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How to cut copper when a mini tube cutter won't fit?

17 years ago

I have an outdoor hose bib which is plumbed in directly after the main shutoff. The supply line to the house is 3/4", and there's a 1/2" line brought off for the hose bib. That line goes to an old stop&waste gate valve which fortunately still works, and then on to the hose bib itself.

There is a leak in the pipe after it leaves the stop&waste. Fortunately, closing said valve stops the leak; unfortunately, this also leaves me with no backyard hose bib. I'd like to chop out the bad section of copper and replace it.

Unfortunately, all of this is smack dab up against a cinderblock wall. I don't have enough clearance to get even a mini tube cutter in there. Is there any other way to chop off the pipe clean enough to sweat a new connection in? Do I have a better option than a hacksaw here?

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Comments (5)

homebound
17 years ago
My last plumber had a different type of mini cutter. It was completely round, closed over the pipe, and by recollection, needed 1/2 to 3/4" at most to operate. You squeezed it with your hand while turning. Maybe try to find one of those.

Alternatively, I would hack it off gently, deburr, and use a slip coupling. Probably would be fine.

Another option is to sweat off the valve and go from there.

(Caveat: I'm not a plumber)
remodeler_matt
17 years ago
I'd replace everything from the valve to the bib, including the valve. Once you get one leak, more are bound to show up. That way you can do a lot of the soldering on the bench, and only have to do one or two joints in place.

A hack saw should be able to do the job pretty easy, but I've also used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, which works pretty good.
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perel
Original Author
17 years ago
It's going to be harder to unsolder from the valve, since I can't drain the supply side. I guess I should just try to do it wet?

This is about two inches above the main shutoff valve. With the water off, this valve IS the low point drain for the house. I can open it and drain most of the water, but there may be a bit remaining in the pipe.

I am pretty sure that the leak in question is from mechanical abrasion, as it's copper pipe, we don't have aggressive water, and the leak is right at the point where the pipe has rubbed against the masonry wall due to movement of the hose bib outside.

It does sound like replacing from all the way back at the tee is the way to go if possible. Does the angle grinder cut off perfectly evenly like a tubing cutter, or would I still have trouble with it being slightly out of round like a hacksaw?
homebound
17 years ago
If necessary you could blow more water out below the valve with a red coffee straw/stirring stick (courtesy of your nearby fast food purveyor).
brickeyee
17 years ago
You can always go to the meter pit, close the corparate side and then disconnect your side of the meter.
Some plastic tubing and a little mouth suction can also clear water after the cut off valve.

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