Now you got me started. I was going to comment that the molding and the floors look wonderful and should stay the colors they are. In many older houses with stained ww, the floor is lighter, giving some interest to the room. Then you got me started on base shoe, my FAVORITE topic. IMHO, you must put the base shoe up. It's the finishing touch on fine woodwork. I've always wondered why it is called base shoe and finally determined that it's like putting on your best clothing and then going barefoot. It just looks unfinished. My former house had all natural molding, what I wouldn't give to have it now. I love my house, but the white moldings can go...and the upkeep. My guess is if you're using the original baseshoe and it's held up all these years, it'll will hold up for many more. New stuff, unless you buy oak, not so much. Have fun. The house is beautiful.

No, it will not look odd at all. In fact, I think it's a beautiful look. Check out this older post about the same topic. There are lots of pictures in the post, and I linked a website with a beautiful house that has this (post from Apr 19th at 12:35pm). Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Another post on this subject

I did this. Here's how. I only sanded the areas of my stained woodwork that had nicks and gouges to smooth them out. I did not "scuff up" everything. My understanding is that's not really needed if the correct primer is used. I used a recommended primer for wood. Don't remember which one, but, I have used Kilz for wood in the past. The correct primer is extremely important. I washed everything down. I also used a tack cloth just prior to priming to make sure I got all the little airborne dust or sanding particles that could still be on the wood. After priming I used Sherwin Williams Proclassic water base acrylic alkyd paint in a satin sheen. This acrylic alkyd is called a "hybrid" paint because it has a little longer leveling time so it acts like an oil base, but actually is water base. It's not cheap paint. I used a good quality angled softer bristle brush. I like a 2" brush, even smaller for window muntins and mullions. To further extend the open time to eliminate brush strokes and to thin the paint a little, I added a product called Floetrol to my small paint bucket. Follow directions. This product is readily available in an orange plastic type bottle. Great stuff. Don't try and put the paint on heavy, do thin coats. The Floetrol will help thin the paint just a bit so it doesn't go on real thick. Remember thin coats. Check for drips, and then check again. Don't paint out of the can. Buy one of those little paint containers with a handle. So much easier, plus it's better to keep a lid on the paint you're not using. I painted my trim and my wood windows. I never had a problem with chipping or being able to open and close windows. You must remember that it will take a couple weeks for the paint to fully cure. So chipping can more easily occur during this time, so take some care if moving furniture. And if it does then touch it up! After living with stained wood for so long, I just got tired of it. Yes, painting wood trim is time consuming, but no, definitely not physically difficult and I am in my late 50's. I just downloaded some interesting podcasts and learned some new things while I painted away! I understand Ben Moore sells a paint called Advance that is like a hybrid paint. I have never used it, so can't comment on it. Any Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams store will be more than happy to answer all your questions.

Scuff sanding with #240 Abranet sanding mesh will be sufficient. Use Zinsser 1-2-3 primer after making it dust free. Be sure to set all nails and fill with spackle prior to sanding. You'll also need to caulk miter seams and all gaps along base and wallboard after primer has dried. Then paint two coats of quality acrylic latex.