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Do you have beadboard behind your slide in stove?

16 years ago

I am thinking about using beadboard for my backsplash. My concern is behind my slide in stove that has no backing. I do not want to do stainless there.

So if you have beadboard behind your stove how is it working out for you?

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Comments (12)

ellene613
16 years ago
Beadboard is wood... I wouldn't put a flammable surface behind the stove. Perhaps you could put tile behind the range and beadboard everywhere else?
iwantakitchen
Original Author
16 years ago
I have an electric stove, don't know if that would make a difference?
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Use a primer-sealer and apply it on all sides, including in the tongue and groove, and do the same with one coat of paint. Allow to dry for a couple of days before installing, caulking where needed, and applying your final coat of paint. Beadboard plank will move with changes in moisture level and if you only paint it after it's installed, especially in summer, you will get small amounts of bare wood showing when it shrinks in wintertime. The primer/sealer and paint on the back side will protect it from any moisture that might get back there. Also add nailing strips above and below any electrical boxes or other interruptions; you will probably need some little square plastic thingies called receptacle extenders to bring the face of the outlet flush to the beadboard. If there's insulation in the stud bays, 1x2s set at the top, middle, and bottom of the wainscot area will smush the insulation less and therefore your maximum R-value is preserved, and a 1x2 still provides a good nailing surface. You only have to toenail it through the groove, you don't need to nail the tongue. A nail gun is a lot easier than a hammer and nails but you have to be careful not to split the side of the groove that you nail through. When you put your trim pieces on though, predrill them and use a hammer and finish nails as the trim pieces split easily, as I found to my sorrow. If you use an adhesive on the back and/or in the groove, use one that remains FLEXIBLE, because as the house shrinks and expands with the seasons it can and will literally rip the wood on the beadboard apart, causing cracks and splits. Most often it is the tongue splitting off the main board. The BANG! as the wood splits will scare the bejeezus out of you, and it invariably seemed to happen just as we were falling asleep! Stop every couple of boards to make sure you are level and plumb. Get a good long level, like a 4 foot.
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As others have said it's hard to say without seeing pictures, but, one thing you said makes me wonder if the beadboard look will work. You mention that this is a corner. Does this mean you would only put beadboard on two walls? IMHO it needs to tie in to the surrounding areas. I don't think I've ever seen it used on just some of the walls in a space. I actually looked for this when I was remodeling my open plan basement. I really wanted to use beadboard but couldn't find a logical way to use it on some walls and not others.
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Safe? Yes, as long as you are not using a regular plain slide-in kind of range. Note the 4" riser/vent at the back of Pirula's range. Any range that has at least a 4" high backsplash on it can go directly against the wall and will be fine from a code and safety standpoint. With your cooktop, it will be a little different. Some makers (such as Blue Star) require 6" of horizontal clearance for their units, but Miele is designed to require less. So, as long as you maintain the requisite 2.75" clearance for the Miele, there will not be a safety issue. Beyond that, I'm very much with akchicago on cleaning the thing. I speak from experience. A couple of decades ago, I had an old-house kitchen with beadboard backsplash. I'm a messy cook. I found it hard to maintain the beadboard without frequent touch-up on the paint. I never found a paint that was tough enough to hold up for any length of time. If you really like the look of the beadboard, I suppose you could consider overlaying it with a clear tempered glass panel. That would allow the beadboard pattern to show through and would be much easier to clean. (I've done something like this behind my stove in my current house, although my wall is just plain painted drywall, The tempered glass panel was inexpensive. The most expensive part was having holes drilled in the glass for the mounting screws.). This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Jan 22, 15 at 18:02
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amcofar
16 years ago
I have beadboard behind my stove, and it's a slide-in GE Trivection electric smooth-top. I haven't had any problems with heat. If food splashes onto the beadboard, I just wipe it away.
ellene613
16 years ago
I have a gas range and need a fireproof surface... and I'm mulling over backsplash options too. Read the installation specs for your stove -- they may vary. The following is from a GE electric slide-in range manual:

30" ranges conform to U.L. requirements
for 0" spacing from vertical walls below
countertops. Allow 1/4" minimum clearance
at the back wall above the countertop.
Wall coverings, counters and cabinets around
range must withstand heat (up to 194Â°F)
generated by the range.

So at least for the particular stove I checked, you'd be OK. Beadboard looks great, and the price is right.

Amcofar, how long has your beadboard been in place? Do you have any pics?
iwantakitchen
Original Author
16 years ago
Mine is a GE slide in. So beadboard does withstand heat up to 194 deg?

amcofar- Do you seal the beadboard or what?
Circus Peanut
16 years ago
I must say, I just purchased a house that has beadboard behind the electric slide-in stove and it looks terrible, one of the first things I ripped out.

It was the cheap panel type, stained but apparently unsealed, dating from the mid-90's. It had discolorations and stains from the steam patterns. It wasn't dirty, although it was spotty and I really don't know about having to clean between all those crevices regularly.

Depending on your clearance and the height of the stove back, I'd bet the fire danger can be mitigated, but this is definitely a case where some kind of heavy-duty heat-tolerant paint or poly might serve far better than leaving it natural.
amcofar
16 years ago
Ellene623: Here's a photo of the beadboard behind my stove. It's been up almost a year (this photo taken last week). It was primed with Kilz and is painted with three coats of enamel paint. After a serious cooking session, I usually wipe away splatters soon after they occur. Otherwise, I wipe the backsplash down during my weekly deep cleaning, when I also polish my smooth-top.

The clock is metal. I suppose that if the heat from my stove gets too intense, I'll have singed beadboard accented with a Dali-inspired timepiece! ; )
ellene613
16 years ago
Here's another idea, and it's heatproof -- beadboard tiles, linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Crossville Savoy beadboard tiles
User
16 years ago
Ooh now that is interesting. I know part of the appeal of beadboard is the price, so this would not work in that regard, but I wonder how it would look with horiz/vertical patterns?
ii=ii= so to speak?
brutuses
16 years ago
amcofar, I love your flooring. The colors are fantastic. Is that a laminate product?
iwantakitchen
Original Author
16 years ago
I did see that beadboard tile and thought that was interesting too. But color is limited. I would also wonder how it would look too as sheilaaus122 mentioned. I wonder if anyone on this site has it and could post a picture of the finished product.

Another question I have a a wood beadboard is what it has to be finished with and if I would be able to avoid shiny?
amcofar
16 years ago
brutuses: My floor is ceramic tile by Daltile. I've learned from other posts that this particular line, French Quarter, has evidently been discontinued.

iwanta: My beadboard is not shiny. There are new finishes of enamel that are not glossy and leave a low-luster, matte finish.

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