Imo, You should match up the pitch of the patio w/ the same pitch as the house. That is what will determine the height. The width or span of the patio, the pitch of the roof will dtermine that. There are many factors to consider. You wont have an enormous load , just the weight of the framing anf roof type w/ a patio cover. You also want to be concerned with wind shear or lift, so it will need the appropriate footings/piers anchoring the posts and things like rafter ties to tie it all together. This is why i would suggest a licensed structural engineer to calc out all your structral members. Well worth the consultation. Another consideration for you would be to hire a competent carpenter to assist you with at least the roof cutting part of the framing and can help you with tying in the new facia w/ the old showing where your overhangs will be cut, etc. as well as get the initial layut of the patio started. Painting and roofing diy is going to save you money, but valley construction is somewhat complex for a begginer, so a competent carpenter following the calc's of an engineer should get you on track. If you haven't already, it starts at the building dept for permitting. On a project like this, as long as you have a plot plan of your property showing the existing house, you can scetch in the proposed patio. From there it's a matter of explining on paper and drawings that you can diy the framing details laid out by the engineer, roofing type,etc. It would be good for you to know things like nailing schedules of the plywood sheathings, stating rafter and connector types, basically what is required by code for the framing and roof. You can get this info from the building dept as well as conversing w/ an engineer. The carpenter can also guide you as well as long as it coincides w/ the engineers recommendations and code. There are books on roof framing should you diy the whole project, but getting familiar w/ the whole process well before you start will help rather than diving in head first. Here is a link that might be useful: tauton books

Cut the line and put in a tee.

Thanks all, yes I tried it again on the faulty tap and had the same issue. There's no kink. I think there might be some kind of small hole/leak before the tap - in the line itself or in some beginning section of the tap. With the wide mouth of the tap, there's plenty of water pressure because it's the path of least resistance, essentially. But with a hose attached, there's enough resistance to make the water deviate into the leak, wherever that is. We'll figure it out at some point and I'll report back.

Hi Anj, i’m a dog lover, myself with three of the furry ones under my care. And yes, they certainly get dirty and love to play in the mud. That being said, I think it would be rather simple to do what you are asking. Naturally, assuming the plumbing is in good condition, and has been done properly with a vent stack. Lots of bathrooms are back to back, and I share a drain line and water supply lines. Naturally, you’d have to take a look at what’s in the walls and might need a little work to tie into the drain, but I think it should work, OK. True you might have some elevation issues but I do agree getting a plumber involved would be a good idea. It’s not a complicated issue so perhaps watching a YouTube video might give you the answers you need :-) D