In all my research of toilets, I found no other such toilets. I purchased a neorest and a hatbox. I have heard nothing about the hatbox and have actually never used one. I purchased it mainly for aesthetics and size. I have friends with the neorest and they have had no problems. I am a little concerned about the kohler hatbox from my past negative experience with kohler's silent flush models, but I do understand I should not compare "apples to oranges" Since I am/was doing a major remodel with new walls, I thought of installing a tankless toilet. However, I decided that they would be too complicated for the typical plumber to repair and I also kept running into obstacles when I attempted to order the carriers. Also, I plan to rent out this house in the future and figured the carrier in the wall might cause problems that a tenant might not notice until it was too late. Kelley

Wall hung - they will sag. After talking extensively to UK plumbers and bathroom fitters who install wall hung all over the UK, they will not guarantee any work where the metal frame that hold the wall hung toilet is fixed to a wooden framed wall. IF it is in a corner, where there is less "give" they feel that is the best option, but unless these metal frames are fixed into either concrete walls or brick walls, there WILL be some give over time. They all say that if there is no brick or concrete wall option (as in my case - just stud walls) then standard back to the wall are best bet. Access difficult?? - no I do not think so. I have installed many of these in the UK and access is very easy to the cistern. It is all down to how the cistern is hid. With a bit of forethought it can all be made very accessible. All of the back to the wall toilets in the UK are SO cheap. Basic models start at 50 UK pounds - really cool ones start at around 150 uk pounds. I do not think I can even use them over in the US as they all have 4 inch soil/waste pipes. Are the USA waste pipes all 5 inch?

update 09/25: Replaced the flapper which fixed the water leak from tank to toilet problem. Confirmed this by applying the red food coloring test. Not one drop of food coloring from tank to bowl. As for the "dripping" sound from behind wall, the behavior has changed. Now, after a flush I can hear a fast dripping sound (with and without my ear to the wall) for the first minute to two minutes, then it slows to about one drip per second up to about three or four minutes. After four to five minutes the dripping sound seems to have completely stopped (although sometimes I think I hear a drop afterwards but it could just be normal plumbing sounds). I actually timed the dripping sound with a stop watch over several flushes. So this is different than before I replaced the flapper. Before the flapper was replaced the dripping sound was constant and would never stop as long as the water was turned on to the toilet. Is it normal after a flush for water to drip from the bowl into the drain pipe for a few minutes afterwards? One side note is that it is possible I am hearing something which most people don't notice because I have extraordinary hearing ability in my left ear (my right ear is deaf and the left ear has over compensated over time. Audiologists love me because hearing tests for my left ear are literally off the charts, especially in high frequencies.) Having said that, I don't hear the "dripping" sound after a flush from the other two toilets in the house, one upstairs the other downstairs. At the moment I have the water turned off to that bathroom out of an abundance of caution. One question that I have is will the fact that the water is shut off to the upstairs bathroom cause unbalanced water pressure in the plumbing which could cause a pipe to leak or break? Especially when doing something like washing clothes in the upstairs washer?

nancy- It sounds like there is a joist in the floor in just the wrong place. Unless this joist was recently installed without someone paying attention to the fact that this is one of those places where location can be critical, I'd say that no one messed up. If you research offset flanges on the internet, you will find that they are not a problem in most cases as long as you pick one that is oblong so that the waste goes through at an angle. Some offset flanges are rather short vertically, and this produces something of a "shelf" where things can hang up. As for issues with cutting the top of the joist, it's best to minimize this, but it's also done all the time, and the building code allows you to do this up to a certain limit. With an older home, you may have a beefier joist system to start with, so it could be less of an issue. Since it sounds like your contractor is a reasonable person, and not giving you some baloney about how this came to be, you can probably trust him to determine whether there would be an issue with notching the joist and, if so, whether it might be possible to reinforce it, particularly if there is access from below. I agree with klem1 that you do not want to notch out joists (at least no more than the code allows), but I have also owned homes where I later discovered that the plumbers did some pretty zealous notching during installation and nothing bad happened. At least you are aware of the issues and can have an informed, productive talk with your contractor. Please feel free to post back after the talk. Here is a short video showing installation of an offset flange with a design that shouldn't be a problem: Offset flange install If you don't have a plastic drain system, you can find these flanges in other materials. Here is an example of the type of offset flange that I would be concerned about using because it has the shelf I described: Flange with "shelf"