My quest was for a camera that could capture accurate colors of iris and roses. I saw my brother's pocket size Canon S230 (pocket size) was doing a better job on peach colored iris so I bought a Canon A95 (excel reviews, point and shoot but not pocket sized). I loved my old Olympus C3020 for reds and blues but figured it could die soon. Was I disappointed with my Canon! Did not do as good a job as my brother's on peach colors and not nearly as good as the Oly on reds, lavenders! The Oly did die after 7-8 years of service and the Canon croaked after only 3 years. I kicked myself for not spending more for a Panasonic (the many many iris pics taken with the DMC-FZ20 that I saw were consistently excellent). In desperation 2 years ago, before iris season, I bought a used $40 Sony W290. Quite good on all iris colors as Sony fans claimed, but there was a missing quality I can't define. Picked up a $100 used Canon G9 last year and I'm at last satisfied. Very good on iris and excellent on roses. So I've concluded that the model is quite as important as the maker. I like the Canon G series better than a friend's Canon EOS Rebel T2i DSLR --- tried it for a few weeks. Still itching to try a Panasonic. Good luck.

Just from my own real life experience as the mother two toddlers, I can tell you I own over $3000 worth of DSLR body and lenses. My best shots of my kids actually come from my Nikon Coolpix S8100 (under $200). I'll give you the lag time is more than my fancy DLSR. And yes, when I have time to pull the DLSR out I can get a much better photograph, but I can stick my Coolpix in any bag I am taking anywhere and it is always with me. So I get all the candids. My DLSR is bulky (and my kids come with enough baggage already. I love my DSLR, don't get me wrong, I have it for many other reasons, but if she is looking for great shots of her child, a fairly easy point and shoot is way more practical. Kalindi

Search in the Photography forum and you'll get plenty of answers. In the mean time, I'll try to give you my 2 cents worth. Cameras are like cars. There's a maker for each person's individuality. 1st, You'd need to determine what is his level of photography knowledge? In any brand, there's intermediate, medium and professional level cameras. If he's a pro, you may just want to ask him what he'd like. A pro knows what he wants and mostly will not settle with just anything. If he's not, most intermediate and medium level cameras has both features: auto focus and manual focus. They're made for those that want to grow and learn about photography beyond autofocus features. 2nd, Does he owns any previous 35mm camera lens? Would these lens capable to be mounted on the new DSLR body? Such brand as Canon has been a favorite for many because of its interchangeable lens. Meaning, we can invest into the more expensive lens knowing that if we ever upgrade the camera, the old lens would still work with the new camera body as well. I have a few that I owned from the mid 80's and still work very well with the new DSLR. 3rd, The camera body and weight must feel comfortable in one's hand. It makes a different with the result of a photo. If all possible, take him to a camera store and let him play around, ask questions and make a choice of the Digital SLR (DSLR). Then, go online and purchase from one of the reputable online store. Normally, their prices are less expensive. Watch out for import (gray market) vs. US warranty cameras (price varies). Personally, I've always owned Canon. I had several Canon 35mm cameras and had since upgraded to digital: from the Canon Rebel XT to currently the Canon 40D (had it for a little over a month). As mentioned, I have a few lens from the 35mm cameras that works well with both DSLRs. I've upgraded to the Canon 40D because it has some image stabilizer built into the camera. Although, Canon also makes some lens with Image Stabilizer (IS). The lens kit of the Canon 40D camera comes with a 28-135mm lens that has the IS feature (mainly in the US). I don't plan to upgrade the camera body for a long while. I'm quite satisfied with the Canon 40D. Instead, I'm investing on better lens. And, that's what I'd recommend for you to do. If money is not an object, buy a medium price range camera but invest the rest on a good lens with low aperture capability such as f/2.8 or less. Good lens give the flexibility to take crispy clear photos in low light situation. I strongly recommend to read reviews from the 2 websites that Susan posted above. They also has forums in categories of camera brands. You may find some useful information from the users. Good Luck! Natalie

