Oil based will kill any of the stain that may be bleed through latex primers.

I'd even consider using the shellac-based BIN from Zinsser in this case.

2 Latex coats are just fine over BIN.
I'd also maybe do a light sanding of what's there b4 priming...IF you're pretty fussy about a smoooooth finish.

Faron

thanks, I was going to sand it before I did anything. I'm so dissapointed.

What, may I ask, happened to your stain-job?
It MIGHT be "rescueable"!

Faron

well, I'm glad you asked (LOL).

I don't like the way the wood looks. When it was bare, it didn't seem to have a lot of grain, but once it was stained, its very grainy. Also, the stain "took" differently in different parts, like you know how the door frames are 4 pieces, well the top and bottom are lighter, and the sides are darker. NOt blotchy, per se, just different tones. (hope that makes sense) My hubby says that is just the way wood is. But I don't like it. I wanted something more uniform, I guess.
Would sanding it and applying either a darker stain, or an opaque stain make any difference?? (It's dark already).

Thanks so much!!!

There are similiar situations to yours on the Woodworking forum here!
The "Wood Gods" there usually have some good advice.

One easy route to go may be using Gel-stains...
* These are near "pudding-like" consistency, allowing you to control how dark certain areas get.
* One brand that's nice for this is Zar. Their "normal" stains are fairly thick, enabling easy color-control.
* Many other companies have their own versions of Gel stains.
* Try a slightly darker color in Zar, and experiment how opaque you like the color. It's pretty easy to even-out light areas.
* You'll still need some coats of Poly when stain is fully dry.

Faron

Would sanding it and applying either a darker stain, or an opaque stain make any difference??

Not likely,but you could try as Faron suggestes and see if it works.

thanks guys!!! I think I will at least try to restain it... I really don't want to paint it. I wanted more of a stained look.
I'll let you know how it comes out.

Remember, b4 & after pics are required!!
...so dont' get tooooo hasty!

What stain brand/color-name did you use initially?
Doesn't make any difference, I'm just curious. Depending on your initial choice, I could look at a couple Zar colors...

;-)

Faron

I used Minwax// Red Mahogony.

Personally, I hate gel stains. I can very easily control the color of a normal stain simply by letting it sit longer on the light pieces before wiping it off and wiping it off quickly on the pieces that are too dark. If a piece is really light, I will lay the stain on and never wipe it off. In my opinion, it is not worth it to agonize over the various shades/tones that you will get when staining. Your husband is right to a point....it's wood and that is just how it is, but you certainly don't want a light piece next to a dark piece as that will stick out. When you are working with the stain, you want to keep it stirred often for color uniformity. If you let it sit too long without stirring, the solvent will come to the top and the pigment will be at the bottom which will make the pieces you are working on lighter.

Here's the before..see what I mean?? Is there any hope??

{{!gwi}}

For what it's worth, I like the way it looks with the stain. I don't mind the light and dark areas at all. I think it adds character.

I think the color is fine, but what are all the black areas? It almost looks like staining from water damage.

That's part of what I'm talking about....it's brand new, so it can't be water damage.
Could be the angle or lighting too.

On some wood species, a wood conditioner or even sanding sealer applied before staining will help you get a more consistent and even staining. Your cabinet looks like birch as the wood species which characteristically has light and dark areas when staining that you dont see as bare wood. A wood conditioner or sanding sealer may have helped, too late now, but for what it's worth, i agree with randita that it adds character and looks fine. Will look even better when the finish is applied, again, imo.

I did use a wood conditioner. I also think it's birch. I did re stain it with a gel stain, looks better, although not totally smooth. Will have to keep working on it.
Thanks!!
Rita

It looks like oak to me, and water damage is always possible in the lumber industry. I even have to charge my builders extra these days to random orbit sand all oak doors to get rid of the blotchiness. Oak is not supposed to need a conditioner. The water damage can even occur during delivery if the wood is delivered in the rain. The quality of oak these days from all suppliers is not what it used to be.