Flow-tech Inline Water System recommendation
plantguyrb
11 years ago
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Jake The Wonderdog
4 years agoPreferred Plumbing Solutions
4 years agoRelated Discussions
in-line filter for drip irrigation system
Comments (4)hi Brand, What type of source water are you using? Well water pumped to your barrels, roof run-off into your barrels or house water piped into your barrels. Are the barrels covered or open to dust and dirt in the air? As you have guessed by the questions that water can get contaminated and require a filter to remove the particles that get into the water. This is a maintenance chore to clean the filters regularly or they will obstruct the flow and rob you of needed pressure, especially in a gravity fed system. Try your filter and see if you really need it. If you don't get rid of it. Glad to read you don't have pressure compensated emitters. Their torture track pressure regulation causes even small particle to clog the emitter in a short time. the best for low pressure systems is a pipe with tiny holes in it to let the particles escape and not build up in the pipe or just stay on top of cleaning the filter. After a season of growing, cut a piece of tubing and look inside the pipeline to see what is happening at the emitters. Good luck and aloha...See MoreDrip System - Pressure Regulators - Water Flow - Need Help
Comments (5)sfhc, My 2 cents it to get a regulator on your house because your faucets, shower and water appliances are not designed to withstand high pressure over time. Nor is your irrigation system. High pressure systems are prone to water-hammer problems and noisy pipes. You shouldn't be looking for the govt agency to install something a home builder should have done and usually does. The water agency sets its limit very high so it isn't required and doesn't have to pay the cost of giving everyone a house pressure regulator. Normal house pressure should be 45 to 60 psi. If you had your house at 55 psi, your in-line pressure regulators for drip would work. You want a 15-30 psi limit for drip. JMHO Aloha...See Moretank inline with tankless water heater
Comments (10)I am in the process of researching electric tankless water heaters for our remodel as I want the space our traditional tank heater requires. I stumbled across your post looking for people posting their research on which size electric they have. The tankless sites have spreadsheet style charts showing gpm flow plus temperature rise. You may have a third option of installing a new electric tankless that will produce a greater temperature rise at your greatest demand (gpm). However the electric heaters have huge energy demands when they turn on so you may not have enough capacity in your electrical panel to upgrade. the ones I am debating between for our two adult one bathroom home are either the 96 amp size or the 120 amp size. For the same situation you have-solar preheat most of the time but during our California winter storms we can be 7-10 days with no solar to speak of and then the water passing through the solar storage tank is not much warmer than it is coming out of the ground, maybe 50 degrees. I assume you are being reasonably careful about not doing two hot water demand things at once? It is easy for our household to not shower and do dishes/laundry, for example. But with a baby & visitors maybe coordinating running the dishwasher/washing machine when you also need hot water to bathe baby or yourselves gets too complicated? Another option that crosses my mind is to change the solar storage tank to one that could be turned on (gas or electric) when you absolutely need to have warmer water coming into the on demand heater. You could set it to the lowest possible temperature setting and then switch it off when the solar is working to preheat the water. Or possibly get one that can be set to preheat the water on a timer so it runs just once a day, just enough to preheat the water to the level that the tankless can keep up because it needs to raise the temperature only 30 degrees instead of 50-60 degrees. Sorting out what exactly is the issue may help you decide what to do. Do you not have enough temperature rise only when you are trying to do two hot water demand activities at once? If this issue arises only when you have guests you may be able to suffer through the inconvenience of not running the dishwasher/washing machine when someone is showering? I am curious as to what size heater you have and how long you have had it and have you had maintenance issues yet (do you have hard or soft water and do you pretreat the water if it is hard?) and anything else you would share with someone who hasn't taken the plunge!...See MoreIn-line water valve that stops floods.
Comments (6)I had to remove a Floodsafe supply line because it was falsely triggering in my house as well. The Floodsafe mechanism assumes that there's never going to be a really high flow rate unless there's a leak. Unfortunately, if you have fluctuating water pressure - even from flushing another toilet that's on the same line - it triggers on that. It also doesn't do anything about a slow leak, only a burst line. I'd rather use high-quality supply lines that just won't burst, and for anything where even a slow leak would be a disaster, a sensor-based system. They're a lot more expensive, but they actually work by having a valve that opens if the water sensors trigger - so in an actual overflow/leak event, the water shuts off....See MorePreferred Plumbing Solutions
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