Jenny, Do you have a Menards any where close to you? The skimmer has a barb fitting that can take any hose size from 3/4 to 1.5". You will want to use 1.5" hose. To do this you will have to cut the barb fitting so that the last barb coming out of the skimmer is the one that fits the PVC that you have. You will need a 1" plastic pipe nipple that will screw into the intake on the pump you have. Then you will need a 1" to 1.5" bushing with 1" being female threaded. Screw the other end of the nipple into this. Then you need a 1.5" union with slip x slip connections. Glue one end of the union on the 1.5" bushing. Then glue the 1.5" PVC in the other end. Cut the PVC to the length you need to get to the barb on the skimmer. Put the 1.5" PVC on the barb fitting. On the output of the pump you will want to go to 1.5" pipe as soon as possible as this will make a big difference. If you stay at 1" pipe you will get about 1000 gph from this pump but by going to 1.5" you will get close to the 2400 gph the pump can deliver. To do this use another 1" TO 1.5" bushing with the 1" being threaded and the 1.5" being slip. Screw the 1" threads onto the output of the pump. You will need another 1.5" union which will glue on the bushing. The 1.5" PVC pipe will glue into the other end of the union. This PVC pipe will run up to between the two waterfall boxes. Here you will need a schedule 40 1.5" tee. Glue the 1.5" PVC pipe into the branch on the tee. On each of the open ends of the tee glue 1.5" PVC pipe to run to each waterfall box. In each of the PVC pipes going to the waterfall boxes you will glue a 1.5" ball valve that has slip ends. Then continue the PVC pipe to the barb on the waterfall boxes. Again cut the barb fitting so the the correct barb is at where the pipe goes on. The ball valves are so you can adjust the flow to each box. They can be put anywhere between the tee and the box. If at all possible get the ball valves at either Home Depot or Lowes as they have better valves then Menards. Menards will have everything else except the 1" pipe plastic nipple. Some have them others do not. If they don't have plastic you can you black steel pipe. Mike

When we had our plumber snake the trap and drain line for our tub he did it through the tub overflow. The trap itself was accessible through a removable panel in the adjacent wall, but he said there was no need to remove the trap to run a snake through and remove the clog in the drain line.. Bruce

Sorry...didn't realize it wouldn't be clear! I own the bathroom next door. This is a three story row house. I am contemplating turning a small bedroom on the third story into a kitchenette, in order to make the entire third story a more-or-less independent mother-in-law suite. That small bedroom shares a common wall with the bathroom...the wall that happens to be the one with all the bathroom plumbing in it. So I thought it might be a "relatively" easy job to put a sink in to the bedroom. That plus a small refrigerator, smart oven and an induction burner or two and voila...kitchenette! Knowing nothing about plumbing, however, I'm not clear if one can simply tap into the water supply lines for the bathroom and tie into the drain lines for bathtub or bathroom sink or if a kitchen sink needs its own supply and drain all the way from the basement up.

There's no such thing as a "quick disconnect" in electrical parlance. This is why we don't let plumbers do electrical work. What you are required to have is a maintenance disconnect (nothing "quick" about it) that can either be SEEN from the point where the work is being done or is lockable. There's no requirement for any particular distance, just visibility. As for the panel, there's no provision that says you can't have a panel in the dry area of a bathroom (i.e. not in the shower). What you can't have in a bathroom on the code is the SERVICE DISCONNECT. Alas many panels also perform that function. As to what constitutes enough of a change to merit making you bring things up to code, that's at the discretion of your local inspectors. We can't tell you any formula. Note that if they do have an issue with the service disconnect being located in the bathroom, you can just place a disconnect elsewhere (like near the meter), though that will require the equipment grounding conductors (grounds) to be separated from the grounded conductors (neutrals) at the pane which is no longer the service disconnect.