Been a long time since we had that problem, but as I recall we just used a loop of heavy chain and a heavy duty lock at the hasp and hinge end. Make the loop short and attach it low so that the gate and posts would have to be removed together. This assumes you have large wooden posts at each end. Worked for us, chains are still there, but locks do have to be periodically replaced even with oiling. Good luck, Ev

You don't have to have a prep sink at all unless you want one. Sailorman suggested moving the cleanup sink to the island because its closer to the ref. Range to sink and Ref to sink are critical to how a kitchen functions because they are frequently walked. People are concerned because the ref is around the corner and far from a sink (think its at least 16 feet one way). So everybody is suggesting to do something about the sink position or add a sink. Guessing from the cabinet measurements, I think your island could up up to two feet longer. This would allow you to have a nice eight foot long island with the sink and dw and trash in it and maybe an 15" drawer or door unit. You would have 8 feet of the one foot deep cabinets or a single seater stool. This would change the outside wall configuration - like have a 30" drawer base with micro, range, 15" pullout or drawers, 36" super susan, and up to 3 36" drawer units and a 30" drawer unit on the back wall. (There rather disguised hints in there that the pullout and super susan would be perhaps difficult to access and that the micro might be better off in a place where it didn't face another major appliance and was closer to the range and ref). From a kitchen users perspective it's really a case of figuring out where you want to chop and how far you want to walk! There isn't much difference between prepping between the sink and the range on the outside and the sink and the range on the extended island except for steps to the ref.

Look into Coretec, Adura Max, Karndean, and Flooret for good quality click lock vinyl flooring. Unless you plan to self-install, I strongly recommend finding a local flooring company known for excellent quality and good installation. Take home samples and look at them in morning, afternoon, and evening light. Flooret does not sell to resellers, but they can probably recommend local installers. Weshipfloors.com has good prices on vinyl flooring, but I cannot recommend or not recommend as I have never purchased from them. They have a line of vinyl plank flooring called "Kryptonite," and it's pricing is very good. Here's a light colour somewhat similar to what you posted that is very pretty: http://www.weshipfloors.com/flooring/silver-tail-luxury-vinyl-plank-flooring-3mm-x-63-x-48-cork Flooret has beautiful colours: http://www.flooret.com/modin-vinyl-plank-flooring/ Adura Max by Mannington: https://www.mannington.com/Residential/AduraMax/Search I'm having 2700 sq. Ft. of Adura Max Dockside Sand installed in a few weeks. Will post photos if you haven't made a decision by then. Coretec Dakota Walnut was my second favourite colour. The sample I brought home was lighter than the website photo: http://www.usfloorsllc.com/flooring-products/dakota-walnut/ I'm running out of time so cannot post Karndean link. Hope this helps!

Good questions... Here's the complete scoop: This door leads from a basement to a Bilco-door. Up to now the Bilco-door has been secured by its own slide-locks. So the door pictured was just an access door to the Bilco. Note: I do not use or plan on using the Bilco for access into the basement. I have converted the Bilco stairwell to storage accessible from the outside. As a result, I no longer have the Bilco slide-locks to provide security into the basement. Therefore, this door now becomes the security between me/basement and the outside-world. Make sense?