Thanks all and appreciate the link Dave. They really were SVB larvae, identical to the pictures and tons of frass. I wonder what a pupa looks like - I can't really tell from the pics in the link. Anyway, I already replanted yellow squash seedlings and zuke seeds in new mix before reading Dave's post. It may be too late to try again, but it stays warm here until October at least with no frost until November so it can't hurt! I just posted a reply to someone else's post about SVBs ("the AUDACITY") asking if there is a date by which the moths go away. But then I just read an article that said the south may have 2 generations per year. If anyone has knowledge about this, would appreciate. Thanks again for the replies. I need squash! :-)

A lot of wild plants in yard indicates grass is in soil at or below 6.3 Ph. These weeds are taking in the nutrients faster than grass at that Ph, because it's so far below the optimum nutrient uptake Ph value of Grass, which is 6.8 to 7.0. Grass will do fine between 6.0 and 7.0 BUT if you don't use pre-emergent herbicides to keep the weeds out, these weeds will steal nutrients from the soil, malnourishing the grass. It's like saying, grass will do fine between 6.0 and 6.3 if its the only plant there. With that low of a Ph, you'll see the cool season loving Clover and violets, the warm loving Dandelions, the heat loving Crabgrass, Plantain, Creeping Charlie, Nimblewill, Sedge Do a soil Ph test 5 inches down to determine soil Ph. Consult back of bag of lime to look at its chart to see how much lime to use. The chart will tell you how much to use to obtain a 6.5 Ph based on your current Ph. Once obtain 6.5 Ph, use 12 pounds of lime per 1000 sq foot every year for maintaining Ph. No less often than 36 pounds every 36 months. If you're dead set against doing a Ph test, use 14 pounds of lime per 1000 sq foot every year until you see the type of grass health you're looking for, then switch to 12 lbs per 1000 sq foot. Since moss will die out from malnutrition past a 6.5 Ph, you can keep adding lime to your yard every year at the rate of 14 lbs per 1000 sq foot until the moss dies out., then go to 12 lbs per 1000 sq foot per year. Keep at least a 6.5 Ph so the grass is healthy enough to become and remain established. Consider also, grass height. At 4 inches, lawn grass goes into down and out growth mode, focusing more on roots and side stems called a stolon, than on vertical growth (blade growth). At 4 inches and at least a 6.5 Ph, you have your self maintaining lawn, you won't have to water as often, or mow as often. 4 inch has the best weed suppression, the best insect suppression. Grass won't go dormant in the heat of the summer at 4 inches because it is only prone to dormancy when the heat comes if its focusing on blade growth, and grass is susceptible to dormancy to the extent that its focusing on blade growth (the lower the grass, the more prone it is). The grass blades will be thicker together and will be a darker green all year. At 3.5 inches or lower, one must use a pre emergent herbicide such as Haltz or Killz to keep weeds out, and overseed at least every three years to keep the grass lush and thick, and use nitrogen rich fertilizer such as turf builder to keep it dark green. Your maintenance is to use lime to first obtain then maintain at least a 6.5 Ph, using no less often than every three years, ideally every year. If the grass is 4 inches, use pre-emergent herbicides in trouble spots like fence posts, flower beds, side of buildings. Below 4 inches use pre-emergent in entire lawn, use Turfbuilder, and overseed at least every 3 years for thickness.

Try the Liquid Fence. It does work quite well for me. As long as I spray well about once a month, and go back weekly and spot spray around the edges of any thing deer or rabbits might be attracted to, they do not eat those things.

I had a Miele Novotronic for 8 years and it worked great when we replaced it purely based on looks (dh wanted stainless). Now we have the Miele Crystal and it is even more wonderful (and looks awesome too). I ADORE how quiet our Mieles have been and that is very very important to me as we have an open concept kitchen and my "office" is the dining table near the dishwasher. Programming - read the manual...it is not rocket science, just takes a little fiddling. You do it once then it's done. Salt - find out whether you even need it. We don't due to soft domestic water supply and we have programmed our dishwasher accordingly. Rinse Aid - dishwasher works fine without it, but dishes don't dry as well. With our new dishwasher I have the rinse aid setting programmed to the lowest setting and will work up until I am satisfied with the drying. You can disable the rinse aid indicator/setting if your tabs include rinse aid - mine don't. I think having separate rinse aid makes sense so you can calibrate it. Tabs - Method Smarty tabs are easy to cut in half, but require a little pressure. Some of the "eco" tabs available to me in supermarkets and specialty food stores seem like they have less soap to begin with so they probably don't need to be cut in half. None of these have rinse aid built in. All of these tabs are cheap and readily available to me. Rinsing/scraping - I doubt rinsing will cause damage to normal dishes, but I never rinse, only scrape. The Miele manual specifically says that rinsing is not necessary. Stuff I put in the dishwasher - EVERYTHING! Even the worst pots and baking pans go in the dishwasher. Occasionally something doesn't come off 100%, in which case a 10 second scrub with a brush finishes the job. 3rd tray - LOVE Express - mine is 35 min