There are no easy or standard, "cookie cutter" answers. I work with 2 breed-specific rescues - we'll call them Rescue W and Rescue S. Both have a policy of not adopting any dog directly after it is surrendered or pulled from a shelter. Instead, the dog is fostered and evaluated for at least 5 weeks. This policy alone has greatly reduced the number of returns. For Rescue W, 1 dog of 34 adoptions in 2009 was returned. For Rescue S, 5 dogs from 64 adoptions were returned ....only one for aggression (establishing an actual bite history) and it turns out that particular dog has epilepsy and he's doing very well now with medication. A vet check, especially if the dog has been in the new home for some time, is always important! Rescue W is more "lenient" with regards to aggression, especially aggression towards strangers, because the breed is known to be at best aloof with strangers. Because of the breed's tendency towards guarding behavior with a very strong work ethic, we place dogs very, very cautiously and evaluate potential homes very, very carefully before adoption. 95% of potential adopters are denied because they have no prior experience with the breed ... this is probably one of those rescues that people gripe about on Internet forums ;P If a dog is returned for "aggression", we want to know as much as possible about the incident. Aggression that occurs in the first month or aggression towards non-family members, especially when it is only an aggressive display, is usually discounted, meaning that the rescue will offer the services of a professional (free if it's me, discounted if it's one of two other trainers) or the dog will come to me or another experienced foster family for further evaluation. Territorial aggression can be managed successfully and this type of dog can often go to another home with a more experienced owner. Rescue S works with a sporting-class breed, so aggression is seen as a much more serious fault. ANY dog who is returned is placed with an experienced foster family and efforts are made to duplicate the situation where the problem behavior occurred ( except the dog being "hyper" ...it chaps my cheeks to deal with people who return a dog because he's too "hyper" when anyone knows the breed is high-energy). Rehab is generally successful with regards to things like food aggression/resource guarding, especially when a new owner is committed to following a protocol. Because this breed is generally known for its sunny disposition, territorial aggression is quite uncommon and a dog displaying territorial aggression even without a bite history is generally euthanized during the first fostering period. It is very uncommon that fear aggression not manifest during the initial fostering period. In both rescues, dogs displaying fear aggression are generally euthanized after being evaluated. The amount of time and skill needed to successfully rehab this type of dog is simply too great. Yes, it is very sad, but the liability should an aggressive dog be adopted out again and injure someone is too great and the pool of suitable homes with accomplished owners is too small to do anything else. No one walks into a shelter or rescue and asks for the biter. Shelters and rescues do a disservice to the public when they hide problem behavior instead of doing the responsible thing. It's all well and good to say that all the dog needs is a quiet environment with no kids, but single dog-lovers move, get married, have kids, have nieces/nephews/neighbors etc., etc., etc. The hard truth is that I can foster 5-10 "normal" dogs who go on to make someone an absolutely wonderful pet in the time it takes to rehab one problem dog.

My concern is how you are approaching your dog, which is probably why your dog is responding the way it is. Coming at your dog with an agenda, especially with regard to front paws is a mistake. Front paws are one of the most sensitive parts of your dogs body and most dogs loathe having their paws touched. So, to do this properly you need to get into a calmer and less agressive frame of mind BEFORE approaching your dog. Slow things down, dont try to wrestle or muscle your dog, Since you have had some negative experiences with this, you will need to start all over and go slow and be patient. First, sit with your dog and pet him and give him a massage then walk away. Show him the trimmer and let him sniff it leave it by him and walk away. Put a treat really close to one of his paws. See if he can stand it. Put a treat near the trimmer. Put the trimmer on the ground and put the treat near it. Work with him to stay positive and calm. If you find yourself getting impatient or upset, walk away. Try and end each session on a positive note. Dont try and do too much at once. touch one toenail, give him a treat if he does not react and walk away. Try another in an hour or so. Keep working at it slowly. Put a small dab of peanut butter on his toenail. Take a couple of days to do all this. People are notoriously impatient, we want to get things done and get them done now. Dogs are not usually so time restrictive. Can you say waht kind of trimmer you are using on your dog...I may be able make suggestions about what you are using as well.

