Hello I'm new to the site. I have been given a hot tub and i am trying to figure out how to turn it into a fish pond It cracked over winter so I'm just going to seal it.. It works ... So can I use the jets and it has a little built in waterfall ???I know the jets are powerful so I would have to find a way to weaken them.... Any ideas.... I would like to use as much as the original hot tub as possible .

I would like to set up my tub faucet with 3 cross handles--hot, cold, plus diverter for a handshower. I am told that this configuration is not up to code and that I need to select a one-handle faucet or install an anti-scalding valve. I did a search and found remote pressure balance valves that say "For use with exposed or concealed non-pressure balanced valves where temperature maintenance monitor is required." One of them looks like the link below. Will this solve the issue, and do they work for any faucet (some literally say, "pressure balancing of any faucet or retro fit")? Here is a link that might be useful: Grohe inline remote pressure balance valve

This has discussion has a lot of great information. I'm not sure if everyone's questions have been answered but we have a very in depth article on our site regarding the difference between the Delta 17 and 17T series trim kits. It gets pretty heavy into the details. Others above have given a pretty good explanations in this discussion but I think some aspects may still be a little unclear. Here's a summary of the differences detailed in our article. 1) Water pressure: 17 Series cartridges operate using pressure balancing techniques as opposed to actually sensing temperature. This means that water pressure from a 17 Series trim will be less than a 17T Series. 2) Temperature limit stop: If you live in an area where seasonal temperature differences are greater, you may have to adjust the temperature limit stop in your 17 series shower periodically. You will never need to do this with a 17T series. 3) Accuracy: 17T keeps the temperature in a tighter range. If you adjust the temperature handle more often the 17T will give you more predictable results with less fiddling around required to get exactly the temperature you want. 4) Shower systems with multiple spray outlets: In the case of a shower system you will require more water pressure and a 17T will be better. You will also get better pressure from a standard showerhead with a 17T. These are some of the reasons the price is higher. For more info check out our article: https://faucetlist.com/blogs/buying-guides/delta-thermostatic-shower-faucet-trim-kit-cartridges-monitor-17-series-vs-17t-series-tempassure read the guide

"I could also just get a pull-down faucet for the sink and aim it at the tub to fill it." You could - but you won't like it. The most one of those will fill is 2.2 gallons a minute - some less that that. Divide your tub's capacity by that and you're looking at 20 minutes to fill +/- Not good. beekeeper - I have one of these and have placed more than half a dozen in projects over the past few years. What you get for your money is a machined brass body that mounts in the ceiling or wall and a plated trim piece. The body is a substantial piece of hardware and chrome,brass, nickel plating costs $$$ too. Whether that's all worth 500 + bucks, is up to you. Like davidro says, it doesn't matter what the delivery system is, this is just an opening for hot water to come out of, albeit one with a bit of engineering. GD & Spanish - the splashing is very much dependent on the mounting height of the unit AND the tub selected AND the location of the water column inside the tub. Mine hardly splashes at all. The ones I have seen that splash only do so for a minute or so until their is enough of a pool in the tub to counteract it. Flat bottom tubs with tall ceilings are going to splash more than one from 7' into a sloped contact point in the tub. Besides , we're talking water in a bathroom, generally tiled so what's the big deal ??? It's not like the amount of splash is the same as taking a shower and leaving the door open. 2. While you are correct in that "the water cools off much more than it would from just a regular tub filler", it's not as if it cools off enough for anyone without a thermometer to tell a difference, and a very sensitive one at that! Sure the air cools the water more from a stream falling from 8 feet than one falling from two feet. But bath water that is 100 + degrees is not going to cool down to 90 deg. in the xtra 1-2 seconds it takes it to fall from the ceiling- get real. Additionally , that filler produces a very dense column of water (laminar) that has little to no air in it, so one might argue it will be hotter and less prone to heat loss than a "regular" filler that introduces room temp air into it's stream - thus cooling it off on it's way to the tub. So don't worry Spanish -your tub will still be plenty hot with that filler if you choose it. IT'S A NON -ISSUE people. I've already alluded to the real issue for lower tub temps - FILL TIME. That's directly related to the delivery system ( valve). If your valve and accompanying filler will only deliver 5 gallons a minute it's going to take a while to fill an 80 gallon tub, and there will be some heat loss. Select a valve that delivers 20 gallons a minute and you can be soaking quicker that most people can undress. Here is a link that might be useful: laminar valve body - see page 2