Hello Ivette! WOW! Are you serious?! EIGHT coats...hoo boy! Ralph Lauren (made now by ICI paints) has greatly improved over the last 5 yrs. If you use RL again, look for the newest 35xx tint-base numbering. The previous numbering system was 15xx. Example, the current Eggshell Brilliant-White tintbase is 3591. For a Satin dark color (Neutral base), it's 3293. We sell lots of Ralph L. "Reds" where I work, and we don't let people out the door without gray-primer to go with it! You DO need a 5-6 hr. drytime between coats though! There's about 13oz's. of colorant in those reds, so it dries SLOWER. It takes a full 1.5 minutes for our computer tinters to dispense a gallon of it! Doesn't matter what "brand" of red it is, gray is the proper background. About 1/3 of the time, a 3rd coat may be necessary if the wall is strongly lit. I love the Ralph L. reds, and many of our clients do too. Some have even come back to thank us for "forcing" the gray-primer on them! See ya, Faron

We just finished our "red" dining room and I lOVE IT! We used Bm's moroccan red, seems darker in our space. We too had the store, white primer & they added as much black to it that would fit in the 5 gallon container of paint. It ended up actually a really neat gray, blue shade. The red went on well over that, looked good with one coat and perfect with two.

I think it would probably combine with the amber, unless it is opaque. If its opaque the light wouldn't shine through. I've been playing with pebeo 150 paints that you apply and then bake in the oven. You can't take it off after its baked, but they seem to look the same after, so you could experiment and not cook it until you get the right look. That is assuming you can take the glass part off to bake it. Some of the pebeos are opaque. They have an O after the number or something. None of mine are opaque, but that was just good luck since I didn't know the system when I bought them. What ever paint you use, think about what color plus amber (yellow) equals the color you want and try to buy 0r mix that color. Also you can paint on the inside and the outside to help neutralize the amber if you need to. Calamity is right, just grab some paint and go for it! Good luck. Have fun and report back! Kathy

Read the cans of the products you are considering to buy for guidance. Generally speaking, floor coatings are self priming and manufacturers usually recommend not using a primer. Also, the poly isn't something I would do because you are not going to gain any substantial durability by using that as long as you are using a high quality paint. I would not want to worry about painting over the poly layer when it comes time to recoat later either.