Rather than give you a specific make & model recommendation I would rather give you some general information that will help you make the descision as to which camera is best for you. On first inspection all digital cameras, whether they are simple point & shoot or high end professional DSLR's are a bit intimidating because they have all sorts of buttons and drop down menus. DO NOT LET THAT SCARE YOU. All digital cameras, regardless of how big or small have a fully automated mode where you can use it as a point & shoot camera and get perfect results from your first shot and you may be happy using it in that mode for the rest of your life, but I must warn you ahead of time, digital photography is addictive. Once you start getting great point & shoot type pics you will no doubt get curious about what else you can do, from extreme closeups in your flower garden to shooting a bird a 100ft away. And what parent or grandparent doesn't want a few action photos of their little darlings participating in organized sports and such? The point is, you want a camera that won't break the bank to purchase and is ready to go right out of the box, but one that can grow with you as your skills and knowledge improves. Back in the days of film you had two choices, you could get a point & shoot and live with its limitations or you could buy an SLR and had to enter a formal study group to learn how to use it, but such is not the case today. They do still make Point & shoot cameras which typically sell in the $60 to $150 price range, but I would not recommend those. Most of the new point and shoot cameras do not have an optical viewfinder (an eyepiece you look through). Instead, they use what is called "Live view" where the picture is displayed on the lcd screen on the back of the camera. In some circumstances Live view is highly desirable, but live view requires a lot of energy, which dramatically shortens your battery life, and it can be very difficult to see when outdoors in bright sunlight. In addition, most point & shoot cameras have a fixed focal length lens or one that perhaps offers 2x or 3x telephoto, and some offer an additional 2x digital telephoto, but that is only a process where the camera crops your image down. The problem with the digital tele is that as it crops the image down, it is reducing your negative size, which then dramatically reduces the size of quality prints you can expect to get. You could step up to an entry level DSLR but even the basic entry level DSLR's start out at around $500 plus the cost of a lens and they are generally much to bulky for those who want a point & shoot. Fortunaely they make what is known in the industry as "Bridge Cameras" because they bridge the gap between the el cheapo point & shoot and the expensive DSLR. Bridge cameras will generally average about $200 and upwards to $400 but when you see what you get, they are without question one of the best bargains in the industry. Bridge cameras will operate in simple point & shoot mode, requiring no technical skills from the operator, but they also have the full range of shutter speed and exposure controls that are found on the professional DSLR's. Now, while the bridge cameras do have a fixed lens instead of interchangable lenses, they offer some fantastic zoom capabilities on the lenses they have. They will generally all have zoom lens that ranges from wide angle to 6x or 8x and some even have zooms that go as high as 15x or more. The bridge cameras have an optical viewfinder which means when you look in the eyepiece you are actually looking through the camera lens and you are seeing what the camera sees so you need not worry about chopping heads and feet off and some even offer the live view as an option for shooting in dim light or framing a closeup. And while on the subject of closeups, most of the bridge camera lenses also have the macro feature so you can shoot extreme closeups. You mentioned that you want to be able to put your photos on a flash drive. Nearly all digital cameras use SD or SDHC cards for memory. The actual number of photos that you can fit on a card depends upon the size of the card and the size of the files that are created by your camera, but to give you an example, I shoot a Pentax K10d DSLR and when I use an 8gb SDHC card and shoot in the highest quality JPEG mode, I can get 1615 photos on a card, but then I never go in the field with just one card either. I carry four or five spare cards and a minimum of 3 spare Lithium batteries and I can get 700 shots per battery. If I am going for a weekend I also carry my battery charger for the car. To upload your photos to the computer all the cameras have an umbilical cord that plugs into a USB port, but I find it just as easy to pull the memory card and plug that directly into the computer card reader. In a Windows operating system when you plug the card into the computer and box comes up and says it found a memory device and asks you what you want to do, Hit "import photos" and it will automatically upload the photos into "My Photos" on the computer. I then put the card back in the camera and use the camera to format the card, which erases it so I can start over. (You can also pull the card and insert it into one of the photo kiosk machines at your local photo center to select what you want printed.) One thing I would caution you. When you are selecting your new camera find out what type and size of battery it uses. Some of the smaller cameras use a special battery that is designed specific to that camera. If that is the case, you may have difficulty in finding a spare battery, especially in the future. I learned the hard way because I have an older HP point & shoot that has a battery that will no longer hold a charge, but they have discontinued production of that battery. Many of the point & shoot and bridge cameras use AA batteries, which means it is very easy to find replacements and even the rechargeables are not expensive. (I would strongly advise you be sure to get rechargable batteries). If the camera you select uses a proprietary battery find out if that battery is used in other cameras or by other camera manufacturers. If it is in common use by many cameras the odds of it being discontinued any time soon are greatly reduced. Also, if the camera uses a lithium ion battery that is an advantage because Li-on batteries provide much greater power than ni-cads or Nickle-metal halides. When you get your new camera generally they include a simple photo editing program with the camera software disc but I would suggest you also download a free photo editing program from Google, called "Photoscape". Photoscape is a very powerful, yet very user friendly program that is totally free. No spam, no spyware, and none of that 60 day trial nonesense. I have three professional photo editing programs but I find that Photoscape is my basic go to program for all but the most demanding edits. Here is an illustration I made that will give you examples of the different types of cameras...