Sorry Missstaceyh, i have not visited this site in a while since i've started to move. Thursday is our big move day. We got the door from a local lumber yard. Check this site: http://www.mouldingassociates.com/largeimage.php?productid=445 Fabianl, I do not have a designer. I did it myself. I toured may houses during parade of homes and put all different ideas together to build this house. I will post final pictures when i get done with my move.

One+ year later update! Ok, so here's the scoop on TWP and the arbor that I used/built - still holding up pretty well. Color has faded a bit, but I can't tell if it is the wood changing color or the light stain fading. Regardless, still looks nice. Though now, I am starting to see, what I call "pollution" streaks from the very top of the (the flat part exposed to sky) of the 2x2's covering the whole structure. it's probably the tanins that are leeching out and "dripping" down on the upper struts of the arbor. But, in a way, it's not too bad - in fact it's lending a slightly weathered look. Will need to keep an eye on this though. Anyway, the stain is still beading though which is great. in fact when it rains the wood takes on a darker hue. Wood is holding up just fantastic. no splits, minimal shrinkage around base of posts, and smooth as my 4 yo's butt! Sorry about that! he's running around here nekkid! Routed sides of posts have saved many split heads on our kids...plust the base of the posts have helped them not to run near them. though they love to stand on the bases. Installed lights up in cavities of the trellis and have crated a really cool effect onto concrete and wood accenting. I'll post some pics. Oh and money grew on some of my trees so I get to start my outdoor kitchen! Whoo Hoo! Will have matching arbor over top of that too! just wanted to give you all an update. I see some many forums and the threads just seem to stop with no updates...

#1 You can reduce and pop in an eyeball after the finishes are in. #2 The light sits on that ring, and there is very little lattitude to mud past the niche. Often times it's the guniters that cause this they should straighten it out during the shoot, or when they go to flash the mud down. If you want it to be perfect you may have to blow out the niche and straighten it out. You might not have to completely remove the niche once you get the gunite removed around it. If you want it to be perfect, Thats a sloppy gunite job, but typically an all tile pool gets a completely different amount of attention at the gunite phase than a pool that is planned for plaster.

A negative reveal might be better for hiding imperfections in a handmade sink, like the Shaw's farm sink. If your top lip is especially wavy, or slanted (as mine is), then a negative reveal will hide that better. (But lots of people have Shaw's with postivie reveals. Mine is too wonky.) Regarding negative vs zero reveal, with a zero reveal, one will see the caulk, right? So that may or may not be an issue for someone. I prefer not to see the caulk, so I prefer even a tiny negative reveal (like 1/16th-1/8th). Regarding the question about why an undermount sink has to sit lower than the counter. The easiest answer is because that is the definition of "undermount." :-) There is also an "upmount" style where it sits above the counter. And there is a "flushmount" where the counter and sink are on the same level. But some of these styles can probably only be done with a farm style sink that sits on a base, and needs no support from above. Francy