If you can't find anyone who will order it for you in your area you might try online. I saw it on amazon.com. There are a couple different ones listed with different order numbers. I couldn't tell what the difference was. I think it can come in one of their pre-mixed colors, or you can buy the tintable base and have it tinted your own color, so maybe that's the difference. It can only be tinted light, pastel colors I read. I think some of those vendors on the Amazon site sold it in cans of 2. I just did cabinets, baseboard trim and a door in a bathroom and didn't even use a half of a gallon can. I think I paid about $40 for the gallon size. The store where I bought it locally also sold several other brands of paint. I picked an off-white paint chip from one of the other brands and they mixed it in the cabinet coat base. They had to tweak it though, (added about 2 1/2 times the normal amount of colorant) to get it the right color. It is a really nice finish, so I hope you can find it. Here's the amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/104-7194611-0182334?initialSearch=1&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=cabinet+coat

I just called General Finishes. They are EXTREMELY HELPFUL ! I had already purchased the Polyacrylic Water Based top coat and he told me that was incorrect. He said their are so many people posting on Pinterest/internet ect about this top coat so everyone keeps using it but they never meant for the gel stain to be used with the Polyacrylic top coat. He said it will work out fine but it is not the best top coat for gel stain on KITCHEN CABINETS. He explained that the 3 choices were the Endurovar, High Performance Clear and Arm R Seal. He explained the difference in such great detail that honestly I was still a bit confused. I then just asked which one he would use and he said if you have the patience to WAIT A LONG TIME for the top coats to dry then he would choose/likes the Arm R Seal the best. He stressed over and over again the importance of DRY TIME. He discussed how everyone is using the Java Gel Stain like PAINT applying very thick coats and said that if you don't wait approximately 48 hours between EVERY SINGLE COAT of the stain itself and then ONE FULL WEEK before applying the top coat you will not get the best results. He said not waiting says between coats may seem okay when using the gel stain but when you apply the top coats you may get a cloudy film. ( also said all woods are different and people prepare the wood in so many different ways that it is possible for some to report good results WITHOUT waiting the proper dry time but that wont happen for everyone so it is just best to be patient and wait out the dry times ESPECIALLY if you are essentially PAINTING on the gel stain. ) Also mentioned NO sanding in between gel stain coats but YES sanding lightly with 400 grit between top coats ( and of course no sanding the final top coat. I just bought the Arm R Seal as he recommended and we will see how it goes. Guess its a good thing it will take a week to get shipped here so I am FORCED to wait out the appropriate dry time before starting :) still would like to know what everyone has been using as their top coat on kitchen cabinets to reinforce my choice to use Arm-R-Seal.... still so worried about picking the wrong one.

Thank you everyone for all your advice and suggestions. I have read each and every one of your posts. thank you- First let me back this up by saying this: My cabinets were initially installed with a sprayed paint on them- a "Pittsburg" paint that my cabinet maker (yes he is old school!- fantastic builder and very nice to work with) had matched up to BM sImply White. Pittsburg is the paint he prefers to use over anything else b/c of it's commercial grade quality. We did not ask for a sample of how the actual color would look but we did however see what a sprayed cabinet looked like. Separately we saw what BM simply white looked like. I guess that's where the mistake was b/c even though it was color matched using a "formula" the cabinets casted a faint lime green tone. The kitchen looked like a "white kitchen" but when you held up real WHITE- you could see a huge difference. SO, without hesitation, our painter took our cabinets down and re primed and sprayed what he could and hand painted the other cabs which had the granite on it. Before he did the "2nd paint", he showed us the white we would be using and asked for approval. It looked white and much better than what was there, so we approved it for our cabinet builder to go ahead and re spray the cabs. Ok- 2nd install- cabinets go it, some look WHITE and others look really off. No consistency. NOT HAPPY!! That's when I wrote my first post on GW. SO, we had our cab guy here today and again, with a great attitude and willing to solve this "white" issue we are having, we decided to talk to the people at BM and do some more research and we are now testing BM Simply white in the ADVANCE. This came highly recommended by the BM people. Apparently the yellowing that you MIGHT see in an oil base is not for YEARS to come- and that's very slight. BUT the oil base paint is the best when it comes to preserving the cabinets from nicks and scratches and with white cabinets, you have to be very careful of that.So with all this being said, my husband and I just held up two painted SIMPLY WHITE BM boards. One on the corner upper and one next to it. BOTH the same white. The one on the curved cabinet is a different color than the one next to it- it has almost and icey bluish tint to it. NOW we think it may be the lighting. So, my husband just ran to Home Depot to get a different bulb for the ceiling light. We will try this before we have our cabinet guy take down everything and repaint!!! I just think white cabinets in our kitchen may just be very inconsistent. Go figure, we have a slew of big windows with natural light and a ton of high hats. this kitchen reno is just part of a huge reno on our house/ gutting and addition- that went smoooooth. The kitchen cabinet part is what's giving us a hard time. going on 5 months without a kitchen. UGH!

Good question. Maybe some pro painters can chime in. The size of the job and location are probably the biggest factors on cost. To provide some more information to the OP. There are 3 general types of paints used commonly for kitchen cabinet repaints. 1. Acrylic Enamel: SW Proclassic waterbore and the typical enamel paints 2. Waterborne Hybrid Alkyds: BM Advance, SW Proclassic Acrylic Alkyd, Behr has something similar and so does Valspar 3. Acrylic Urethane: Cabinet Coat 2. and 3. are probably better since they dry to a harder finish. With a brittle finish chips are more likely down the road. Production shops will likely use a Lacquer or Conversion Varnish. Of the two, CV is more durable, but more durable is more difficult to repair. Both come in solvent and WB versions, although most of the WB lacquers are actually acrylics instead of "lacquer." They are typically labeled, "for professional use only," and not sold to retail stores. Both can be formulated to meet KCMA standards. Shops use these because they dry so fast. 15-30 miniatures and a scuff sand and another coat. An entire kitchen can be done in one day in a controlled shop environment. More advanced finishing techniques like toner and glazes can also be done quickly. There are some small shops using items 1, 2, and 3. And there some painters that can handle the lacquer and CV. Confused? With good prep and a highly skilled painter, I think that any will yield excellent results. I hope this helps.