Hi Angie -- that's right! I'd forgotten about that underside runnel ... and I haven't seen it (though I might not have noticed) in a residential setting. Funny... It's a great idea though. I'd do it if I were you. I'm not sure there is a "Standard" overhang -- I think it depends where you live and whom you talk with. I think it must have been here that I read 1.5" was "Standard" and when it came time for me to discuss this with fabricators and the like, they all acted like I'd crawled in from Mars. And they charged me extra for the "extra" overhang. I do believe, though, it is nevertheless "standard" for some, despite the protestations I happened to receive. But I wouldn't assume anything! This was totally confusing to me so I'll try to spell it out. Please ignore if it's patently obvious to you: I'll call it a mini-treatise on overhang. (i) There is no standard overhang (ii) over hang is measured from the cabinet box ... or at least it can be. And hence the possibility for confusion. (iii) If you choose drawer fronts that do not "inset" right inside the cabinet box, then they will set on top of the front of that box, and add extra thickness. This comes out of the "overhang" measurement. Thus, if you have, say, frameless cabinets with 5/8" drawer fronts, and your fabricator says "Sure, sure, 1.5", standard overhang..." what that translates to, functionally, is (1.5" - 5/8" = 7/8") overhang. That's less than an inch. Thus it is possible for everyone to do as you specified, sort of, and still wind up with less overhang than you'd anticipated. I had them cut "2" overhangs", from which the 5/8" was subtracted resulting in a little less than 1.5" overhangs. It's enough. But it was a fight! And one that I'm glad I put up. And also, remember that your drawer fronts usually have a little cushion they will sit on on top of the cabinet box, a pad or something -- that takes away a teensy bit more depth too. However, it was never clear to me during the skirmish why there was all this miscommunication. But I understand now; it depends where you're measuring from. As a homeowner/user, I don't care about the box at all; I don't pay attention to it. It's the drawer's front panel that matters to me, where it ends. But the contractors sometimes don't even *see* those drawer fronts so they completely ignore the issue. A real miscommunication. My experience at least. One more thing. I've whined about this a bunch but I just spent several moments ruing my ogee edges all over again. A day never goes by when I don't at least once, usually several times. I hate em. Lots of folks on here love em; I don't. This time it was bits of eggshell -- can't sweep it into the compost bucket. They get stuck, hide, on the little swoopy edge. Someone mentioned that also not-standard may be the angle of the ogee. Another had probably tighter curves and loved theirs very much; it could be that mine are very "lazy" and better catch stuff. It is the one thing I regret the most about my kitchen (which means I'm overall as happy as a clam; I admit this is not exactly calamitous). But I do want to mention, that I felt this, dunno, "glamour-pressure" to sex up the counter edges and yet, function is the most important thing to me and for some reason I just glazed over that consideration. If you're a stickler for function, you might want to consider skipping the whole countertop edge thing. Wish I had! Oh -- except I would, given the ability to choose again, ask for mitred edges, as opposed to standard. Both wind up straight but the mitred blends the swirls of the stone's pattern and the sandwich has a random-looking join - with very happening stone it can make quite the lightening streaks. Not sure whether this was depicted in the posted options.

It looks like when the doors are on, any doors you might put on the cab over the window will not be even with the upper doors to left and right. They will be off just enough to not-quite-match which is kind of more noticeable than being off by a lot. Sorry, not explaining it well. But sometimes the eye wants to travel along a straight, horizontal line. You do have two doors on the left cab and two doors on that slender right cab, yes? Or am I misunderstanding? That being the case, I might just cut a wide valance board to match the depth of the upper cabinet doors, staple on some quilt padding and finish with a pretty fabric to span the gap. Can't wait to see the kitchen finished. It's really cute.

First question: Are you going to be okay moving the OTR micro down 3.5 inches? Second: Have you seen kitchens where folks have raised their cabinets and put an open shelf below (usually not full depth, but enough for cups, bowls, measuring cups, etc.). I think your balance -- closer to 1/3-2/3 now, is about right. I think the 24/30 might look top heavy and too close to the same to be different, if you know what I mean. As much as I want to say do what works best for you and don't give up space, I think it will be off balance. Third Q: Is the 10.5 inches plus crown? I might go simpler on the crown and create an open shelf above that is finished to look like part of the cabinets. If you can get to 12", you can put some display pieces, some cookbooks up there (not the most used ones, obviously). If the 10.5 inches includes your crown, I'd box it up and go for the deep crown look.

So this really is not that hard of a problem. You can use any of Ikea's Capita legs and/or any version of them from a big box store. You want a leg with some type of mounting plate. You want to mount the plate on the sides, back and front rather than the bottom. Here are a couple of mounting plates and you can see how they can attach to the vertical frame rather than bottom. If you are concerned that too much metal will show at the bottom, just attach a small thin piece of wood with glue and clamps to those vertical panels (no need to reinforce the hole bottom, any 3/4 strip will do fine). In any method you choose, you really want to the weight transferring from the panels to the legs, rather than having them transfer to the bottom of the cabinet and then to the legs. The cabinet will need to be attached to the wall to avoid any tipping risk, as you will have a pretty narrow center of gravity, that attachment will probably eliminate a lot of strain on the legs so in the end, don't over-engineer this. It is an hour project with a trip to the local big box store. If it doesn't look the way you hope after you attempt it, take the legs off and donate the cabinets. Good luck