Hi Drj Sorry. Misread this statement. "We considered, a couple of years ago, building in a place with a list of approved builders. It so happened that the lot we were interested in was owned by a particular builder so we had to use him if we decided to build on that lot". I thought you were talking about this house. One thing I don't understand is that if DH went to straighten out a "bunch of other trim issues" how is the TC is doing a good job? The ceiling issue you posted about should have been addressed by him before he cut the first board. I also don't understand the on-the-job training of the siding crew. Is this a shake sided house? How much did that "journey" cost you and is it the beginning of a long journey for you of failing products and voided warrantees? If the builder had spoken to his supplier Nichiha would have wined and dined them for a few days and trained them on how to properly install the products. If you look at the photo posted by worthy it is obvious that people aren't "as fussy". If that were one of my projects the first thing to go would be that stair. Everything about it is wrong. It's disproportionate in every detail and it looks like everything else in the foyer was slapped in there with no rhyme or reason whatsoever. Was that supposed to be a barrel vault ceiling or are they just trying to hide the stair coming into the hallway? The white concrete and the floor are great but are lost in all the commotion. The amount of money you are spending or the perceived "value" of the home compared to others and your distance from the site is irrelevant. Most of the clientele I worked with were usually on different continents altogether as were some of the subs. With the technology and services available today there is no reason why you couldn't get a sample sent to you. If they are using an "epoxy-like" finish it may not be noticeable. The only thing I would be concerned about everything having a plastic or metallic look. Either way you are paying for this work and it is your house. Wanting something done right is not being "fussy".

Your General Contractor (I assume that's what the GC is), should be able to do the "right thing". I think if the sheet rock is not damaged, i.e., after drying out it is solid repainting should do it. If not then replace a section of the sheet rock and paint. I'd assume a good primer for new sheet rock, perhaps Kilz (there are many mixes), maybe Kilz Gardz, it has had high recommendations on this forum.

Thanks to you both for your help. The reason I'm really concerned about this is the fact that this garage has had a history of peeling paint off the ceiling. My mom lived in this house, and I spent many hours trying to scrape and get rid of big peeling pieces of paint off of the ceiling in this unheated garage. I would get it looking pretty good, but before you knew it, more was peeling off. Ughhh!! I always thought the reason was that someone had painted with an interior paint not suitable for extreme temperatures. The garage did get very cold despite the fact that it was attached to the house. I don't think it was insulated (it is now, however). So.....my husband used a sander and got off all of the remaining old paint, and now we have a new coat of drywall over it. Stains are already showing through it, and the drywallers said it was from sap from the the pine boards up in the attic. Although I don't understand that because those boards are so old.....hard to imagine they're still seeping sap. Last night we were in a big box store (Menards in Indiana), and we got a sales person who actually was pretty good. He confirmed what you've said, and he recommended the Cover Stain also. He said it's much easier to work with (and cheaper) than the shellac-based BIN. That sounded good! After all, we don't need to cover up odors or smoke or anything like that.....just the stains. Thank you so much....without your help I'm sure we would just have bought the KILZ because that is the brand we are familiar with.

All respect due to Dave777 2009, but he is flat out wrong. Primer is required and mandatory for nearly all plastic type pipes joints under nearly all plumbing codes. In part, primer is required to remove any left-over wax applied to the pipe at the factory as it exits the extruding machines. It is this wax that allows the yet soft pipe to pass through these extrusion machines more easily. Without priming plastic pipes to remove the wax, no solvent weld can be appropriately made. That said, plastic solvent cemented pipes are not 'glued', they are 'solvent welded'. What this means is that the solvent literally 'melts' the plastic to form a plastic weld. There is normally no 'gluing' by way of any mastic at any place in the process at all. If the pipe is not properly cleaned by priming, no proper solvent weld will occur. Most plumbing codes, as mentioned, require primers because the listing standards for the pipe requires them. Under the IRC and IPC Plumbing Codes, primer is required for all CPVC (orange) and PVC (purple) pipe solvent welds. The color is only important to show the installer and inspectors that the joints have been properly primed, and that the proper primer has been applied to the proper pipe. (One cannot use CPVC primer on PVC pipe nor vice versa) Some types of solvent for some types of pipe are 'self-priming' (like those for ABS and certain types of PVC for pool and spa fittings...if I remember correctly). The bottom line remains, however, that priming plastic pipe is mandatory for most plastic pipe in most cases... not only from the Code perspective, but also from the manufacturer and 3rd party testing agency perspective that 'lists' the product and how it should be installed.