I have removed antique pedestal sinks that appeared to have been joined with a lump of grout or plaster between the two sections. The pedestal would just sit on the floor, and be grouted-in. Nowadays, pedestals seem to be poorer in quality control, as there may be a slight deformation to the very bottom that prevents it sitting flat on the floor tile. I would see no harm in stabilizing the whole assembly with dollops of matching grout. Just make sure it isn't disturbed while curing, as you'll only have one shot at it. Casey

Any grout between the tile and tub should be removed so pull it out with the old sealant and re seal the joint with the most expensive 100% silicone sealant you can find, not just tile and tub caulk. It is necessary to thoroughly remove all of the original silicone in order for the new silicone to stick. Unfortunately that is extremely difficult. Here are some suggestions from GE: "It is VERY difficult to remove silicone from a surface. However, if you must remove it, follow the suggestions below. To remove silicone sealant from surfaces, first remove as much as possible by cutting/peeling/scraping excess sealant from surface. * For ceramic tile, marble, Formica, fiberglass, etc., use 100% mineral spirits (turpentine) and a non-abrasive scouring pad. Test solvent on a hidden area of the surface to ensure that discoloration will not occur. If discoloration does occur, contact the manufacturer of the surface for further assistance. * For glass surfaces, use a razor blade to remove as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess with a towel or other suitable cleaning utensil that will not mar the surface (such as a non-abrasive pad). NOTE: For surfaces such as hard plastics or painted surfaces, including cars, use rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth. Do not use mineral spirits. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. Material Safety Data Sheets for GE Sealants & Adhesives products are available upon request. Similar information for solvents and other chemicals you choose to use with GE products should be obtained from your suppliers. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed. On Rough, Porous Surfaces: To remove sealant from a porous/rough surface, (concrete, brick, wallpaper) remove as much of the sealant as possible (same as smooth surface). If necessary, use a wire brush in conjunction with mineral spirits. NOTE: We do not recommend use of a wire brush to remove sealant from wood surfaces, as doing so could damage the wood. Also, mineral spirits should not be used if the wood has any type of finish on it. Test solvent on a hidden area before applying. Mineral spirits are flammable and should be used away from sparks, flames and other sources of ignition. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. Material Safety Data Sheets for GE Sealants & Adhesives products are available upon request. Similar information for solvents and other chemicals you choose to use with GE products should be obtained from your suppliers. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed. NOTE: There is nothing that will dissolve silicone. NOTE: If reapplying silicone to the area, remove the old sealant. Then clean the area with a disinfectant if mold or mildew is present, apply rubbing alcohol. Let the area dry before re-applying silicone. Do not use soap to clean surfaces to be sealed because silicone will not adhere to surfaces covered with any soap scum." I suspect this is a far more difficult job than you yet realize.

I failed to put my comment in context. When I referred to "cabinetmaker", I failed to qualify it by saying "small shop cabinetmakers" not intending to imply that I meant cabinet manufacturers. When I indicted carpenters/cabinet installers, for their lousy workmanship, that needed no qualification. Filler isn't acceptable even on painted cabinets. My own job of scribing my own sink: A playing card can't pass through the scribe. Some members here may recall I'm a historic preservation carpenter. If manufacturers could, they would provide a template. Two factors play into why they do not; the farm sinks are molded, then fired after drying. In the drying process they deform slightly from the shape of the mold. The ones deemed unusable are culled out, but every sink is uniquely shaped to some degree. Secondly, no two intstalls are exactly alike; the sectional profile of the sink would be different at any given point. If you choose to install it with a 1 1/2" overhang, it's not the same shape at the faceframe as if it were installed at a 1" overhang. The installer has to make the scribing template on site for each installation. So, essentially I'm bemoaning the laziness or ignorance of those who would embark on this kind of installation freehand, and leave the ruins to the homeowner. BTW, my sink base is one specifically designed for apron sinks, from Conestoga. A lot of contractors seem to be over-promising and under-delivering. Casey

I'd try a credit card. You need something stiff enough to remove the caulk without being rigid and sharp enough to dig into the drywall.