I tend to be very sceptical of 'miracle' products like Eleanor's fertilizer and Superthrive that use broad & vague rhetoric to tell you they do everything but cook a perfect 2-minute egg. If it worked like they want to believe it works, they would assuredly lay out the mechanism by which it works to satisfy the sceptics & even the cynics, thereby separating them from the ability to taint the manufacturers sweeping claims. It's sort of like the gritty mix or FP 9-3-6. I can recommend these products for container culture & make help you believe they will work because I can explain why and how they work in a way that leaves you feeling satisfied that your odds of seeing them as beneficial are very good. The many others adding their voices don't hurt, either. OTOH, we can see that it's difficult to sell heavy, peat-based soils when we look critically at them from the plant's perspective - or with the aim of optimizing growth and vitality. There will always be as few people who LOVE these heavy soils for whatever reason, but when it comes to convincing the masses that they truly ARE the best from the plant's perspective, the conversation usually finds them coming up short because of inherent issues that are very difficult to remedy. The same can be said of certain types of fertilizers. As a result, FloraNectar ensures optimal metabolic rates during the flowering and fruiting phase when nitrogen levels have been reduced. How can they make this claim? How can they 'ensure' anything optimal? FloraNectar fulfills the additional energy requirements of your plants throughout all phases of growth and during stressful times of transition. How? Plants' only source of energy comes from the sun & is stored in the sugars, starches, oils, and other bio-compounds they manufacture themselves .... When it comes to horticultural products, if it SEEMS too good to be true, there's a very strong likelihood it isn't. It doesn't bother me that some one else might be convinced of the product's value, but personally, I need a lot more convincing & something with a little more substance to sink my teeth into before I take the hook. ;-) AL

I have checked with my insurance company. They don't care if I put a commercial, non-residential range in my kitchen. I'd notify them in writing before proceeding, of course. Weight should not be an issue. 36-inch to 48-inch ranges weigh from 600 to 800 pounds, which is about five people. The basement is unfinished, so if I measure any deflection I can sister the joists or even add a post. I've talked to a local restaurant supply store. They are happy to sell me a used range. For a new range, they want to sell to a business, which I can do. They will only deliver to my front door, will not install, and the range will have no warranty - all perfectly understandable. The applicable building code has no provision for commercial appliances in residential dwellings. Then again, I've never pulled a building permit just to buy a new kitchen appliance. Interestingly, the code says nothing meaningful about makeup air or required CFMs in residential kitchens - I will look again, though. Visually - hmm. I did a quick sketch - maybe I can make this look palatable, maybe not. So, this brings me to the original issue, which is function and safety. I have friends with commercial ranges in their home kitchens. These ranges don't set the kitchen ablaze, nor do they turn the kitchen into a sauna, nor do they brand you like a calf if you brush up against them. They are not ''on'' at full-bore 12 hours/day, jammed in a room with more ranges, broilers, griddles, ovens, fryers, all working non-stop. I believe that, if properly installed with appropriate clearance to combustibles and appropriate venting and professionally installed gas connections, a commercial range is just as safe as any range. When I add the fire suppression and gas shut-off, I think it'll be safer. But I do need to get the venting right. This house is leaky, but hopefully as we work on it, it'll get tighter, and I don't want any backdrafting. The way I see it, the exhaust and makeup issues I'm wondering about are not unique to commercial ranges. Someone planning a 60-inch "professional" range with char-broiler would face the same issues. I know that discussions about commercial appliances on GW tend to elicit cautionary responses, which I understand and appreciate. But, for the purposes of planning HVAC, let's forget the "commercial" aspect. Let's pretend I'm planning a 60-inch Bluestar and for some reason I like to cook with burners on high and the oven door ajar and the char-broiler blazing.

Common Problems With Air Conditioning. Open Windows One of the most common problems with the cooling system in your home is occurs when doors and windows are left open. You might be surprised at how often just being vigilant about doors and windows can significantly improve the cooling process for your home. Low Refrigerant Refrigerant is the chemical that cools the air within your AC system. Low levels of refrigerant could mean there is a leak, or an actual problem with the refrigerant system. If your AC system needs to be recharged, most of the time that suggests there is a leak. Leaky Ducts, Bad Air Flow Leaky ducts or improper air flow are another very common culprit for why your AC is not cooling properly. Inconsistent temperatures often are an indicator that this is the problem. If there is a leak somewhere in the line then the cool air that is moving from your unit through your home is not making it all the way to where it needs to go. Filters and Coils Check your filters and coils. A dirty filter or coil will restrict your air flow and keep your machine from running at peak efficiency. Clogged Drain A clogged condensate drain on your unit can cause loss of efficiency and cooling. It is best to get a certified HVAC technician to check this for you, it is bit more technical and it is better to be safe than sorry. If you break something it could cause a much more expensive repair later on. Outside Fan The outside fan is responsible for conveying the heat from your home to the outside air. If the fan on the outside isn’t performing correctly, the proper heat transfer cannot take place, the air conditioning compressor may overhead and trip the safety overload. Solution The best and most effective way to prevent these problems is by participating in a preventive maintenance program. If you would like help with your air conditioner from a professional.

I have not been checking recently, but as of a couple of years ago, there was little objective data that indicated that UV lights could do much of anything to help with allergies. I think the return on expensive filters is similar. That would be when added to a system that is functioning well in a home that is kept clean and outside air infiltration is controlled. Of course "allergies" does not really tell much of the story. The most important thing in dealing with allergies is to identify the allergens. If you don't know that, you are stabbing in the dark. Humidity control is going to be very important in S. Florida. Another issue is duct placement and leakage. If the ducts are outside of the house envelope (crawl space or attic) and leak, you are blowing out conditioned air through supply duct leaks causing a partial vacuum in the house. That sucks in hot humid air through any leaks cut in the house envelope. Hot humid air then hits cool surfaces and causes condensation and fungus growth. I have not looked at this for a while, but check it out: My House is Killing Me! The Home Guide For Families with Allergies and Asthma, by Jeffrey C. May, Johns Hopkins University Press, 2001. For building and AC issues in the hot humid South, FL universities have some good resources. So does www.buildingscience.com . If you are going to look at one thing at that site, make it this: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-015-top-ten-dumb-things-to-do-in-the-south/?searchterm=top%20ten