You either have a vegitable sprayer or at least the facuet is desighned for adding one. Someone has improperly reassembled the facuet during repair causing the diverter to activate eventhough spray hasn't been depressed. Look up parts online useing brand plus model # to see how the diverter is positioned in facuet body.

That's a tough one. First off, did he supply the fixture or did you? Either way I would contact the store where it was purchased or American Standard right away. Hopefully, you still have the packaging it came in and have the guarantee info. They will likely replace the faucet, but I doubt they would cover the labor to do so. That is a fairly low-end faucet, so it's possible it's defective. And, depending on what he has to do to replace the faucet (i.e., whether he has clearance behind the sink to easily remove the old one and install the new one, or whether he will have to remove the sink), $75 is not unreasonable. However, if the guy is a crook, he could have installed faucet he knew was bad, just so he could charge you again for another one (an old trick). And, if it's just a matter of popping off the supply hoses, spinning off a nut and swapping in a new faucet, then $75 does seem a little high. It's impossible for us to say. Did he come recommended? Did you verify he has a license? Can you check with you local BBB or consumer's affairs agencies to see if he has had other complaints? Unless you have strong feelings or evidence that he's definitely a fly-by-night crook, I'd probably trust him at his word. Better yet, though, why not do it yourself and save the bucks? Replacing a faucet is a fairly straight-forward DIY job, though you may need a special tool or two, such as a basin wrench. Check the link below for a how-to. Lowes rates it a "beginner's" job. Here is a link that might be useful: How to replace a faucet

This is an old thread but it helped me. We had a leak under the kitchen sink, somewhere. There's a leak it turns out on the hose for the sprayer. 'kind of where it forms a 'U' near the weight. We have a Kohler K560 CP. (one handle for hot and cold) For some stupid reason I shut off the hot and cold valves under the sink. But it was nice that after 3 years they were not frozen at all. So im using a bucket under the leaky line until I get the replacement hose. ANYWAY, when I turned on the valves and the faucet, hot did not work at all, and cold worked normal. And then I lost some pressure on the cold. So I eventually tried what was recommended in this thread. I shut off the hot valve under the sink and I detached the hot line at the valve point and put it in a bucket. The cold valve was open, and I opened the cold full blast at the sink and held my hand tight over the faucet tip. I did that a few seconds. I was glad to see water and sediment had shot out of the hot line into the bucket. I reattached the hot to the valve and opened the valve. Both hot and cold water flow were restored. So I haven't flushed out the cold line because I dont want to break what isnt broken. :)

OK, i take it back. 1st. Before the copper pipe in the house, you may have galvanized pipe outdoors. The municipality has to replace it. ( "... i think its more a problem from the street as neighbors complain as well..." ) If the entire house was a low-flow (or low pressure) problem, this is the cause. It will be felt as a low pressure problem because of the restricted flow. This is called dynamic pressure. But before you turn on the tap, the pressure might be (static pressure). A pressure mater is inexpensive, easy to get at a hardware store, and easy to install. It will help you identify your problem more clearly. Or, you could just ask the city to change the supply pipes, since you and several neighbors all have the same problem. You have to let a fairly large quantity of water flow, in any case, to get really hot water to the sink "for cleaning pots and pans" The need is to get Hot Water to the kitchen. This does not depend on the 1st thing above. If the flow and pressure are low, it will increase the time you have to wait. But nothing will change this for the better. Except one thing: new city supply pipes (outside). The Distance between the kitchen and the hot water source is what determines the amount of wasted water before you get hot water. That, and whether the pipe is 1/2" or 3/4". Where is your tank? It is normal for the first several seconds to feel warm water, not hot. This is because the heat is being lost to the pipe at first. Once the pipe itself gets warmed up, the water temperature at the faucet is much higher. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: pressure versus volume, in 3/4in. or 1/2in. pipe