There is a difference in actually uploading content to GardenWeb versus merely providing a link to content on another site. If one uploads a photo to one of the GardenWeb galleries, then you grant to GardenWeb a license for it's use per the terms of use agreement. But a link is not content. If one uses the link option provided at the bottom of a post block to some other web site, it would be preposterous to think GardenWeb then has a license to all that linked site has in content. A link manufactured by the poster in the body of a message is no different, even if it links to content that the poster owns. The link that plantman56 used to display the photo did not give GardenWeb a license for it's use. I see no reason for posters to avoid sharing their photos by linking to them, for you give away no rights by doing so. Uploading directly to a GardenWeb gallery should not be done if you don't want to give GardenWeb a license. Did Nunan infringe plantman56's copyright? Probably. It would seem that plantman56 didn't give Nunan a right to it's use. But plantman56 did upload the photo to Webshots, subject to Webshots' terms of use, which states ... a nonexclusive, irrevocable, worldwide, sub licensable, royalty-free license to use, store, display, publish, transmit, transfer, distribute, reproduce, create derivative works of and publicly perform that Content on and through each of the services provided by Webshots. The worrisome words used are 'irrevocable', 'sub licensable', and 'royalty free'. Did Webshots sub license the photo use to Nunan? We don't know. It's a good idea to read the terms of service before uploading to any site. Compare the terms of service of Photobucket to those of Webshots. Photobucket does not include the words 'irrevocable' or 'sub license'. Copyright is federal law and recourse for infringement can be found in US Circuit Court. Failure to place the copyright symbol on a work or failure to register the work does not bar one from recovery, though it may limit the recovery. Where the infringement was via the internet, some parties may be protected unless notified of the infringement in a formal manner.

Yaya ~ I love that red table. Everyone has such a nice place to sit and dine. I love these pictures. This is where I drink orange juice every morning and work the daily Crossword and Sudoku puzzles and also where we eat supper. I used to keep placemats on the table, but Luther likes to get them and play hide the placemat so I keep it bare now. Also, please excuse the dirty back door glass. I really do clean it every morning, but the dogs keep it looking pretty grimy. When we bought this house I had to give up my dining room furniture because there is no formal dining room. I loved that table, but dd has it now so I can still visit it. Here's an old picture of it when it was our kitchen table because we didn't have a dining room then either. Somewhere I have a better picture of it, but who knows where that might be right now. The little girl sitting on the table went to Rainbow Bridge in 1997 just 3 months shy of being 20 years old. She was so precious to me ( and still is ).

BAFrancy & Bubbam, Good grief!!...I wish you two could come to ND to our store!! We've had Cabinet-Coat for YEARS! We're an ACE store. MOST ACE stores can get CC, but some may be Gun-shy if they've never had it. Minimum order is 2 gallons. * On a similiar note, ACE just came out with their version of CC, called "ACE Cabinet, Door & Trim" paint. * The big win with the ACE is that it's 50-State VOC-legal right out of the gate. * Both CC & the ACE clean up with soap & water. * The ACE is tintable to 98% of the normal ACE colors, although there's no "Red or Yellow-Base" in this new line. * Both have Alkyd & Latex resins..."Hybrids" if you will! >>> Myself & others have posted lots about CC & the new ACE version on this forum. >>> I grinned pretty wide when you referenced the BIN primer comment!! We sell a lot of BIN, to novice AND Pros! >>> 123 IS a good primer on wood. Kinda smelly for a Latex, but a very good primer. * I wouldn't use Oil anywhere on your cabs. For the smoothest look possible, you can sand your primer lightly after a longer drytime. * An Oil PRIMER is OK, but the latexes are equal nowadays. * There's really no advantage to Oil topcoat(s). They start to yellow as part of the natural aging/curing. * Remove dust, and use 2 coats of CC/similiar, one day apart. It's kinda funny...every so often, customers at our counter tell others..."Yeah, you DO need to use the Gray-primer like he said..."!! Faron

CD storage is ok if burned to a quality CD. A few years ago, some inexpensive CDs had a problem with the reflective backing. Also, you must protect CDs from elevated temperature. Higher than normal room temperature may allow the media to relax and dull the data pits. Copying data to a new CD every 5 years is recomended practice. Archival quality CDs should be used if you can find ones with this identification. Your instructor recommended flash drives (AKA thumb drives). I disagree. Flash drives are only a little better than CDs. Flash drives may have evloved since they were first introduced, but I have not heard anything to the contrary. Before I retired, I watched their development in trade magazines and this is my information (15 years old). Flash drives have a "keep alive" battery inside. A voltage source is required to maintain the states of the storage junctions. The current draw is very little, but the data will dissappear if the voltage fails. A lithium-ion battery technology was chosen because it was one type that can hold a charge for a long time. Typical life is 10 years. After that, the thunb drive may become unreliable. Recommended practice: Copy data to a new flash drive every 7 years and toss the old drive (after it has been cleaned of data or destroyed). When buying a flash drive, make sure it is a new one and not one that has been sitting on the shelf for several years. Keep in mind that the life of the unit depends on the life of the internal battery. The jucntions of flash drives do wear out. A junction is good for about 10,000 rewrites and then it may fail. To address this problem, there is an algorithm built in that causes data writes to move around the chip such that all of the storage area gets used equally. Therefore, your archived data should be put on flash drives that are not used very much. Flash drives used as a hard drive experienceing thousands of writes/rewrites will eventually fail. The smaller the capacity, the sooner it will fail. Very large capacity drives will last longer since each junction gets written less often. Do not store your data on a flash drive that is used for games. Thousands of rewrites can occur over the life of a game. Static charges imparted to the electrodes of a flash drive can destroy it, or at minimum, corrupt the data.