Waterlox- Doing another coat- Satin Issues?
2LittleFishies
11 years ago
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wi-sailorgirl
11 years ago2LittleFishies
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Waterlox / Tried and True sanding level issue
Comments (0)We have white oak hardwoods that we've stained red mahogany. We plan to use either Waterlox (my choice) or Tried and True (Hubby's choice).* However we've run into a bit of an issue. The method we followed to stain the floor was to sand with 80 grit, water pop, then two coats of stain. This is working wonderfully well. However, the info Hubby has found for the two top coats / finishes we are considering say that you should sand to 150 (or maybe even higher). But then, from what I read, they are talking about putting their product on bare wood, not stained. So what do we do? *Any experiences with Tried and True? I'm finding very little info on using this for a floor finish - especially over stain. Any opinions on Waterlox vs. Tried and True? Here is a link that might be useful: The Tried and True info for the curious...See MoreWaterlox- Doing another coat- Satin Issues?
Comments (1)Streaking usually means you didn't get complete coverage - wiped it too thin and left bare spots. I do the "dunk and swab" method, dipping my wiping rag into a shallow container of the oil, then wiping it on in a circular pattern to fill the grain and scratches and get good copverage, finishing with a light-pressure long sweep with the grain to remove the excess. Check promptly with an oblique light source to make sure the surface is evenly wet after you apply a coat. If not, apply more and re-do the sweep....See MoreBlack walnut counters...Waterlox satin or oil finish?
Comments (13)@AboutToGetDusty Rubio Monocoat involves an extra recoating step called "water popping" that Waterlox does not. Water popping for Rubio Monocoat requires extra time to perform and time to wait for drying. This step opens the grain to make the wood more receptive to the sealant, and this is neither required nor recommended with Waterlox. Waterlox is a wipe-and-go recoat unless you have scratches in which case you buff them out before reapplication, same as you would do to address scratches prior to Rubio Monocoat recoating. @Sammy The previous commenter is referring to a "robust film-forming coating" like conversion varnish. My aunt has butcher block around her kitchen sink, and she treated it with five coats of gloss lacquer before using it, for example. It's not a finish that looks natural for those who want the natural look, but it is the finish most impervious to water. @AboutToGetDusty Be careful with the recommendation that walnut is fine for use around water. Walnut of any quality is naturally a tight grain but not classified as a closed grain like maple, cherry or hickory, which thus makes it more vulnerable to water contact since water is capable of entering and traveling through the pores. An oil-based finish mixture with some wax-type substance added to it like Waterlox will work better for you than a straight oil finish as far as lasting between recoats, even if you are recoating weekly. I've read several reviews of people who have used butcher block around the sink, and one unexpected pitfall is mold from drips underneath the handle where the faucet is turned on and off, and sometimes this is from other members of the family who aren't as careful about wiping away water as is the primary cook. You could consider a touch faucet to help prevent this or place a tray underneath that area to help prevent mold. Also be aware that tap water is usually acidic unless it has been treated, and repeated contact of acidic water with walnut wood can create a chemical reaction that may cause brown discoloration. Using an effective sealant and keeping the area dry will help guard against this....See MoreFinal Coat Bona HD Traffic Satin Made Floors a Bit Too Glossy
Comments (25)At some point you will, but I still see some surface texture in your pics. This is a reason why I don't encourage people who want a bunch of coatswhen new, presumably for durability. I could understand on a commercial floor, but for most of my residential clients, when the floor gets scratched and and dingy, they want a recoat to bring it back up to par. I once had a client where we recoated her natural color floor with oil poly, giving it 4 coats total. A housekeeper walked on it, requiring coat #5. The gate guards were instructed that nobody enter and the key was put aside, yet another housekeeper with their own key went in before dry, requiring coat #6,which was a success. When the owner saw how smooth the floor was she contracted us to refinish the floor after season ended, because it looked like a sheet of plastic....See Moreartemis78
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