Wolf hybrids ~yes or no~
19 years ago
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- 19 years ago
- 19 years ago
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Spring pruning: Yes or No?
Comments (4)With acaulescent hybrids - like Helleborus x hybridus (aka orientalis hybrids) - removal of last year's growth is a standard practice. By late winter the foliage is likely limp, often splaying to the ground, and typically battered by weather and diseases. Removal of the foliage in late winter - just as the flower buds are emerging from the ground - certainly does not weaken the plan and can actually improve vigor by removing overwintering fungal spores and various insect pests. New foliar growth is almost immediate and the flowers are displayed to much better effect with the removal of old growth. With the caulescent species and hybrids, this practice is very optional. These tend to produce much more upright and durable foliage and also much more attractive foliage. Typically one only needs to remove any badly disfigured foliage or any that is obviously dried up or dead. Even evergreen foliage doesn't last forever :-))...See MoreViking Appliances? Yes No?
Comments (5)I'm sure someone will post here about how they love their viking appliances, but most independent testing shows that the high end appliances are actually the LEAST reliable. You are paying for the name brand, not quality. eg this is what consumer reports has to say about the gas version of that viking range. The wiring actually melted on 2 separate units. Viking had to redesign it so ti wasn't a fire hazard. Even after the repairs, it still rated lower than the mass market brands. http://news.consumerreports.org/appliances/2012/03/update-consumer-reports-removes-dont-buy-performance-problem-judgment-from-viking-range.html...See MoreIs gray paint on the way out??? Yes or no??
Comments (16)Is the house being painted as a preparation for resale? Is it empty, or are the furnishings inside? What colors are predominant? More importantly-what are semi-permanent elements? The flooring, the tiles, the cabinetry? The color you choose should work with what's already there, not against it. It also should be good looking, most of the time, in the light you have-which is unique to your house-where it stands, how it's oriented, does it get a lot of sunshine, etc. If people are doing gray, and their tiles are imitating Tuskan stone-then to me it's a sign I need to repaint. Creams and beiges and tans would work better. As an example. If the flooring is wood-one is less restricted, but still there are different wood tones. If the cabinetry is very creamy in color-one would want warmer hues where the cabinetry is. If most colors are cool-one wants to continue cooler sceme. If they're "fresh", meaning brighter, clearer,, not muted-obviously one wants to go with clearer colors. And vice versa. In short, you never paint in a vacuum, even if for a resale. You get informed by what's already in your house-and you go from there. People might like what's "in" or they might not-but one thing is sure, what they're looking for is a sense of harmony. Greiges, off-whites, colors in-between are eaier to work with sometimes , but one still needs to pick the right one. What looks great in one house might not work in the other. There are other colors that human eye frequently interpret as neutrals. Some greens and blues for example. We're surrounded by them in the nature a lot-so we percieve many of these as background. Maybe you have rooms where these would work best. The more you tell us about what's already there, the more we can be of help. It needs to look pulled together and nice and harmonious. What color it will be? I don't know. It depends. But for sure not on what's "in" (having said that-in terms of strictly what's in, that one shouldn't pursuit unless he loves it for real-gray is not "in" anymore. Or rather, gray on gray on gray is not "In" anymore. People got tired. Trends changed. They change every 10-15 years. Greige is still going strong though., White is. Off white is. Colors. Jewel tones. Natural wood. The list is long..)...See MoreChimney is better than under cabinet for recirculating hood-yes or no?
Comments (5)It isn't the CFM at the baffles, as this varies with the baffle area for a given blower. It is the velocity at the hood aperture that becomes a higher velocity at the baffles (inversely proportional to their gap area) that determines entrainment. And your CFM values are blower ratings, not actual flow rates. While baffles perform centrifugal extraction, for which higher velocities are more extractive, a given baffle design will likely have a lower velocity limit for adequate performance. Charcoal filters, on the other hand, might perform best if the flow rate were low per unit area. Charcoal works by adsorption, and I expect gentle contact to be the most effective, but I have never read anything related to that issue. In any case, as I'm sure you would have noticed reading enough hood threads here, for hot oil cooking a hood entry velocity of 90 ft/min is deemed (by me) to be adequate for residential hoods with low reservoir volumes. It may be understood that lesser cooking conditions can be addressed by lower velocities, and boiling eggs by the hood being off. Adequacy really depends on hood reservoir volume, and percentage of the hood entry aperture that the baffle gaps equal. Without computational fluid dynamics analysis of the entire configuration, starting at the pan, or use of a test kitchen, it is difficult to make unqualified pronouncements. Look for a hood that can do 90 CFM per square foot of entry aperture when at full power accounting for the pressure losses vs. the hood blower's fan curve. You probably won't find a recirculating one, or won't find the data. Residential hood manufacturers do not in general (some exceptions such as Wolf) provide blower fan curves, and I do not believe that the ARS even meets the worst case plume velocity suggested actual flow rate. You are in compromise heaven with the most expensive solution, and more affordable units will be even more compromised. Accept your fate, or move. [humor attempt]...See More- 19 years ago
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