Everybodies tank depth is kind of different, so this is where your distance is coming into play...A 14" rough would not fix the issue as it is not the bowl but the tank that is away from the wall...

Base doesn't matter. Did you measure excluding the baseboard projection? Don't count that - just the wall matters.

Maybe you're not measuring correctly. Rough opening measurement should be from the wall (not baseboards) to the center of the drain hole (same as where hold down bolts will be). This will help pick a toilet so the TANK ends up near the wall (the bowl doesn't matter.)

i have to side with homebound..measure from the wall to the center line of the hole.
the reason we are saying that something is wrong is that
yes..if the pipe was 14" from the wall, the tamk would be in the correct place. BUT..some cheaper toilets are just goofy in the way there made.
inless i was measureing the center measurement for myself
i am not about to tell you to buy a 14" rough toilet
when the pipe is 12 1/2" from the wall.
to say again....if the measurement was 14" from the wall
i would say get a 14" rough
but..to say get a 14" for a 12" measurement ..confuses me
do you understand why i am babbling on and on

No, it's really 12", maybe just a little over.
Here's a pic........ excuse the mess, we are still in progress.

{{!gwi}}

Strange. What make/model is it, and where did you get it? Was the tank paired with the base or did you select the tank separately?

At this point, I'd call the mfr and discuss the problem. Maybe there's an alternate tank available.

well then, slap a 14" rough in there, it would look better
....my master bath is same color wall..goodchoice !

Maybe you actually have one for a 10" rough (not 12")

I'ts an American Standard Cadet 3. Complete toilet in one box. Bought from Lowes.
It is weird that it doesn't say on the box what size the rough in is, but I looked it up on the American Standard website, and it says on there that it is a 12 inch rough in. (by the model number, anyway)
Frodo....Thanks for the compliment on the color. I love it too...same as my master bedroom.
So a 14" would "fill" in the space??
Thanks!

If the model# is for a 12", and you have a 3" gap, something is wrong. I'm frankly getting "curious" as to what happened. Would it be possible for you to go to the source (mfr) and discuss? A phone call is far easier than sticking a 14" in there and learning the hard way. Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do. Let us know how it turns out.

We replaced the Gaylan reproduction pull chain toilet in our bathroom last January with an American Standard toilet too from Home Depot. Not sure if it is Cadet, but it too sits out far from the wall. We bought the bowl & tank--they were sold separately but they were the ones that were "made" for each other as another AS bowl would not fit the tank. I will dig out paper work and see what model it is, but it is a little different from yours but it is American Standard and it does sit out from wall like yours...kind of gotten used to it now but it bothered me at first.

Will look up model # and post back...I miss my Gaylan pull chain repro....it took a while to get used to this AS.

Jeanie Beth

My husband and I purchased two American Standard Champion 4 toilets and they both stand out away from the wall jsut like your pictures show. We thought the plumbers/carpenters made a mistake. Maybe not.

After reading your post and looking at the picture, I got kinda of curious because it just looks plain wrong. I am including a link to the the Terry Love Forum where this was discussed. I also linked the PDF to the 14" rough model and I notice in the spec that this model will sit up to 4.5" off the back wall. Does that not defeat the purpose of having a 14" rough? I thought the idea was to get closer to the wall?

Then I got more curious and looked at the spec for a 12" rough toilet. I don't know if this is the toilet that you have but it says it can be up to 4" off the back wall. This means that unfortunately, your installation may be normal for this toilet. I wonder why more people are not complaining about this?

Here is a link that might be useful: American Standard 14

Great.

Thanks for the helpful info homepro01.

It's weird how on the American Standard website, it says something like "if you feel the toilet is in the middle of the room, try a 14 inch rough in" So, obviuosly, they know that this is an issue, but I guess they have not read their own specs to see what they say.

Lowes better take this thing back.

Thanks again!!

Why indeed? Who wants their toilet sitting out 4" from the wall? Seems dumb to me. You might want to look at Toto.

Or, maybe you could just look at it as bonus space.....you could store something there....like the ironing board! :-)

This thread indicates that American Standard is sub-par - fitting properly should be cut and dry....and they should already know this and have this issue properly addressed.

We have Kohler's from the big box stores. I highly recommend the standard bowl (quiet and always reliable "clean" flushes), but not the elongated bowl (leaves "streaks" too many times in the bowl).

Although it looks fine to me I would be more suspect of the measurement to the hole in the floor than the toilet.

Not sure what you mean, dchall, that we mis-measured? It's measured correctly. Checked and rechecked. And according to Homepro's link, it's the way the AS is.

I recently met one of your members while working at my job as a Lowes Plumbing Specialist. I did not dispute the claim and the member was kind enough to send me the link to read the thread about the toilet standing so far from the wall. I assured her we would gladly take back the toilet if she would "dry fit" it first (without the wax ring) to see if the problem occured on her installation.

She said it seems there is no problem. If there had been, the remedy I would have offered would be to get her a 14" rough-in BOWL, but first I would want a measure of the bowl she got. It is possible the company accidentally put a 10" rough bowl in the box.

I would like to invite you to take a copy of this email to your local Lowes with a request to make the install right. This does not mean Lowes should pay for an error made long ago by your builder or contractor. It's possible there was once a different wall treatment. You may have to pay for a 14" rough bowl because of an off-standard waste hole. This problem used to occur so often in rushed construction that vanity tops were extended over the toilet tank to conceal the gap. Another solution would be an offset toilet flange.

If this is a problem of the Cadet 3 toilet, I would be grateful for another picture with a yardstick on the floor to show the actual measurement to the centerline of the bolt holes.

Thank you,

Dr. Doorlock
Specialty plumbing resolutions for over 30 years.

We had the same situation and it was an American Standard - we selected it to match the new sink. Our house is from 1938, so we had a 15" rough in and had to special order the toilet. We were not home when the plumber installed it- there was four inches behind the toilet and only a three inch clearance for the door in front of the toilet. The whole thing just looked weird.

We ended up donating the toilet to Habitat for Humanity and buying another one, different brand. (Couldn't return it because it was a special order.)

I am planning to install an outdoor shower to desand the kids before they get inside the house, any pointers for a New England location??

mrclancy-
If you want to get good responses, post this query as a new topic, rather than piggybacking on a post that has nothing to do with your situation...

It seems that the manufacturer sells a toilet measuring 11" for a 12" rough-in allowing for a 1" space behind tank. Why? My plumber agrees with leaving a 1" space so he put the drain at 13" to allow for what was sold as a 12" toilet . Now I have 2" gap at least and I am not happy.

I have 3.5 inches behind in a 5' by 7' minimal bathroom. I want to put a round front toilet in to take up that space but also to get the entire toilet pushed back.

Rosemary-

Unless you pay a plumber to tear into the floor and reposition the plumbing for the toilet drain, or use an offset flange (which can sometimes make the toilet flushing less efficient), you can't just "push back" the toilet.