I agree w/prev poster, do a small single room first and see what shape your wall are in. Not worth stripping if you'll have to replace or skim coat anyways. Re stripping, here's what worked for me: Get on of these scrapers... http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE2-960411reg.jpg Get some FAST wallpaper remover (I like better than DIF)... http://www.cornerhardware.com/images/18/18151.jpg Mix the FAST w/hot water in a good heavy duty spray bottle. Mix it a little on the strong side. Let the spray penetrate for a few seconds, then scrape. When you have all the old wallpaper off, you can wash the walls with a mild FAST solution to get all the glue off. Then wash again with something like Dirtex... http://www.cornerhardware.com/images/20/20293.jpg Because of the paint you may have use a paper tiger to score the paint and wallpaper to allow solutions to penetrate... http://www.homeandbeyond.com/dynamic/prod-0074110-prod.jpg Or if it's real bad, maybe a rent a steamer.

I'm a pro painter and decorator and I've done a lot of wallpaper stripping in my time. Came acros this old thread and figured I'd give anyone reading this my pros and cons of both of the methods above! Hope it is useful to someone. Firstly, to review the "Dry then Wet" method which was apparently recommended by another pro. Disadvatanges: - unpredictable results - patchy in stubborn areas - can be slow as you are picking at small areas at a time - can damage wall with razor - no recourse if it doesn't work - can be messy - dust and powder can be created during the dry stripping phase - laborious - various different bits of equipment need to be tracked down before you can start - vinegar can have an unpleasant lingering odor The advantages of this method are: - can be cheaper if you already have some of the equipment - environmentally friendly - can be quick if you already have all the equipment Summary of method 1 I would say that this method is ideal if you are not in a hurry, and you already have the scraper, spray bottle, scoring tool, groundsheets, face mask...etc. It's not a bad method, certainly better than steaming I find. I guess it works well about half the time. So half the time you will then have to go back and keep working on the walls. Secondly, the Simple Strip / Wallwik Wallpaper Removal System. The idea is similar, basically, that you score the paper to get into the adhesive, then dissolve it. The difference is that you then aim to peel it all away in one go. Avantages: - everything you need is in one box - it has a safety scoring tool which is precise and I found once you get a feel for the pressure required, you don't risk damaging the wall - they include a solution specifically for the task and a powerful enough sprayer to help you apply it - they also include a scraper, although of course this is quite an easy item to pick up - all the equipement is reusable so if you are doing a whole house you can save money by just buying more solution and re-using the sheets etc. - it claims to be as environmentally friendly as washing up liquid, as the solution is biodegradable - pretty quick and clean Disadvantages - only available online - you have to guess what size kit you need but as I do this professionally, I constantly have a supply of the Pro Kits, which are a bit bigger. - you have to follow the instructions closely Summary of the Simple Strip method The more wallpaper you are removing, the more benefits there are of using simple strip. It's basically just a much better version of the first method, in that it is the same principles, and has all the bits and pieces included, but if it doesn't work you can get a refund haha!

Warm water and a sponge, but DON'T soak through your paper of the drywall. I use a scraper to sort of scrape/squeegee it off when it is good and emulsified. Once you get most of it off let it dry and then feel it with your hand. You can sand any rough patches of glue you may have missed lightly with a drywall pole. Skim coat any areas where the drywall skin was damaged or where you have imperfections with joint compound. Sand either wet or dry and then use Zinsser Gardz. It's very drippy, stinks and is a total pain but is the greatest at binding down any damaged drywall, sealing in the joint compound and will lock away any glue residue from your paint. Over the past 9 months, I've done three rooms and have finally got the technique down. Just finished a guest bedroom and you'd never know there was wallpaper on the walls.

Unfortunately, you'll have to do some skimming once ALL paper/glue is WELL-stripped/rinsed!! What I tell our customers... * Tearing/cutting/scraping into the sheetrock a little is FINE. At least you're eliminating any future problems from residual glue, etc.! * Once you're at the "Ugly sheetrock" stage, roll on a FULL COAT of Gardz primer from Zinsser. This is basically "clear glue". This will lock-down the exposed white Gypsum, and seal down loose face-paper edges. * If ya DON'T do this, those paper edges are almost guaranteed to lift when you're painting!!! * NOW....you have to do the light filling/skimming with sheetrock compound. Pay attention on this, 'cuz you're making your walls smooth & sexy again! * DUSTY. Cover the floor with a dropcloth to catch dust. * Now is the light sanding stage to feather-in your fills. I would use a sanding-screen here. A broader surface tends to sand flatter/smoother. * Vacuum/Sponge-off ALL DUST! You've GOT to have a fine-dusts bag in your Shop-Vac b4 doing this however!!!! * Give walls another wipe-down with damp sponge. Now you've got beautifully smooth, de-dusted walls, ready for a FULL COAT of regular interior primer. Use the best primer you can get. I'd choose Zinsser 123, C2-One, ACE Enamel-Undercoater, etc. PVA-class primers are "OK", but I'd prefer you use the better ones. Sorry...there IS only ONE way to do this RIGHT....! NOT sizing/priming walls for wallpaper should be illegal! Reason: Coming back from paper to painting - THE RIGHT WAY - is a B*tch, but if ya don't do these steps, SOMETHING will come back to bite you in the..... Faron