Fixing the running toilet fixed the usage problem and the softener appears to be functioning perfect, which I guess begs the question, is it OK to leave the check valve in? It does not appear to be restricting flow in any way (valve shows maximum SFR to date of 13.9 gpm) and I don't think it is creating any back pressure. Wouldn't the check valve actually prevent any back pressure from reaching the valve and resin tank and in turn protect the resin tank and valve? Say for instance that the expansion tank was malfunctioning for whatever reason, and the water heater kicked on and created a brief expansion that drove the psi up to say 150 psi and that back pressure pulse was pushed back to the check valve since the expansion tank didn't work correctly. Wouldn't the check valve slam shut and prevent this back pressure from reaching the resin tank and valve? If the normal line pressure on either side of the check valve is the ambient 60-70 psi of the system under normal conditions and a back pressure pulse of 150 psi comes from the water heater side of the installation, isn't that precisely the set of conditions that would cause the check valve to close and keep the pulse on the water heater side of the system? I realize that with check valve in place and the theoretical malfunctioning of the expansion tank, the pressure pulse will seek some method of escaping which could cause damage somewhere in the house like a faucet or toilet, but at least it will not have blown the resin tank or destroyed the control valve, correct? I hope this rationalization makes sense, but I'm not sure that I have done a very good job of positing my questions or explaining the scenarios. Oh well. Take a swing at it if anyone feels like it. I am interested to hear some opinions on this one. I'm thinking more potential bad will come from disassembling a functioning, dripless install than from keeping the check valve in place. Thanks. Drew

They are thermostatically controlled. The tank should still have water but at a less than full level. Next time turn the WH control to pilot.

Both the 22v50 and the direct vent 22dv50 have the same energy factor of .58 with a estimated av energy cost of $235. The 22v50 is your basic 50 gal gas water heater. Unless you don't have combustion air available, there is no reason to go with the direct vent. The direct vent would also require redoing all of your venting since they get their combustion air through a coaxial vent. Their largest tankless unit with 35 degree inlet water would put out just about 4.7 gal a minute at 105 degrees. That is about 2 showers at the same time. There are other units out there that can heat more water You are right about the gas line-- it needs to be 3/4". More importantly from a reasonable installation cost standpoint is that you need to keep the flue short since it is a special stainless steel vent. If you can relocate the heater to an outside wall and then vent through the wall it works best. You cannot reuse your existing vent if you were to go with a tankless. Your plumber might have the best idea, just keep it simple and cheap. Insulate the tank with a $15 tank insulation kit and insulate the pipes then call it good. Put your money towards saving energy somewhere else.

Need to know how to clear inlet line blockage inside a gas water heater. My water heater is original to the house built in 2004, and has functioned perfectly since we bough in 2016. Last night the water heater completely lost pressure. Cold water is fine throughout the house. I shut off the gas and the cold intake valve, then completely drained the tank. There was little to no sediment coming out of the hose. Turned on the intake valve and there’s no water go into the tank. I removed the Therm-X-Trol pressure tank and have good flow from the shutoff valve. The blockage seems to be in the tank. Is there a way to clear this blockage?