Rusted galvanized pipes - how bad is it?

13 years ago

My wife and I recently purchased an older (1950's) house. We knew it was going to be a project going in -- but to what extent we couldn't be sure.

I got the (city) water turned on today and ran the tub, shower, and faucets. I expected some rust from the old plumbing, but what I saw exceeded my expectations. After 5 full minutes running the tub and kitchen sink, both were still running extremely red/brown. I've worked with old houses before and usually it clears up after a few minutes, haven't seen this much buildup before. Pressure to both was still very strong.

I posted pictures of the kitchen sink and bathroom tub on my blog, see the link below.

Any advice? I'm all for trying not to replace the existing pipes, but if they're so far gone it is necessary, I'll get the work done (Copper, PEX, PVC?) as needed. Appreciate any opinions from the forum. Thank you in advance.

Here is a link that might be useful: Water Pictures - My Blog

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Comments (7)

Sugaluv40
Original Author
13 years ago
Well, stop the presses. Just ran the water again, and water came out clear. It had been a long time since the water had run there, guess the rust buildup was just pretty extensive and took a lot to clear it out.

I'm relieved a bit now, but I know obviously those pipes will need replacing at one point or another. Just a question of whether to do it now or hold off a while. Still welcome any input!

Thank you...
nod702
13 years ago
A lot of the rusty water could have been coming from the water heater.Older water heaters are bad about rusting if not used for long periods.Usually the first thing i do is drain the water heater and then flush the lines.
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It would appear that some of the aforesaid posts are mixing apples and oranges. While it is true that electrolosys will always produce corrosion it is also true that not all corrosion is a result of electrolosys. Under ordinaary circumstances electrolosys occurs inside the pipe wall at the point of a ferrous metal to non-ferrous metal connection I.E. iron pipe or vessel to copper pipe or fitting. The effects of electrolosys only occur at the actual point of contact and it will have absolutely no influence on the service life of other pipe, fittings or components of your piping system. While nothing is truely permanents, the intent of the building codes is to construct a structure with an anticipated life of 50 to 100 years. With that thought in mind it becomes necessary for the codes to address known problems in the worst case scenario. For that reason the codes define that we must use galvanized hangers or strapping on iron pipe, copper or copper clad hangers or strapping on copper pipe and plastic hangers or strapping on plastic pipe. In the case of plastic piping the concern is that all pipes will undergo a certain amount of movement or vibration and over the course of time the use of metal hangers or strapping can cut into the pipe wall. As Brickeye has already pointed out, there must be water present at the point of contact for electrolosys to occur. With this in mind the code requires that we use copper or copper clad strapping on copper pipe because there is a potential that "Condensate moisture" may occur on the outside of the pipe wall on a cold water line. In actual practice, even in the worst csse scenario where the condensate moisture occurs since the point of contact is on the outside of the pipe it is also exposed to a constant source of oxygen from the atmosphere and the presence of moisture will enhance the formation of iron-oxide (rust) on the steel strapping. The effects of iron-oxide occur much quicker than what electrolosys would occur and the end result is that the stap hangers will rust through and break, rendering the hanger ineffective. In regards to the original question about a galvanized iron strap on a copper pipe inside the wall, based upon what I have seen in my experience I would feel confident that you have absolutely no cause for concern.
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I'm doing the same at my home now. I am going pex all the way, except for the stub outs for the fixtures. Pex to copper is fine, but I would suggest that you eliminate the galvie entirely. You do not have to run the "home run manifold system". With my lay-out it is better. YMMV. You can pipe it conventionally. What I like about the manifold system for me is that I am running small diameter tubing to each faucet. That means I will not have to wait as long to get hot water to a faucet. If you look at the cross sectional area of 1/2, 3/4 and 1" tubing, they are .19, .44 and .77 sq in respectively. That all equates to volume that you have to move out before you get hot water. Just something to think about.
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1956 was when galvanized steel for DWV lines was in common use. Some supply lines also. While there are ways to patch up the rusted out pipe if all you have to do is some plaster repair you probably should start learning how. The odds of getting a short rusted section of galvanized steel out of the next fitting (and a new piece of anything screwed into it) are not good.
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Suggest being prepared for a bigger job than you're intending. Your suspicion of internal corrosion, if proved correct upon inspection, will also be extant throughout. If you're going to tear into it anyway, I would suggest being prepared to do all of it on that line, at least. Otherwise, you'll be dealing with more leaks in short order. That corrosion is everywhere. This is just the first leak to show itself. There's more getting ready.
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Sugaluv40
Original Author
13 years ago
Nod, yes, thank you, and I think you're right about the water heater. Before turning on the water for the 2nd time, I did drain the water heater, so I think this was definitely a big part of it.

Thanks for the suggestion.
brickeyee
13 years ago
The problem is not the color of the water but the closing off of the water lines from corrosion and scale.

The hot water lines are more vulnerable, but old galvanized COLD water line are often baldy clogged.

Turning on multiple faucets on the am,e line often show a significant drop in pressure from the corrosion and scale.

The only fix is replacing the lines.
baltomom_gw
13 years ago
We had terrible rust in the water when we moved into our new (old) house, and it disappeared when we replaced the hot water heater. We still have a few galvanized pipes in one bathroom, and whenever we turn on the hot water, rusty water gushes forth for a minute or two, and then it turns clear. I know we will have to replace those pipes one day, but I don't want to start ripping out plaster walls just yet. Our house was built in the 1930s. All the rest of our pipes have been replaced with copper.
brickeyee
13 years ago
"I know we will have to replace those pipes one day, but I don't want to start ripping out plaster walls just yet. Our house was built in the 1930s. All the rest of our pipes have been replaced with copper."

You can pull PEX with minimal wall damage, and f you have access form below even use type L copper, again with minimal wall damage.

plumbers are like electricians, most want to get in and out as quickly as possible since repair is NOT their problem.
gwilson2
12 years ago
Use Copper, the inside diameter is larger than the equivalent pex lines. If you run Pex, you can run 3/4 lines to your fixtures to keep good pressure to them. Make sure you use brass fittings for your pex pipe with copper crimp rings.

Rusted galvanized pipes - how bad is it?

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Sugaluv40
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nod702

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Rusted galvanized pipes - how bad is it?

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Sugaluv40Original Author

nod702

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