Ditto gardengal's information, but I have a bit of a qualifier that comes from experience having done this myself. While some trees are indeed sensitive to having some of their roots covered, and all trees would probably be sensitive to having all of their roots suddenly covered, a lot of these big trees are tough survivors who will shrug off a little insult to a portion of their roots by growing more where conditions are better. And in terms of root growth, the trees I've had experience with are flagrant opportunists. Every time I have tried to make a flower bed near a big tree, the new soil has been infiltrated by tree roots, usually a mass of them, within two years, with the result that any plants I put in that bed are outcompeted for moisture and nutrients by the tree, and never thrive. So while you may be right that the myrtle didn't take off because they soil stays dry, I'm going to guess that another reason might be that it could not get established as fast as the tree was able to send rootlets into the new soil. All this to say that when you scrape away that soil, you will likely be disturbing roots yet again. So if you value the tree, you might remove the soil gently, just raking it away, and maybe not fixate on returning to right to the original soil level but more on smoothing things out. Remember that a tree naturally mulches itself with leaves or needles, so soil level does not necessarily stay constant. I'm assuming you didn't bury a portion of the trunk, but if you did, that should also be gently re-exposed to the extent that seems possible. KarinL

Well I have solved the problem by relocating the "swamp maples" to the swamp! I had once known that red maples had this nickname but had forgotten. My guess now would be that this bundle of red maple trees was left out in the sun too long prior to packing, or otherwise stressed before shipping, rather than a problem with the conditions here. However from your reply, nhbabs, as well as a reply on the tree forum, it does seem likely that these trees still have a good chance of survival. The most insightful reply of all pointed out that the danger (whether real or perceived) to the horses was stressing me out and that the anxiety itself is a negative factor. So true! If I allowed the trees to stay and they made a comeback, the worry would continue to eat at me. Because I also hated the idea of throwing the trees on the fire if they might regenerate, the transplantation solution suggested itself. I plucked all six of them, donned mud boots, ventured out across the wetland area on the other side of the brook, and planted a little red maple grove in the corner of our property, far away from the horse pasture where they can harm no one. Perhaps one day they will raise their heads above the willow bushes and provide some nice autumn color that can be seen from the house. Or not. But whatever their fate, I feel like a burden is lifted from my shoulders. I decided to replace the red maples with white (paper) birch trees next spring, and I'm now much happier about the situation for both horses and trees! Thank you for the reply nhbabs. It was very helpful.

I understand the various Medics thrive in soil that's low in Nitrogen, so your soil report goes a long way towards explaining this chronic infestation. If left to grow and turned into the soil when they come into flower, well before the seeds set, these helpful 'weeds' will add nitrogen to the soil from those nitrogen-fixing nodules Sam mentioned. For more Nitrogen, you could also add ordinary (green) garden compost and/or alfalfa in some form, as I think (?) others have previously suggested (unless I'm getting your threads mixed up with someone else's - that's quite possible!...) Looking at the soil report, alfalfa may be a good choice since it's relatively low in Phosphorous, which you apparently have too much of, as well as adding those fantastic natural growth-promoting hormones Jeri has described on another thread. Around here you can buy bales of alfalfa hay which makes an excellent mulch, since it gradually adds the nitrogen and other beneficials as it rots down, while at the same time discouraging further airborne weed seeds from taking root. Getting the nitrogen levels up as per your soil report, by whatever method/s you choose, should naturally discourage the Medic. There are plenty of high Nitrogen organic alternatives, including blood meal (NOT blood and bone though), cottonseed meal and coffee grounds - Google for more ideas and find out which are available locally and affordable or free. Other Medic-friendly conditions you may need to address are insufficient soil aeration and moisture retention, which could arise through a lower than optimal level of organic matter in the soil. Amending with any solid organic materials will improve the soil's physical STRUCTURE - as distinct from its chemical make-up - making it less hospitable to the Medic as well as being beneficial for your roses in all sorts of ways! (An organic mulch that rots down over time, like the alfalfa hay, would do the same thing, only more slowly.) I hope this helps. Look, there's rarely if ever just one 'correct' or 'final' solution to gardening problems, so don't expect to be presented with some single, simple magic formula - I may be quite mistaken, but I sort of get the impression that's what you MAY just be hoping for. Please do forgive me if I've misunderstood! What I'd suggest is, if it makes sense to you, to try the above, see how that goes, then decide on your next step. For example, if you find more Medic seeds that are already buried in the soil start coming up through the mulch next year; you could simply do the same thing again; i.e. turn them into the soil when they come into flower along with any remaining decomposed hay (or whatever) mulch, before applying fresh mulch. However, as always, I'm sure others will have other excellent alternative suggestions, corrections, and additions to my thoughts. Good luck! Comtesse :¬)

