Once you have it, it's nearly impossible to get rid of. It spreads underground through roots. My rock garden is separated from the rest of the yard by about 4-5' of concrete, and the bindweed from the lawn still travels under the concrete and sprouts up in the garden. I haven't hit mine with herbicide because the neighbors behind me have it, so it will just continue to travel in from their yard. The most important thing is to pull it before it starts to twine around your veggies. We did an experiment in my weeds management class in grad school where we planted various weeds with a various common crops (corn, beans and something else, I think). In every case, the bindweed supressed all of the crops more than the other weeds. We attributed that to the fact that it climbs the crop plant and physically chokes it, rather than just robbing space and nutrients.

#1 - the "correct" common name. I started doing a bit of research on this plant and is there ever a lot of discrepancy on it. I'm finding articles that say that Van Leenan doesn't even exist yet I've found other works that he has done, so I'm not convinced that's true. And I've found many reports that say that this plant does not have any effect on repelling mosquitoes. Others say its wonderful. But, the scientific data seems to say otherwise. I've never had one (MIL did years ago) but the reports say it is quite expensive because it is only propagated by cuttings. I was thinking about getting a couple for my deck but I'm not sure if the smell is quite what I want. I like my "floral" fragrances. Anybody want to start a thread to let us know your thoughts and experiences? In the meantime, find the correct common name. (teehee) While your at it, tell us why the names that Sharon has given are technically incorrect, even for a common name. Shauna

Plantknitter, with more wind, if it is an E, N or NE wind as we usually have in these events, that causes the humidity dew point to drop way off. This is why you don't see actual white frost on anything even if the temperature is well below freezing. Usually though, this is actually more destructive to plants than frost that occurs under calm conditions and high humidity (i.e. a usual white "frost"), because the very dry air causes plant leaves to become dessicated and frozen at the same time: moisture cannot reach the plant tissues and they die. It really depends on the plant though, and some other factors. Plants with tough fleshy leaves, including many succulents, can handle this better than a frost with high humidity. Plants with delicate leaves, especially those from the Southern Hemisphere, and some bamboos, would do better in a frost with high humidity because their leaves would not be so dessicated. This is a huge generalization but you get the idea. Even if it is below freezing, the very cold winds do keep the temeprature up compared to what it could be, because mixing of the air prevents radiational cooling. So while last night it was blowing all night and the temperature was 28-32F for many of us - if it just stopped at some point, with the arctic air in place, the temperature would drop right off, especially in sheltered valleys where radiational cooling typically brings very cold temperatures. Slopes with good air drainage and places very close to the water usually do not experience such severe lows when radiational cooling occurs. This is what may happen tonight, and certainly tomorrow night, if the wind ever dies off. Surprisingly, I'm not seeing the temperature fall like a rock anywhere just yet. It is still too windy in most places. The South Sound, which is often the coldest, is still experiencing strong winds that are keeping the temperature up around 30. bboy, point taken but #1 it makes more sense to ignore the tops of the mountains since no one lives or gardens there #2 really all you are doing is pointing out the inadequacies of the USDA zone system for our region, which I would agree with. But you could just as well say that Sunset, with only two zones for western Washington's lowlands, is oversimplified as well. #3 if we figured everywhere was in the same zone as the land all around it, we would only have one zone.

Jeanie, I agree 100%. And what I keep telling others and myself. I'm starting some seeds earlier than normal but will also start some at the normal time. Also have invested in some larger pots I can pot up to if I need to hold the early ones longer. But if they get froze after they have been in the ground for a while I will have those started later to replace them. If I don't need the later starts I will either sell or give them away. And I'm not starting my whole amount either. I always tell someone gardening is a gamble but never put all of your eggs in one basket especially if starting this early. I posted on another thread about my visit with my friends and favorite greenhouse owners this past week. He said they've been receiving requests to start seeds for people for a few weeks now. They want the plants ready to transplant no later than April 1st. That is way to early for this area even with protection. I have set out April 10th and with protection the plants have survived and did well. They warn those who order plants so early but they grow for the public and if that is when they want them then they start them. One order was for 100 habeneros for a small market grower who wants the first peppers and tomatoes at his market. The quest for the earliest fruit will never end. My lean to greenhouse along with my cold frames allows me to start plants earlier and to protect them if needed. I plan to build another frame also. Any of us who have been around a few gardening seasons know full well that pushing the envelope carries certain risks. And in the end many times the results aren't any greater. I won't push peppers or ora at all. I'm going to push a few tomatoes hoping to get set before the heat arrives.Jay