Um, the BLO and turps mix is NOT the reason for the problem. It's a standard, recommended, pre-treatment for extremely old, resinous, (i.e old growth pine, fir or cedar), partly weather-exposed, wood. Besides, that's what's under the still-sticking BM primer and top coats on the other buildings. In my case it is the unsatisfactoriness of the SW paint. The BLO component of the pre-treatment step has recently come into question in some quarters as a possible substrate for subsequent mold issues. However, again, it's under the BM paint with no problems seen. Some people have recently chosen to use organic BLO (it's quite pricey and I don't see a difference in other tests) or use a concoction made partly with Penetrol as recommended by the Forest Service. Old wood -and mine is more than 160 years old - is a very different from modern materials and requires different prep steps. Perhaps the difference between my experience and that of Olhousegal's is that my project preceded the Duration formulation, and of course, I am in a much more severe climate where temps of -25F are routine. The OP and I live in the same region, which is why I piped up with my experience. My steps were the same as OHG's: I painstakingly went back to clean wood, too. That's part of the reason I was so disappointed with the results. L.

I vote cvg doug fir. J.

Hi, This is my 1st time answering questions in this forum. I hope I can give you a little more knowledge on your siding project. I do have a couple of question to ask. 1. Are you going to be re-siding your whole house? 2. Are you planning to paint or stain the clapboard? 3. Are you planning to do this project yourself or hire a contractor or siding installer? As you probably know clapboards do come in many species of wood. In the New England area red cedar clapboards are traditionally the must popular another choice would be eastern white cedar, and eastern white pine. In my opinion all are a good choice. Allot depends on the look your trying to achieve. The application of clapboard are either smooth side out, if you are going to paint or use a solid stain. Rough side out if you are going to use a semi-transparent stain. With that said you get into sizing and grading of the clapboard. The sizing of clapboard is usually 1/2" x 4", 1/2" x 6", 3/4" x 8" and 1" x 10". The must popular is the 1/2"x6" in New England unless your on Cape Cod, where you will find more 1/2"x4" this size tends to give you more of a old colonial look. The grading of clapboard especially in western red cedar (wrc) 1.(best) clear vertical grain or (cvg) this product is graded on the smooth face for any defects. The application is generally smooth face out. This would be the best product for painting. 2.(better) A&btr or sometime seen as (aye&better). Like the clear vertical grain clapboards it's graded at the mill on the smooth face but now you get clapboard the will have some vertical grain but also flat grain. This product can be applied smooth face out or rough face out can be painted or stained. I have seen some problems with this grade. If applied smooth face out and painted, there is a possibility of the flat grain raising thus requiring paint more often. Used on the rough side it will take a semi-transparent stain well with the exception of some of the hard flat grain areas. 3. (good)This grade is generally referred to as "Rustics". This product is intended for rough side out application and thus is graded that way from the mill. So far I have explained species, sizing, and grading/application of clapboard. Let me touch a little bit on the finish. For the best finish that being how long the paint or stain will last, it is best to back prime the clapboard before installation. When it's being installed it end or the butt of the clapboard should also be primed, but is seldom done because of the extra step the installer takes. But you should insist on this being done as moisture can be drawn into the un-primed joints and resulting in premature failing of the finish. In my opinion the best way to go is with a factory prefinished product. The entire clapboard is primed and a finish coat is then applied. This system generally comes with a warranty. The warranty requirements are struck and must be followed to the tee. The company will provide colored nails as well as the paint or stain to be applied to the butts of the clapboard. The installer needs to make sure to caulk all areas. This is just a sampling of whats available for clapboards. Last but not least if you are hiring a contractor or an installer, get 3 quotes on the job. Put everything in writing and make sure to check references. Do your homework well and you will end up will a fine job. I also added a link which is the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association which has good information as well as links to other articles. Good Luck Greg ps I am not a buisness but was involved in the building material buisness for 25 years before retiring. Here is a link that might be useful: western red cedar lumber association

well said Todd pjs, keep in mind your window contractor is NOT responsible for capping fascia and soffits nor should he be expected to. We are saying capping window trim looks better if those area's are already capped. This post was edited by mmarse1 on Fri, Feb 22, 13 at 12:39