Welcome! I used stained oak trim with doors painted the wall color in the master bedroom of my previous house and I thought it looked quite nice. I had pine doors and trim before we redid the room with oak trim and replacing the five (!) doors in that room all with oak ones was shockingly expensive. Here's a peek: If you want to go to more work, you can faux finish your new doors with gel stain or a thickened stain like Zar stain and a graining tool. Paint the doors a beige or almond color base coat before applying the stain. It's not easy to get a realistic end product, though, and you may have trouble matching the trim exactly... TV shows always make faux finishes look so easy but they're not!

boopadaboo, Thanks, but I don't think I have a flair for colour. It is always so painful when I have to think of what colour to paint next. Usually after I have painted, I am already thinking of the next time and colour to paint. Soshh, I really like that battleship gray. I did try gray on one wall but it looked so blue. I already bought gallons of paint in the "Night Owl", "Purple Martin" and I think I might even have a gallon of "Flock of Ducks" but I do like that gray. marti, I don't paint trim, that, I have to dust.I find that when you paint with dark colours, the dust shows up very quickly. I think it is because I am always mopping the walls, that I get tired of the paint colour fast and I get bored real fast or I just like to paint.lol

Some might scoff at real stuff next to fake, but I have a few areas of real next to fake in my home which look fine (stucco next to hardie board, real marble next to fake ceramic marble tiles, and wood tile next to real wood to name a few). My wood next to wood tile is running the opposite way and I think it looks fine and was a good tradeoff considering the functional improvement tile provides in combined kitchen/mudroom area and the difficulty of matching 100 year old douglas fir, however 1) The opposite direction run makes sense for the orientation of my kitchen, that is the tile runs with the long dimension of the kitchen 2) Its at natural room transitions, not an abrupt change in an open room 3) The two woods are clearly different from one another so not trying to "match" per se and missing but they are in the same tone family, that is (to my eye at least) both are a neutral brown without any significant grey/red/etc. 4) I carefully picked a tile with some texture to look similar to the 100+ year old original floors. In your case, I'm not sure it works so well. Seems like you have grey "wood" joining with the actual reddish wood in what seems to be an open(ish) area. Also one is sort of a distressed rustic sort of look whereas the other is a shiny smooth (I assume prefinished) look. Seems like you already bought your tile, not sure if you have the opportunity to still change your mind. If you are 100% committed to the floor, I'd do them opposite directions.

I love our wood trim too. Unfortunately we have a variety of shades in our 1928 house. Sometime in 1960, the previous owners stripped the 'bungalow chestnut' and re-stained it with this sickly blonde color. Or they painted it peachy beige. We know the original color was something warm like the above because we discovered it when stripping paint, and an old door in the attic. Anyway! I have found the S-W arts & crafts palette to be really inspiring and helpful. Really you grab one of those colors and you can't go wrong. We have roycroft adobe in our DR and morris room grey in our LR and BR. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/architects-specifiers-designers/color/find-and-explore-colors/color-collections/historic-palettes/interior-historic-colors/arts-and-crafts