Hi ifisnm, Gosh, Now my curiosity is really going. Is the budget most important? Is this new area grass or flowers? How Big is the new area? Would you like a permanent hose connection available? Do you have a hose connection fairly close by? Cheapest option: Dig out sprinkler head, remove sprinkler head attach a 1/2" coupling female/female thread/thread to end of threaded 1/2" pvc pipe screw in a 12" or 18" pvc threaded nipple screw on a brass female/male thread/thread NPThread/garden hose connection. The attach the hose. Cost around 10$. Easiest option: Buy extra hoses. Most expensive and time consuming but permanent option: Dig up main, cut main, place tee slip/slip/3/4" thread (don't know size of main), F/F/F, place one compression repair fitting, screw in nipple to height desire for hose connection, screw on hose bib connection. Pour a little concrete at the low bend for stability long term. Note: all threaded joints use teflon tape. GL Aloha

40-50psi may not be sufficient either. The company that installed my sprinklers used around 65psi to winterize my setup this morning. This was higher than I expected so I asked him about it and he said anything under 45psi gives iffy results unless you're willing to spend a lot of time doing it. Even at 65psi with a tow-behind compressor, it took a good 20 minutes to blow out 4 zones. I'd imagine it would take the better part of an afternoon to do so with my little 15 gallon compressor.

I realized I might be coming across as a bit arrogant in my assertion that bathrooms can be done quickly. Please believe me when I say my intent is not at all "look how fast we are, what's wrong with the rest of you." I just am baffled by contractors who say it'll take a month, and am trying to paint a more realistic picture of what I think is reasonable. We've had plenty of oops and rework along the way (there's nothing like tipping a wall frame up and realizing you cut all the studs an inch and a half too long), and as I'm typing it's 11:30 and Mr. Weedy is still finishing up the shower valve so the inspector can do the framing/rough-in inspection in the morning. Anyway, Mr. Weedy was the plumber again all day. He started with the tub and after putting together the drain assembly, realized it wouldn't work with the rough-in. The tub drain was positioned over the rough-in drain, but it has to connect with the drain from the overflow, making it 8 inches off. Plus that connection is typically under the subfloor, so we ended up having to build a 4" high platform for the tub and toilet to sit on, giving us enough below-subfloor room to do the drain. Here's the tub on its new platform. Other than some supporting carpentry, I was left to work elsewhere in the basement, so I worked on framing the bedroom (including closet and soffit) along with BIL, who's now ready to finish the rest of the basement on his own. :-) Kid brother, meanwhile, finished up the subfloor (another 400 square feet or so). That entailed moving a ton of stuff outside and then back in again. Fortunately 7 kids and 14 hands make light work. I suggested they do a "clean sweep" with it while it was outside, but we didn't quite get to it. Here's the clutter pile. And here's the finished subfloor. After dinner, sis put the FG batts in the walls. We showed them how to finish installing the tub wall panels after the inspection and before drywall. We're heading out at the crack of dawn to another sister's, who lives 2 hours away. We'll help her out with stuff for a few days (last year's Christmas gift) while the drywall guy does his thing. We'll be back on Monday to button things up. Fingers crossed for the inspector to pass everything!

Unfortunately the answer to both of your questions is "No". All fixture discharging into a sewage ejector receptor Must Be vented in the usual manner as defined for DWV applications prior to discharging into the receiver. The only exception to this rule is in the case of certain fixtures such as dedicated up-flush toilets that have a built in sewage ejector system. Sewage ejector pumps occupy a totally separate section of the code and the restrictions are firm. Technically speaking a sewage ejector pump should be more aptly called a "Lift Station" because the code requires a number of features in addition to the pump itself. First of all, a sewage ejector pump MUST BE housed in an approved watertight enclosure that is equipped with a removable service access cover and a separate vent through the roof of the structure. This vent may not be combined with any other venting within the structure. Sewage ejector pumps may or may not be equipped with a macerator however only pumps specifically manufactured for the purpose of a sewage ejector may be used. If the pump is not equipped with a macerator feature the pump must be capable of passing 2" diameter solids. By definition a macerator is a grinder feature that can reduce solids to slurry before passing through the pump. Under the International Residential Code (IRC 3007.1) the minimum permissible discharge rate of a sewage ejector pump must be 1.9ft/sec, which is equal to 14.2gal/min. Under the International Residential Code the gravity flow drain receiving the discharge from a sewage ejector pump must be sized at the rate of 1.5DFUs for each GPM of the pump. This means the minimum DFU load of a sewage ejector pump would be 14.2gpm x 1.5DFU = 21.3DFUÂs. Under the Uniform Plumbing code (UPC 710.3.1) the minimum permissible discharge rate of a sewage ejector pump must be 20gal/min. Under the Uniform Plumbing code (UPC 710.5) the gravity flow drain receiving the discharge from a sewage ejector pump must be sized at the rate of 2 DFUÂs for each GPM of the pump. Under the Uniform Plumbing code the minimum DFU load would be 20gpm x 2DFU = 40 DFUÂs. When combining the discharge of a sewage ejector pump with an existing drain we must first determine the existing load on that said drain line, then add the DFU load of the pump to determine the combined aggregate load. Under the IRC the maximum number of DFUÂs permitted on a 3" branch line is 20DFUÂs while the minimum output of a sewage ejector would be 21.3DFUÂs. Therefore the sewage ejector pump discharge itself would be greater than the total load permitted on a 3" branch line, never mind the pre-existing load on that line. A 3" Main drain or building sewer is rated for a maximum of 36DFU while the sewage ejector is rated at 21.3DFUÂs therefore the pre-existing load on the 3" main drain may not exceed 14.7DFUÂs. Now considering that a bathroom group is 6DFU, a kitchen is 3DFUÂs and a laundry is 3DFUÂs. If the house has more than one bathroom and a 3" main drain or sewer you would be required to increase the size of the main drain and sewer line to add a sewage ejector pump. In your case your Main Drain and sewer are 4", which is rated for a maximum of 180DFUÂs so if you install a sewage ejector you will be required to connect it directly to the 4" main drain line. While the UPC assigns slightly different DFU values to the lines and fixtures in the final analysis it works out the same way.