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Can I tint KILZ Primer? -- best product to cover...

bittersweetdreams

16 years ago

I've just purchased a home and am trying to get all my research done before I close so that I'm ready to go day one! The house was a repo and is FILTHY. The ceiling has a heavy texture and the dirt is literally hanging down from the textured ceiling. I'm going to have to go over it with a shop vac before doing anything. I'm going to need a VERY good primer to go over the ceilings and walls and the trim molding (after cleaning it down with TSP) but I'm wondering if I could get away with tinting something like KILZ with a Sherwin Williams color like Favorite Tan? I don't want to have to live with sterile white, white walls and I know I won't have the strength to repaint the walls with a 'pretty' color right after painting every single wall and ceiling in the whole house before we can even move in.

Is KILZ the best covering primer out there, or is there something better I should be going after? Some of the rooms were painted (I use that term loosely) over and over again, but just in blotches, and sometimes only 1/4 of a wall before they gave up. Whatever I use is going to have to have very very good covering power... And can I use it on the trim molding also, or do I need to use something different on that? Most of the moldings were painted with at the least a semi gloss, and very dark colors...

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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Comments (3)

Faron79
16 years ago
Hi "Bitter...",
You're showing very good promise by realizing that, in some cases, LOTSA P-I-T-A prep has to be done!

* Starting with a Shop-vac is very smart! Vacuum off EVERYTHING...ceiling, walls, trims, floors...
* This will obviously reduce dust getting back onto surfaces you're washing/rinsing.
* Next comes any ceiling & wall repairs. These usually require their own feather-sanding, but keep the shop-vac handy!
* TRIMS- This is where ya gotta get fussy! Slightly sand ALL glossy trims/doors with a 150-ish sanding-sponge or palm-sander. You don't need to "sand through" the exising paint, just give it a good, even scuffing SO PRIMER HAS A GOOD SURFACE TO CLING TO. This is prob'ly the most important step!
* PRIME EVERYTHING in your case! Poorly maintained homes need all the help they can get.

>>> Summarizing: 2 rounds of vacuuming...The initial cleanup; and "round 2" after wall/ceiling repairs, and trim-sanding.

>>> Finally!!! the priming phase...
* Premium Latexes are the best: C2-One, C2 WBP, Bullseye 123, Kilz 2, Kilz Premium, or the BM/SW top primers.
* You MAY need 2 FULL primecoats if your walls are real bad!! If the first coat seems to "disappear", use a 2nd coat.
* Pretend you're doing your last finish-coat when priming!
Your outer paintcoats are a reflection of what's underneath.
* Use top-notch roller-frames, roller-covers, and brushes. DON'T "cheap-out" on tools! I like the Purdy White-dove roller-covers.

Lastly...(no surprise!)...TWO FULL paintcoats!
Good Luck...and we expect pics!!

Faron
bittersweetdreams
Original Author
16 years ago
Bummer, I'm in Ohio, no C2 paint for me... Shoot, love the look of those colors. Is the Bullseye 123 the next best quality option for me? And lastly, is the primer I use on the wooden trim molding and the paneling, the same primer that I use on the drywall walls?
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Hi liketolearn! (I hope this isn't too late!) !!! Are you having the "orange-peel" texture sprayed on walls? If so...let it dry a DAY or more, then prime on top of this texture!!! 1) ONE coat of primer is all that's needed if rolling on!! >>> Sprayed primer could use two coats-depends on operator and equipment. >>> UNLESS you were covering black or navy! Then 2 ROLLED coats of primer would be warranted. >>> It's normal for new primer on drywall to look hazy. Then, do TWO topcoats of color...even if it's white paint. >>> Main reason?? NOBODY puts on an even 1st coat...doesn't happen. Also; one film of dried color isn't very thick OR durable. Two coats evens out color-depth and toughness. 2) Same primer for walls & ceilings is fine under your LIGHT colors. Don't let your sprayed primer get TOO thin! Drywall seams are very thirsty, and may need 2 sprayed coats. 3) Use med.-gray primer under your darker colors. "Pencil-lead" gray is appropriate...then TWO paint topcoats. Leave a 5-hr. drytime between dark coats too! The additional colorant slows drytime a lot. If you're using a color that's heavy on red or magenta colorant, a THIRD topcoat can't be ruled out!! >>> This gray primer is too strong under light colors...sorry! In your case, 2 primer colors are needed:-) Any ?'s...lemme know! Faron
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Yikes!!! Smoke, Cats, & wallpaper removal...Oh my!!!! Forget the Kilz!!! BIN-primer from Zinsser is the only choice here. * It's a Shellac-based primer in an alcohol base. * Lotsa apartment cleaners, etc. have to use this primer 'cuz it's the only thing that'll block cat urine, smoke, etc. * Fire-restoration contractors use it as well. * Apply 2 good coats. Yes...TSP all very well, then RINSE VERY WELL... 2 or 3 times...let dry. Ceiling-paint: Just buy a good top-line variety. * We've got C2's LOVO ceiling-paint, L8150 in our house...~$20/gal @ C2 dealers. * We also sell a ton of ACE-Royal ceiling-paint...$19.99/gal. Faron
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Sorry to tell you but you said alligatoring which usually is many layers of paint causes this also the paint peeling older houses usually have oil base many layers and you probably have to stick with oil when there are so many layer no matter what the prep latex will peel quickly no matter what prep you use go with oil primer then oil finish if you cannot afford that atleast go with oil finsh only and I hate to tell you no matter what they say one coat paints are worthless no matter what they say about the quality of the paint it will crack water under it and peel very quickly safe yourself alot of time and money in the long run and wassh chalk and dirt off house let dry then put two thin coats or three of all the same finish coat but what I did works fantastic on old house never fails cut some boiled linseed oil maybe 25% with gum turpintine only then take that solution and cut your oilbase paint 25% with that and then you should get about 20 good years out of your paint job please believe me Ive done it and am guided by men 80 to 90 years old that have done the same with 100%success im 57 I have done this 30 years ago and recently and the job still has has not peeled or came off and it was terrible before I preped and painted it good luck please do not try to save a couple dollars now that will cost you 100"s later in more paint and labor
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if the walls have been painted before, you don't need a primer unless you are covering up strongly different shades. Dark colors over light - a grey primer helps Light colors over dark - a white primer helps Other than that, unless you have extensive wall patches to cover, just paint.
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Faron79
16 years ago
"Bitter",
Yes, you can use the same Latex primer throughout...just buy a good one!
* Also, yes, 123 is a good choice. Remember, 2 primecoats may be necessary if walls are in tough shape.
* And, I never really answered your first question! You can tint primers, but only necessary for real deep colors.
* On a similiar tack, don't leave primers "unpainted" for more than 2 or 3 weeks. They get too dried out & brittle to hold paint well if you wait too long.
* If you have any dark colors planned, a medium-gray primer would be called for.
* C2 does things a little different...some dark colors have colored primers that are even darker than the topcoat(s)!!
* There are a couple C2 dealers in Chicago...!
* If your trim is gonna be white or pastel-colored, Cabinet-Coat by Insl-x is a good choice too.

Faron

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