jcqln, What you will find is that most gas heaters use the same parts. They will last about 8-12 years and they generally lime up rather than fail. There is a known problem with the Whirlpool FlameLock from Lowe's. Other than that, I think you will have a hard time nailing down a big difference in gas water heaters. Bradford White has a good reputation - but that may simply be because they only sell to licensed plumbers.

You should check either with your local gas company or with your Town to find out about building codes, and to make sure you are not in violation. You probably need a new water heater. The useful life of these things is 20 years the most. They usually quit very suddenly and leave a big flood. You should consider yourself lucky that yours is "warning" you that it's time to replace it. The new gas heaters and water heaters are much more efficient than the old ones. Your gas bills will be lower. And, because of their higher efficiency, they emit less smoke. Therefore, even if your chimney is too small for your currect system, it may be fine for a new one. But you do need to get impartial assessment from either the gas company and/or your local municipality. Your system may have been approved according to codes that were used when the chimney was build years ago. But it may now be a violation because codes may have been updated. In that case, your system may be okay if there is a "grandfather" provision that avoids forcing all homeowners to update their systems.

I understand that the gas line cannot be used as the grounding electrode. Since this hot water tank is a power vented model meaning it uses an electric blower to assist in the venting of the combustion gases, the equipment grounding conductor for the circuit providing power to the blower can be used as the bonding means. Wonder if there is continuity between the two now? I will check. I did find this answer also: Is Gas Pipe Grounding Legal? You must not use an underground metal gas piping system as a grounding electrode. So, what's the confusion all about? The controversy behind bonding and grounding metal gas piping systems arose when many electrical professionals questioned the rules and regulations of the National Fuel Gas Code (NFPA) 54. For example, Sec. 3.14(a) in NFPA 54 requires each aboveground portion of a gas piping system upstream from the equipment shutoff valve to be electrically continuous and bonded to any grounding electrode. Sec. 250-104(b) of the National Electrical Code (NEC) agrees with this mandate. On the other hand, NFPA 54 [Sec. 3.14(b)] parallels Sec. 250-52(a) of the NEC, which states: "You must not use an underground metal gas piping system as a grounding electrode" No wonder so many people are uncertain. Let's take a closer look at the rules to help clarify the position of both Codes. Metal gas piping: NEC Sec. 250-104(b) and NFPA 54 [Sec. 3.14(a)]. Sec. 250-104(b) of the NEC and NFPA 54, Sec. 3.14(a) requires you to bond the aboveground portion of a metal gas piping system to a grounding electrode system for safety reasons. NFPA 54, Sec. 3.15 does not allow you to use aboveground portions of a metal gas piping system or its components as a conductor in electrical circuits. However, NFPA 54, Sec. 3.15, Ex. recognizes under certain conditions, which applies when you are using low-voltage (50V or less) control circuits, ignition circuits, and electronic flame detection device circuits as piping or components of an electric circuit. You should size the bonding jumper connecting and bonding the metal gas piping to the grounding electrode system as noted in Table 250-66 of the NEC; based on the largest ungrounded service phase conductor. You should size the conductor just as you would size it if it were a metal water pipe isolated from earth ground because of a nonmetallic underground water supply system. However, some disagree. They believe you should size it from Table 250-122, determined by the size of the overcurrent protection device ahead of the circuit. The only problem we have with this concept and method of sizing is which protective device should you use: the service device, feeder device, or branch-circuit device? Due to this uncertainty, we feel the need for a proposal for the 2002 NEC to clarify which Table to use when sizing this conductor. Depending on where you're working, you should check with the AHJ for their official interpretation.

Nothing wrong with flex pipe on a water heater. 99% of the problems come from people not knowing how to install it properly. If you look at a new water heaters supply and outlet nipples. You will notice a red and blue plastic insert. Those inserts are mainly for sealing the connections. Now when you use a nipple to connect two lines you do not have the plastic inserts to protect the rubber gasket in the hose connecter flange. Thus making them very easily to damage and causing leaks. Once the rubber gasket is damaged you can never get it to stop leaking no matter how tight you tighten it. Been using them for years and have had very little problems.