Oak can be considered a weed species, if unwanted trees grow in your garden. And yes prolific seeding Ash can be definition of weed species. But know Ash does this, because its a "Pioneering" species. And also an ecosystems most influential Keystone species keeping, other invasive species in check. While securing ground so pre-settlement species like Oak can come back someday! Ash Pre 1950 before popular cultivars like Marshal seedless were sold by nurseries, Green Ash was even more iconic than Sycamore for its production of one strong apical dominant leader. These "Plant and grow above your roof" Green Ash can still be found today with ages of 60 and older. In fact, its a good way of estimating a trees age, and can determine if ones ash is younger or older than 60. So presently all the Green ash with one Roman column sized trunks, are those pre 1950 grown examples. A few owners who lost their old wild ash trees to EAB, but are keeping a seedling or two growing. Are shocked how their young trees require no structural pruning because they continue to be so apical dominant. One big difference between Green and White Ash, is how growth on end of limbs on Green Ash, curve upward. And growth habit of White Ash results in all limbs and branches pointing straight upward. White Ash, Sugar Maple, and American Elm, are powerhouse species that can handle growth of multiple limbs extending outward from one lower spot on trunk. Compared to say Callery pear trees, which fall apart with this growth habit. Those three hardwoods with this common trait, can continue to have conglomerate of multiple leaders stay well attached without self destructing. Horticulturally this is because they can handle included bark attachments, actually strengthening overtime by developing into one whole common mass of wood. As a Dendrologist observing thousands of felled trees, one cannot tell from outside that many times one single trunk had been made up from two or more trunks on Green Ash. And when compared to other species that produce twin trunks beginning low to ground, such as Silver Maple. Green Ash can easily become multitrunked tree, producing strongest attachments without fatal problem of included bark. For example, look at a Silver maple diverging into two large trunks, from a sideways view. And you will see pinching bulge extending outward. Yet on Ash with same structure, there is no pinch bulge. Because where two trunks converge, is all same wood without included bark in middle. Know that even Oaks can develop multiple leaders, when grown out in open. And when one finds an older multileader tree growing in middle of forest with all younger single leader trees surrounding it. These examples are called "Wolf" trees, which began growing after settlers cleared local forest during 1800's. Then new forest was later allowed to reclaim old riparian farmland, usually around 1900's. Its great that you all notice different unique growth habits between Green and White Ash. Even cooler is fact that there can be huge differences between wild species evolving from unique local conditions. So traits I point out, may not be true for Ash growing in your local area. One great example, is the wild variety of Biltmore White Ash from Ashville North Carolina which FL Olmsted had discovered. Which has pubescent fuzz on back of leaves, like Red Ash. At same time Scientists consider Red ash, just a variety of Green Ash. Another example is Junginger Autumn Purple White Ash variety a scientist found in Wisconsin local woods. And all those urban ones you see today, are clones that cannot seed. And before clearing of American forest which extended unbroken from East coast to Mississippi river. Tree hunters regularly discovered unique one of a kind examples they would officially characterize and list traits of. Then propagate new trees from cuttings for planting elsewhere.