Welcome back Chloe! It's fun to hear updates...even if someone's having a little struggle. I would use a wider brush...preferably on the wider areas. * With a 1.5", you're stroking forever to cover the same area as a 3" would do in a half-dozen strokes. * Plus, all the loading-time is a drag on time too. * With a 3" or wider brush, the long, light "tipping-off" strokes tend to level a wider area better. * Think of trying to level a drywall mud seam with a 1.5" knife...wouldn't be very easy, fast, OR even! There is kind of a "delicate balance" of how thick the coats need to be! >>> Horizontal surfaces: The coats can be slightly thicker. >>> Vertical surface: Little trickier here. Coats usually have to be thinner; therefore 3 lighter coats are often warranted. I believe Michael has this view too. >>> Don't apply coats as thin as a "drybrush" layer. The product needs "the weight of itself" to level properly. If coat is too thin, no leveling will happen, and strokes will dry into the film too fast. >>> You could do a light sanding with a 220-grit sponge b4 a 3rd coat. >>> On my test boards, I used the C2 SAP Primer, waited a day, and sanded smooth b4 2 coats of CC a day apart. This was on crappy pallet boards! The "swail" of the graining-bands is still visible, but I can't detect any brushstrokes. >>> Decorative-detail areas. Yes, I'd use thinner coats here, and your 1.5" brush. It doesn't take much paint to "fill" a sharp edge & losing its definition! 60 seconds tends to be the "Red-alert" time! Then, get away 'till the next days' coat! Faron

Come on Gurus! I read that on a scale of 1 to 10, conventional alkyd yellowing would rate a 10 and latex a 2. Advance would be a 4. Do you agree? I also read that Cabinet-Coat has a natural green tint, so the White Dove I want would be different in the CC compared to Advance. Do you agree? Does CC also yellow over time? I went to a different BM store (drove to next town over) to ask these questions. The guy was nice, and honest - he didn't have a clue. What do you recommend???

Glad your project is going smoother. Painting cabinets is a bear of a job ;) Is it Ok to wrap the brush airtight between coats or do I need to wash my brush in between? Personally, I would not recommend this. It's not possible to get a completely airtight seal, and just little bits of dried paint on the bristles will cause the bristles to clump. And leave stroke marks. I clean my brushes after every use, just like I do my artist's brushes. They have rewarded me in return with a long life. Wash in warm water, gentle soap. If badly caked (shouldn't occur but sometimes I've set a brush down, gotten distracted, paint has begun to dry), I've used a baby's fingernail brush or metal brush comb (from paint stores) to 'comb' bristles to the end and remove any goobers. Rinse, rinse and rinse again. Place the base of the bristles between your index and middle fingers, squeeze fingers together and run down the bristles to the tip, squeezing out excess water and reshaping the brush. Letting it dry on it's side is best, so handle rests on sink but bristles are hanging over the edge, with no solid surface under them. (Never allow a brush to dry bristle end down.) A couple more tips: never let paint get into the ferell (the metal band that secures bristles to handle). Once that occurs, you can never fully get paint out of that area and bristles will dry in a spread out manner. If you keep the ferell clean, but bristles begin to lose shape, once you've washed/rinsed/squeezed out excess water, apply a light hair conditioner (or brush conditioner from art supply store), gently run through, then squeeze again from ferell to tips and when you get to the ends of the bristles pinch fingers together tightly so bristle tips are tight together. Set and let dry. This will help reset the bristles shape. (Be sure to rinse the conditioner out well and squeeze out excess water before next use.)

I just put 1 coat of the CC on the outside of my vanity doors (which have the same profile as my kitchen cabs). It again turned out very nice. I put the door in my kitchen and I'm actually liking the color- it's just ever so slightly too yellow. So now I'm wanting to have something in between the BM Linen white and the yellowed CC version of linen white. Hopefully this can be accomplished without too much trial and error. There are numbers on my can of CC- do these indicate the color make-up? I'm wondering if we can use those to determine a similar composition with a little less yellow. Incidentally, here are my doors, I did a combination of brush and foam roller. This is only 1 coat of primer and 1 coat of cabinet coat. At first they don't look all that great- but I just walk away. I come back 45 mins later and they leveled out and the color uniforms nicely. And a picture of the oranged out cabinets I'll be painting.