plumbing near main breaker panel
caththegardener
14 years ago
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brickeyee
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Installing a 100A sub panel off a 200A main panel
Comments (7)Thanks to sierraeast for straightening my goof-up out & Bill,that's a pretty good detailed work-up about what I've got planned. I'm going to study it at length,but you confirmed my basic original thoughts about how to accomplish this. Your charts and guidlines will be very helpful as I fine tune this. The point about installing the panel in the garage/interior wall cavity was a great heads-up....I was going to do just that. If I surface mount the sub panel in the garage on top of the firerock(perhaps in a firerock plenum) then I should be OK ? I had planned to run all the garage wiring in conduit anyway. I should add the additional rooms(12' firewall between the garage/shop & living area) will be 8' ceiling height in an area that is 12' tall(this leaves a 3&1/2' loft/storage area above those rooms). This will also make those areas easier to wire/insulate/& run HIVAC plumbing. Thanks very much for the information.... back to the drawing board..LOL...Dave...See Morebreaker panel behind a wooden door
Comments (18)MAn Sue, you have some real hack contractors there. We all know that panels get put into kitchen cabinets. This DOES NOT make it a good idea and IS quite illegal. Whether some inspector on the take will let it go is another issue. To even suggest leaving off the original cover is STUPID at best and criminal at worst! The panel WOULD NOT be covered. I don't care what you think or what the GC tells you. Any "cladding" you might want to put inside the cabinet will do squat! The ORIGINAL cover MUST be in place on the panel and ANY open holes MUST be closed. This is a serious code and more importantly common sense. Ever see a panel that failed and had a bolted fault inside???? I have. It is NOT pretty. Sorry if I seem rude about this but the whole concept has me AMAZED!...See MoreNew main panel or sub panel in a mobile home
Comments (13)"Here's the "code book" for HUD." LOL. Although labeled differently, I see we posted the identical link. I, too, live in an area (rural Maine) that effectively requires no permit and no inspection for electrical work. When I asked my local "Code Inspection Officer" (a gravel and concrete guy), he said, "Oh, I verify set-backs and once or twice I've failed buildings for using 16' 2 x 4 rafters, but I don't do electrical." So I pushed him a bit and he agreed to inspect my new garage/workshop building. He had no clue what to look for so I even walked him around, pointing out the various things an inspector might look for (passing each one, naturally) and got him to sign off. That way, I can honestly tell my insurance company that the electrical work was inspected. We both thought the exercise was pretty funny. Anyway, back on topic. Perhaps I shouldn't doubt you, but are you sure you need a service upgrade? A 100-amp service is typically plenty for a mobile home unless there is a lot of electrical heat (e.g., baseboard heaters or heat pump). Have you done a load demand calculation that includes the proposed wall oven? The reason I ask is that I think if you can forego a service upgrade (to 200A?) and replace the panel with physical dimensions not too much larger than the original, you'd be in a pretty good position to argue that, although you've replaced a part (the panel) and added a circuit or two, you haven't voided the "HUD sticker." I think that position is much less defensible if you've upgraded the entire service. But do I know this for certainty? Nope, sure don't....See MoreMain circuit breaker
Comments (6)How is it a code violation, and how do I correct it? I opened the panel today and there is one switch, but it looks like there are two breakers. They are connected together. Each piece says '100' on it. Does this mean it trips at 100A, or at 200A? Thanks, David...See Morecaththegardener
14 years agomanhattan42
14 years agobaymee
14 years agobrickeyee
14 years agomanhattan42
14 years agomanhattan42
14 years ago
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