Can you get a "click clack" drain? You push it down to close it , and push it again to pop it up. We just had those installed in our Lacava sinks. Only had them a week, but I really like the way they work. After all, what do you have in a sink, that you cannot put your hand in to touch the drain to let the water out? Then you don't need the pull up jobbies on the faucets. Probably the best bet is to check with the sink manufacturer. -Babka

Sorry about the confusion...it is a tub-shower, someone pointed out to me that 1 1/2" is ok. Do you agree? Thanks!

staceyneil, There is a lot of confusion over pressure, volume, etc. What you need to know is what Lazypup said... if it works for you now, it will work for you with 3/4 with possibly a slight improvement. The only other factor I would throw in is that with 3/4" pipes it may take a little longer to get hot water to the faucets. Since you have to empty out the cool water in the pipes first, larger pipes mean that you have to run the water a little longer to get hot water. If you are only talking a short run of pipe, don't worry about it.

LetÂs just say, that when you reach 1 ¼" itÂs time to think about a higher heat source, But it would be wrong to dismiss propane out-of-hand. Propane is an extremely hot-burning fuel and its heat can be managed well, or not. For example, it you have nothing but the joint in question to deal with, the heat from a propane torch would be much more than adequate. The reason it might not be, is that heat flows; and it might dissipate into the air or along the pipe while you are interested in the specific joint. You certainly can boil off the flux. But, then again, you can keep adding new flux. If you donÂt begin with it and maintain it, the pipe will oxidize in the flame and prevent a soldered joint. If you already are competent with sweat-joining pipes of 1", you can manage 1 ¼" with a bit more patience. If this were and all-day job or an everyday job, you would be wasting time not to advance to MAPP gas or better. But for the home handyman, itÂs just a matter of knowing what to do and avoiding errors. Keep in mind that adding flux to a hot joint is a cooling procedure. So when you add flux, you must do it modestly  enough to replace the lost material only. Fortunately, you can add heat faster than you can cool with flux. One thing that has not been mentioned is, that soldering a joint does not have to occur as a singular event. Ideally, you can touch the solder to the perfect setting and it will solder-up in swell foop. But, it is also true that you can work the soldering into a capillary in the same way that a welder would create a seam along a length of materials. Or, as a glazier would work stained glass. So, it is possible to sweat one side of the joint and carefully work around the fitting until the last meets the first. There are just a few conditions that must be satisfied. But, the first, most important one is that solder follows the heat. Which is to say that, if the materials are unspoiled, the skillful application of heat is the technique that causes solder to flow. In practice, this kind of attention may not be cost-effective; at least, not for a workman under time constraints. Pinoke