Since you volunteered at an SPCA I'm sure you picked up lots of tips and information about not only animals but strays in particular. I understand your fear regarding the risks to your son and dog. It is possible that the dog's primary caregiver was the wife and with her gone the husband does not know how to properly care for his dog. That could be why you're seeing it, perhaps animals can associate a neighbouring female for their missing mother figure. With a change in the animals home it could be this poor animal is confused and fearful, especially if the breakup wasn't pleasant and there was a lot of fighting. This animal's world is falling apart and it doesn't understand why. Its mom and the kids are gone so it is probably lonely and feeling abandoned. I feel sorry for the poor thing. I would write a polite note of your concerns regarding the safety of your family and place it in an envelope and tape it to the neighbour's front door (tape it secure or on the inside door so you know if its gone that he took it and wasn't blown away). I am not great for writing letters and the whole situation is probably painful for him so focus on the concerns that you have regarding your son and dog who may not know how to handle the approach of his dog without your supervision. This man is also going through a tough time and for all we know his wife might have gotten the dog and he had no say in the matter but now is left with it. Try to make the note tactful (something I lack at times but know the necessity of) regarding your feelings and the possibility of his dog's emotions might make the the dog react in a way he normally wouldn't. No matter how many times we tell my dad not to leave the dogs outside, off a lease, he never listens. If he goes into the house because he's absent minded and forgets then they are not out for just a minute anymore and he won't know if they are in trouble. He refuses to listen to us and the possible dangers to the animals. Even though they won't run off another dog could attack them but he does not like to be told what to do. He will even do the opposite to spite people to prove he'll do what he wants. He does love his dogs but he thinks he knows what is best and won't be told by others that he's wrong. Even if something happened to prove his error in judgment, he would find ways to blame someone else. I think of my father as I think of how to approach this gentleman. That is why a note would be better than a face to face discussion unless you were friends and could approach him before. A note describing your concerns without sounding accusing or blaming is, IMO, the best approach. If the note and your message go unanswered and the problem continues then you should contact the authorities. I wouldn't offer any help as he is selling his house and will be moving and you have no idea of what will become of his dog then. Sadly he may leave it behind, especially if he rationalizes that you'll take it in since you offered help. If he asks for help do what you feel comfortable doing. The reality is this poor dog's future is uncertain. If this man is not caring for it properly now will he take it with him when he sells the house? If its a really big dog can he take it if he must move into an apartment? Will the wife take the dog when the house is sold? So many uncertainties for this poor animal. When a family breaks up its not just the people and kids who get hurt but also the pets.

Being upset and barking as you leave and while you are gone is a symptom of separation anxiety. Do you make a fuss and comfort him before you leave and greet him as you come home? Not good to do that. You have to teach him that it is no big thing for you to leave or to come back. The best way to do that is to just pick up your stuff and walk out the door and when you come home, take off your coat and start your activities and ignore the dog (except to let him out and back in). When he is calm and no longer excited about you coming home, you can talk to him and pet him. Trainers (I am not one - I just read a lot and have dogs) will tell you to practice leaving and coming home several times a day. The first time, pick up your usual things you take with you, walk out, shut the door and then come right back in, set things down, put your coat away, and go about your activities. Leave him alone until he calms down and then just pet him and calmly talk to him. No wrestling or ruffling his neck, just be calm. Later, not close to leaving or coming home, you can play rougher with him and encourage zoomies. Stay away a minute next time, walk to your car and back. The next time, get in the car and get out, and go back in. Next, get in the car and shut the door and open it again and get out and go back in the house. Then go out to the car, shut the door and start the engine. Turn it off and go calmly back in the house. Next time, drive away but return immediately. Each time you go, take with you what you would take to go to work or shopping. Never say goodbye, just stop what you are doing, put on your coat and pick up your stuff and leave. You can sometimes go backwards in this training and not go out as far as you did the last time, but don’t jump ahead. Each step teaches your dog that being alone that long is fine. Continue to extend trips until you are gone long enough to do grocery shopping. You are going to make you coming and going into an everyday thing that he does not have to think much about. It may eventually stop him barking at your leaving. If you crate the dog when you are gone, you start with crating him and letting him right out and work up to longer time and further away from the crate with each practice session before letting him out. Space sessions out, only a few a day. Once you are going away from the crate and toward the door, then do one where you put on your coat and take it off, then let him out. Then put on your coat and wear it a few minutes, then put on your coat and pick up your things. Next, coat, things, carry them around the house a few minutes and then put them away and walk calmly to the crate and let him out with no fuss. Next time, coat, things, open the door. Close the door, put down your things, hang up your coat and calmly walk over and let out the dog. Baby steps! Look for positive training books and videos. Learn clicker training. Use it to teach house manners, walking nicely on leash, all kinds of good behaviors.