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Pentair DE filter and pressure issues

15 years ago

My Pentair 4060 DE filter has been driving me crazy for 5 years. I'm hoping it's not supposed to be this hard, but it's my first pool so who knows?

Quick specs: 10,000 gallon pool/spa, pentair heater, 2hp pentair whisperflo main pump, 1.5 HP whisper spa pump, pentair DE filter 4060.

Here's the thing. My DE filter has almost always leaked from the backwash pipe. As the pressure increases the leak increases. At a starting pressure of 20psi it usually doesn't leak, but as it approaches 30psi after a few weeks or so it's drip.. drip.. drip. The leak gradually worsens. Replace the o-ring then start the cycle over again. IMO the backwash design is pretty bad. It's just an o-ring that is keeping it sealed and this o-ring must see some friction and grit when you move the backwash valve back and forth.

Maybe 2HP is too high for the system. Maybe the filter is too restrictive. Maybe my return system is too restrictive. I'm not sure which. One symptom I do notice, aside from the leak, is that at about 28psi (and above) the amount of water flowing through the system drops tremendously. It'll take forever to warm up the pool or spa. Anyway, it's o-ring time again and I don't want to repeat the cycle if I don't have to. Would I be better served by replacing the DE filter with a higher quality unit (if they exist)? Maybe I can downsize the main pump to 1.5HP? I guess that would lower the operating pressure, but won't it also move less water?

I could use some advice. If I need equipment replaced I'm going to hire a pool repair person to come out and take a look at everything, but I would like to understand what I'm in for first.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

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Comments (4)

poolguynj
15 years ago
3/4 HP is all you need. You have a small pool.

When were your grids last hosed off?

Is the fabric in the grids stretched tightly or is the fabric somewhat loose on the panels?

Those pressure numbers seem high for what you have. Over the years, the pressure exerted in the filter can stretch the fabric, making contact on each side of the panels, closing off return flow on seemingly clean grids.
repair_guy
15 years ago
It's not "just an o-ring"...

It's a spider silicone seal. It leaks because the fiulter tank mold is a piece of crap. This filter is known to leak pretty much within a year. You can pull the rotor valve and replace it but it will leak again real soon. With that timeframe, you should call Pentair and give them the serial number to verify production date. In a January period around that timeframe, they produced many units before realizing the mold was out of spec.

The filter still is made poorly and the tolerances for that valve are always out of whack. If the tank has not cracked yet, and it will, wait until it does and then repalce the filter. I would not dump any money into repair for a rotor seal. Just glue on a ball valve to the waste line and stop the leak that way.
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As a point of clarification, the filter is reading approx 25 psi. That is higher than normal and further impedes the ability of the system to process through enough water volume. Even after hosing off the grid, with a clean grid the system still cannot pull through enough volume to drive the pool cleaner. So this indicates that the grid MIGHT be clogged with scale. That is the recommendation of the pool guy, simply replace the grid even though there are no tears or breaks. My 2nd option is to clean the grid with a scale cleaner such as TSP tri sodium phosphate which is what Pentair suggested. With respect to the pump "bowl or pot" being half full. You think it is debris? I have cleaned the basket strainer and checked for debris but I cannot find any. How would I get a better view of the impellar or system to see if anything is in there causing the problem? Is the debris most likely in the impellar or somewhere else? Maybe one of those Roto-Rooter guys with the camera at the end of the hose might help! Thanks for the guidance so far. BT
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Thanks again for the repsonses. Now, I have a couple of additional questions. Where do I check the Venturi Nozzles. My spa jets are the adjustable type which can be turned counter-clockwise to turn compeltely off or turned clockwise to fully open. They also have two types of heads, a spinner with two jets and a single jet that can be adjusted from straight to spinning depending on the angle you set. In pool mode, water is circulated through the pool and the spa. It spills from the elevated spa into the pool. While in pool mode, water is circulated through all six spa jets and also from two points in the pool. In spa mode, water is only circulated under pressure through the six spa jets. If I were to change the orifices, how would you go about doing this? Which orifices are we talking about? Finally, yes the PSI guage does appear to work and does go to 0. After cleaning and reinstalling the DE screens, without any DE, the pressure was reading 23 - 24 psi. After adding the DE, it went up approximately 1 - 2 psi. Although I may not actually be harming my system, it sounds like from the varying opinions that I may just have to contact my local pool professional and have them take a look at the issue! Again, thanks for your insights, Mike
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fyton2v
Original Author
15 years ago
The ball valve is a great idea! I'm ashamed I didn't think of that.

Any thoughts on the flow characteristics of that filter? I don't mind going down in motor HP, but I'm not sure I want lose the output flow as the same pump drives my waterfall... which needs alot of water to look nice.

Thank you repair_guy...
poolguynj
15 years ago
What size is waterfall line and how high is it?
What size is the rest of your pool's plumbing?

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