flseadog - I'm fine with the location as it is. When I came home and learned they had moved it in a bit, I was ready to be upset, but it is just fine. Since the master bath is under construction right now, four of us are showering in there daily, and we all are happy with the elbow room. Thanks for the compliment. An outer curtain made the space seem smaller, and it's minimal already. I'm not thrilled with the fancy hooks though...they fly off the rod when you take the curtain down - I've been hit a couple of times. My husband threw his towel over the hooks yesterday, and when my daughter pulled it off to shower, a hook flew in the toilet. She was not pleased. Oh the joys of togetherness! cassie 225, I don't think you would lose much width in 10-12" of height. It doesn't curve in to the tub until the very lower part. But that's why we did the temporary rod experiment first -- I didn't want to drill holes in the tile until we were sure where we wanted it. Well worth the $10.

I think that the best bet is to make them as consistent as possible in relation to window, regardless of ceiling height.

Romy, I'd have to agree with the shops opinions that you need at least a 1 3/8" rod for a 10' rod. While I seriously dislike big for the sake of Big, and have never liked the oversize furniture trends put forth by the PotteryBarn type places, I believe that you do need to keep your rod in proportion to the size of the room and the length of the rod. Honestly I'd probably be looking at a 2" rod for your room. a 10' rod is a long rod, and you don't want it to look like a pencil. How wide is your trim? Remember that with a round rod you're not seeing 2", or 1 3/8", you're seeing whatever the face is that is visible, and if my math skills were a lot better I'd be able to tell you. I do love the Titanium finish, and I like the Amboise finial better than the pine cone one. Your panels are fixed right, you don't intend to open and close them? When you buy the rings make sure to buy the rings that have another little eye ring screwed into the bottom of the ring, as that is necessary to put the hook into and allow the decorative ring to still hang vertically, not go crooked. You can buy wood rings and paint them yourself then screw in those eyelets, but I'd really recommend buying the ones that go with the rod you choose. Then how much of the ring shows is totally dependent on where you put the pin in the pleat. If you put the pin half way up the pleat so that the turn of the hook is just below the top edge of your drapery you'll get the look in your inspiration pic. You don't need to hire someone to hang them for you. **Make sure to put the pin in the pleat, then measure from the inside of the curve on the hook to the hem to determine how high to hang the rod. Then measure from the screweye on the bottom of the ring to the floor. You'd be surprised how many people who hang their own forget about the height of the pins and the length of the drop of the ring.** Thanks for the link to ParisTexas rods. I'm not finding any provision for curved pieces for bay windows. I'll give them a call after the first of the year.

Thank you for the suggestions everyone. We just order light filtering honeycomb shades, bottom-up top-down for 19 windows. Housegal200, thank you for the picture and idea. Once we are moved in I may add curtains that stack entirely on the side. I'm starting a new conversation next above curtains for a double slider. :)