Thanks for bumping. I am building the 18 gallon tote SWC. What is the middle smaller pipe for in the very first picture, filling ? I am thinking about putting the filler tube inside one of the corner 4" pvc support. Originally, I was going to put the 14 gallon tote inside the 18 gallon tote. This allows about 6 inches of space for aeration and water, which is plenty, even too much if you ask me. It seems 14 gallon is plenty of space for the mix. But I am thinking 4" is plenty for the aeration and water rather than 6". I don't mind filling every other day. It's only 5 containers and eventually probably set up automatic watering. Anyways, so there I was at lowes getting ready to buy the rubbermaid 14 gallon tote. Then I see the sale price for 18 gallon at $6 and 14 gallon at $7.47. Sheesh, paying more for less material. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=4294961544&Ne=4294967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=rubbermaid+gallon So I decide I am just going to put one 18 gallon into another. I will use 5 piece of 4" X 4" support to allow more space for water but at the same time give almost 18 gallon of potting mix. There will be small gap the 18 now won't sit snug on top of the other one. Comments welcome.

I'm still very much in the "experimenting" stage of rebar...so far I love it... I suppose the rebar should last about 100 years before it rusts into something that cannot support the rose. If I'm around then, I'll post an addendum to this thread. One could always paint the rebar with a rust stopping paint...I'm all for the rust. It adds charm...at least I've convinced myself of that. I suppose the roses will rub against the rebar just as they would any structure. I do nothing to prevent it. If a can gets damaged, I'll eventually cut the cane off. I don't think the garden hose through rebar would look great, especially after the hose starts to get ratty from the weather. I usually install my rebar after the rose has been planted. I added rebar, originally, to add some support for some David Austins that defied the descripton for mature growth. I'm learning more each day. I just push in the rebar so that the bars are about 2-3 ft apart from each other..I use only three bars...it seems enough. I can't comment on Crepuscule because mine is supposed to be climbing a pergola...but the rose is still under 6" tall. Hope this helps some. Robert

cuestaroble, "Could you please provide a reference where any greenhouse, in the universe, has used "PVC instead of PE" as a greenhouse covering?" Quoting from this source, Greenhouse Covering Systems, on pages 8 and 9: "Modern plastics have become the only alternative to traditional glass for covering the greenhouse. Plastic glazings include rigid plastic structured panels, such as fiberglass reinforced polyester (FRP), acrylic (PMMA, polymethylmethacrylate), polycarbonate (PC), and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels. Thin film coverings include low density polyethylene (LDPE), polyvinylchloride (PVC), and ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer (EVA). These materials have been used in single, double and even triple layers to cover the greenhouse." PVC film is included in this listing of greenhouse film products. These Greenhouse Plans list PVC film as a covering option that is difficult to keep clean. Plasticulture in the Global Community - View of the Past and Future has some interesting information on the use of PVC use as greenhouse covers. The advantages and disadvantages of PVC on greenhouses are discussed in this greenhouse article. It seems that PVC as a greenhouse cover is much more popular in Asia than it is here in the US. MM

If the plastic is UV treated they'd work, but greenhouse plastic will probably allow more light. I just built a homemade hoophouse you can see photos on my blog. Here is a link that might be useful: Henbogle