The plumbing codes require that when a pipe goes through a masonry wall the pipe MUST BE SLEEVED. To make a code approved sleeve they first put in a short section of pipe at least two nominal trade sizes larger than the desired pipe and extending at least 1" out on either side of the wall. (The sleeve may be inserted in the forms when the concrete is poured). In some jurisdictions they will permit just drilling a hole through the concrete, providing the ID of the hole is equal to the ID of a pipe two nominal trade sizes larger than the desired pipe. After the desired pipe is put through the sleeve the Plumber is required to seal the space between the exterior of the desired pipe and the interior of the sleeve with either a tar or pitch based material or expansion foam. Under no circumstances may cement, concrete or other masonry material be in direct contact with the desired pipe. Te reasoning behind this code regulation is simple. In the case of metalic pipe such as Galvanized or Black iron pipe or cast iron pipe the lime in the concrete will react with the metal causing a premature failure of the pipe at that point. Plastic pipes such as PVC or ABS are impervious to the lime, but platic pipe expands & contracts rather quickly by temperature changes. As hot or cold water alternately flows through the pipe it will cause very minute changes in the overall length and diameter of the pipe where it is encased in concrete and that slight movement causes excessive wear on the pipe wall, again leading to premature failure or leaks around the pipe wall from the exterior. The tar, pitch or expansion foam will remain flexible, allowing for changes in the pipe dimension without causing a leak or abraiding the pipe walls. I would call that plumber back and tell them to remove that hydrailic cement mess and do the job in the manner as prescribed by code.

SDR pipe is made to the "Size Dimension Ratio". Under SDR to determine the wall thickness the diameter of the pipe is divided by the guide number. Example: for 4" SDR-35 pipe the wall thickness would be 4/35= 0.114" and 4" SDR-26 would be 4/26= 0.154". By comparison, PVC schedule 40 pipe, which is made to the IPS (Iron Pipe Standard) the average wall thickness for a 4" pipe would be 0.237", which is more than twice the thickness of the SDR-35 pipe. While code does permit the use of both PVC Sched. 40 and SDR pipe for the "house Sewer Line" in my humble opinion when you consider the cost of the pipe when compared to the cost of excavation and installation labor the minor amount saved by using SDR pipe is a false economy, especially if you live in a region subject to rocky soil or heavy tree roots. Personally, If it was my house I would insist upon using sched.40. It should also be noted that code requires a "Main Cleanout" at teh point where the "house Sewer" meets the "house Main Drain". For structures that have a basement the main cleanout is generally placed inside the basement within 3' of the footer wall. For structures on slab the main cleanout is to be placed on the outside within 3' of the footer wall, and for structures built over a crawl space the cleanout may be placed at either of the above mentioned locations. You are required an additional cleanout for every 80 linear feet of pipe and at any change of direct that is equal to or greater than 45deg.

There is no mandate for a 4" vent line. The codes have tables that assign a Drainage Fixture Unit (DFU) value to every type of fixture that would be connected to the drainage system as well as define the minimum size of drain permitted. We begin by computing the total DFU load on the structure then refer to another table that defines the maximum number of DFU's that may be handled by each size of pipe. Because of the size of the anticipated solids in the waste a watercloset is required to have a minimum of a 3" waste line thus the branch from the watercloset and the "house main drain" must be a minimum of 3" but for large structures with multiple bathrooms it may require a larger line for the main drain. Under the International Residential Code all structures are required to have one "Main Vent" which must run undiminished in size from the "House Main Drain" through the roof. When additional auxillary vents are required they may be reduced to 1/2 the diameter of the line they serve and they may terminate through the roof or in the attic space. In some instances subject to a number of restrictions they may terminate directly through and outside wall or you may use an unlimited number or air admittance valves. The Uniform Plumbing Code does not require a Main vent. Under the UPC a vent line may be reduced to 1/2 the diameter of the line it serves but the combined cross sectional area of all vents must be equal to or greater than the cross sectional area of the main drain line. Under the UPC ALL VENTS must terminate through the roof except, the UPC will permit a maximum of one AAV per structure with the expressed approval of the local authority having jurisdiction. In plumbing any line that is vertical or angled not more than 45 degree from vertical is considered a "Vertical Line". Any line that is horizontal or angled at any angle up to 45 degrees from horizontal is defined as a "Horizontal line or or Flat Line". A vent line may not be run horizontal until it reaches an elevation at least 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture served by that vent which would be the lavatory sink rim. It might be possible to make the offset inside the wet wall in the room below by making a 45 deg angled offset however the length of the drain lines from the tub, shower or lavatory trap to the vent is very closely regulated. Offsetting the vent below might extend the distance from the trap to vent beyond acceptable limits which would then require an additional auxillary vent for that fixture.

Condensation? If the line is a radon vent it may be cooled enough by the air it is moving to cause condensation if it is exposed inside the house.