOOGLE watering plants with softened water and read for yourself. The alternative to using hard water for your plants and pond is to use Potassium Chloride (KCl) as a regenerant but it has gotten a lot more expensive in the last 5 years. One 40lb bag of NaCl is about $4 pretty much everywhere and a 40lb bag of KCL can be $12 to $25 depending on how bad the local stores want to gouge their customers. With you and maybe one other person in your house you'll probably be using less than one bag of whatever you choose a month so 12 bags of NaCl = $48 and 12 bags of KCL = $144 so about an extra $100 a year not to harm your plants isn't such a big expense. My wife loves her plants so we choose KCL and just consider the extra expense the cost of having plants.